View Full Version : how do you shape your tips ?
xander
11th October 2009, 09:51 PM
ok so how do you guys shape your tips by that i mean wot tools do you use ?
checkSide
11th October 2009, 11:05 PM
A very sharp stanley knife or scalpel, and a piece of sandpaper.
xander
11th October 2009, 11:39 PM
Do you use a block for the sand paper ? Or just hold it in your hands
checkSide
11th October 2009, 11:48 PM
Do you use a block for the sand paper ? Or just hold it in your hands
Either is just as easy, although I prefer a block.... :)
Dan27
12th October 2009, 12:34 AM
I cut the sides down with a stanley knife then i shape the sides and top with sandpaper.
I never use a block as I feel I can get a more accurate dome shape without using one, just start from the middle of the tip and pull the sandpaper down and out towards the edge of the tip to get the dome shape.
xander
12th October 2009, 09:42 AM
thanks for all your help ill try both with and with out a block see how i get on :)
totlxtc
12th October 2009, 11:19 AM
Also try gluing a piece of sandpaper to the inside of a 15mm diameter plastic tube thats cut in half.
xander
12th October 2009, 11:28 AM
thats sounds like a good idea :) i'll try that
Terry Davidson
12th October 2009, 12:52 PM
Just two points people...when you use sandpaper on your tips there's a chance you may leave behind fine bits of glass from the sandpaper in your tip. The second point is, although I know most people do it, turning the cue upside down and trimming off excess tip with a very sharp blade there a chance (especially with layered tip like Talisman) that you will loosen the fibre of the tip.
I use a good metal ******* file and only stroke down on the tip towards the cue to take off the excess, then a much finer metal file to take it down to level with the ferrule, being careful of course not to hit the ferrule with the file.
For the final shaping, I use one of those metal nail files you can get in any department store or chemist that sell nail stuff, like Boots. They have a very fine side and the other is just a touch more coarse, but they do provide a nice shaping tool for doming the tip as they're quite flexible while still being a little rigid. It does take a little more work than sandpaper but the results, at least for me, are much better.
Lastly, I take any scratches out of the ferrule using either very fine emery cloth (600 or higher) or else a new dollar bill (pound note) which works almost as well and doesn't take the ferrule down very much at all.
Terry
Terry Davidson
12th October 2009, 12:54 PM
Hmmm...I see I got automatically edited on that last post. The file is called a B*A*S*T*A*R*etc file
Terry
xander
12th October 2009, 01:18 PM
thanks terry :)
i was reading the tipping guide on this site and it talks about a overhang (mushroom shape) tip does anyone have any photos of wot is ment by this?
inevermissblue
12th October 2009, 01:29 PM
Just two points people...when you use sandpaper on your tips there's a chance you may leave behind fine bits of glass from the sandpaper in your tip. The second point is, although I know most people do it, turning the cue upside down and trimming off excess tip with a very sharp blade there a chance (especially with layered tip like Talisman) that you will loosen the fibre of the tip.
I use a good metal ******* file and only stroke down on the tip towards the cue to take off the excess, then a much finer metal file to take it down to level with the ferrule, being careful of course not to hit the ferrule with the file.
For the final shaping, I use one of those metal nail files you can get in any department store or chemist that sell nail stuff, like Boots. They have a very fine side and the other is just a touch more coarse, but they do provide a nice shaping tool for doming the tip as they're quite flexible while still being a little rigid. It does take a little more work than sandpaper but the results, at least for me, are much better.
Lastly, I take any scratches out of the ferrule using either very fine emery cloth (600 or higher) or else a new dollar bill (pound note) which works almost as well and doesn't take the ferrule down very much at all.
Terry
Hi, Its not a good idea to use Sandpaper because of the previous advise given. Although a metal file isn't advised either, as it will take you far too long and will probably mark your ferrule. You could however use Wet and Dry paper, as this is very fine and will not leave sand particles in the tip when you shape it. As for trimming, i would always prefer to use a Stanley as its by far the best method. (when used correctly). :snooker: :snooker: :snooker:
Dan27
12th October 2009, 02:09 PM
Yeah I use wet and dry paper for the sanding as this doesn't leave any particles behind.
Also when trimming the tips sides so they're flush with the ferrule, I always turn the cue upside down so the tip is pressing down into a wooden cutting block, I make sure the stanley knife blade is sharp and whilst cutting the sides I make sure i'm pressing down on the cue, this way I've never experienced problems with layers or fibres coming loose.
As for a mushroom tip, it's just a fitted tip with no or little excess cut away, so the sides of the tip aren't flush with the sides of the ferrule.
Have a look at ADR147's tip guide on this forum, or the Mike Wooldridge one on his site and you won't go far wrong.
I think this thread proves lots of people fit new tips in slightly different ways, just experiment and when you're happy with the results, stick to which ever way suits you.
xander
12th October 2009, 02:20 PM
yer i think your right ill just take note to wot everyone has told me and find wot works for me best :)
totlxtc
12th October 2009, 02:27 PM
Using a scalpel is a better way to cut as the blade is sharper and thinner. But beware that your not too aggressive as ive had them ping everywhere and a 1 inch long scar of what happens when you slip. If you look for Swan 10a blades they are best. 10's have a curved end and are only good for surgery, 11's are simply too slim and the blade will snap. You can get them at any good stationery place.
Also try 3M 220 grit paper. Its what i use and its dam good stuff and wont break up on your tip. Pricey mind.
cat
13th October 2009, 04:39 AM
Also try gluing a piece of sandpaper to the inside of a 15mm diameter plastic tube thats cut in half.
Very good method.:)
bongo
13th October 2009, 07:10 AM
when you use sandpaper on your tips there's a chance you may leave behind fine bits of glass from the sandpaper in your tip.
I have heard of that reason before, but I still use sandpaper anyway! :D
Asi
13th October 2009, 10:33 AM
Using a scalpel is a better way to cut as the blade is sharper and thinner. But beware that your not too aggressive as ive had them ping everywhere and a 1 inch long scar of what happens when you slip. If you look for Swan 10a blades they are best. 10's have a curved end and are only good for surgery, 11's are simply too slim and the blade will snap. You can get them at any good stationery place.
Also try 3M 220 grit paper. Its what i use and its dam good stuff and wont break up on your tip. Pricey mind.
Speaking of blades/scalpels, Did you ever experience this really minor scratches on the ferrule after trimming the tip ? usually I mange to avoid it, but very occasionally it happens and its really annoying...Don't know what's the reason. Any idea why and how to remove this minor scratches? I've tried 0000 wire wool, it made the ferrule very flashy but underline the scratches.
Dan27
13th October 2009, 03:38 PM
To help prevent scratching the ferrule I usually stick on a piece of electricians tape the same width as the ferrule, I use electricians tape as it's not too sticky.
No idea how you can get really deep scratches out of the ferrule though, I just polish mine up with 00000 wire wool, but like you say, it won't get rid of the scratches.
cat
13th October 2009, 03:48 PM
To help prevent scratching the ferrule I usually stick on a piece of electricians tape the same width as the ferrule, I use electricians tape as it's not too sticky.
No idea how you can get really deep scratches out of the ferrule though, I just polish mine up with 00000 wire wool, but like you say, it won't get rid of the scratches.
same to U Dan27. I use "scotch" to protect the ferrule.
ADR147
14th October 2009, 09:19 PM
Using a scalpel is a better way to cut as the blade is sharper and thinner. But beware that your not too aggressive as ive had them ping everywhere and a 1 inch long scar of what happens when you slip. If you look for Swan 10a blades they are best. 10's have a curved end and are only good for surgery, 11's are simply too slim and the blade will snap. You can get them at any good stationery place.
Also try 3M 220 grit paper. Its what i use and its dam good stuff and wont break up on your tip. Pricey mind.
very good advice - you are turning into me dan!
MikeWooldridge
14th October 2009, 11:46 PM
ok so how do you guys shape your tips by that i mean wot tools do you use ?
watch this, for all the gimmicks and 'ideas', this is all you need to do:
http://www.handmadecues.com/info/30-retipping.htm
xander
15th October 2009, 09:41 AM
thanks mike
i just bought some of your tips of ebay as your site was down :)
Bigmeek
15th October 2009, 06:19 PM
Thanks to everyone for their comments. Very useful. I've just got a new cue and didn't know how to get the tip into a playable shape. Tried sandpaper, file etc but seems to take for ages. Many days of continuous use seems to work!!
57varieties
17th October 2009, 11:52 AM
see the ultimate tip gide by ADR147 on this forum
ste bed
17th October 2009, 01:02 PM
when i put on a new tip i will shape it roughly then play with it for about 10/15 frames to bed the tip in. then finaly shape it to how i like it doing it this way i have found that it keeps its shape better and you dont have to keep messing with it. just like to say i have just started playing with mike wooldridge's super tips the pressed ones best tips i have ever used by a country mile i would strongly recommend them to anyone
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.