Reserrect "rough" cue ?

[Rooster#1]

Hello, long story short... Ive had an old ash 2 piece for several years, and just come back into the game... but the shaft was quite rough (made my index finger red raw after a few frames) so a google around led me to wire wooling the varnish (?) off - I then used a sealer followed by beeswax, but its not getting any slippier ! Have I killed it ?

In the meantime my beloved decided to do me a favour, by popping to Argos and getting me a Riley 3 piece The shaft on this is as smooth as a babys wotsit - so how do the do it ? (please dont flame me coz of the riley... her heart was in it !)


Ive retipped the 3 piece with a blue diamond, and going to test drive it soon - but I feel unfaithfull the old 2 piece... can I get 'er going again ?

Thanks
Paul

[Wity]

The Riley's probably lacqured. Smooth enough till your hands get a bit sweaty then it'll be sticky.
When you got the finish off with wire wool on the old cue did you really get it all off? When I first did the same I thought I had but hadn't. Beeswax on lacquer gives it a shine that for me was the tell tale sign. Wire wool wasn't enough I had to sandpaper it down then wire wool it. I've done it a few times now with a number of cues and found sanding down the oldest took the golden colour out of it that age had given it. I knew then it was back down to the bare wood. Sanded it with different grades then grades of wire wool till it was as smooth as possible then followed Trevs1 advice and applied raw linseed oil overnight for a few nights wiping it down with tissue paper and lightly 0000 wirewooling in between coats. Do it like that and you should have a lovely dull smooth finish. Most will then beeswax it but thats optional.

[Rooster#1]

Terrified of using sandpaper on it !

So are you saying to use ONLY linseed oil ? and no wax etc ?
I've more or less written off the 2 piece, but I'm game to give it a whirl
Where do you source the oil ? Sure B&Q wouldnt know what it was

Thanks for the help...

[Wity]

Terrified of using sandpaper on it !

I guessed right then, you tickled it with wire wool and didn't remove all the varnish/lacquer Most people are wary to say the least about sanding their cue especially an expensive one but if it's not what you want it to be or you've felt better then it'll play on your mind and soon become an inferior cue, which you either sell scrap or prop up the tomatoes plants with.
Of course if you buy a really good cue that has that perfect finish there should never be any need to sand it unless it's got deepish dings that cant be lifted out which is a different process altogether, as long as it's "sealant" is replenished occasionally.
I'd say use a medium to fine coarse sandpaper initially then go finer and finer still. 20 mins tops of hand sanding should be more than enough to get it back to the base wood without removing so much wood it'd drastically alter the cues weight. Five minuites more with 0000 wire wool and it should be perfectly smooth. I'd only recommend you sanding the shaft itself though as you dont know what you'll find underneath many so called ebony butts which may be dyed or painted and if it's got veneers it'd be easy to sand too much off and actually go through what is by nature a very thin strip of wood anyway. Likewise splices of exotic woods will vary in density and sanding in the same stroke may cut up one wood with scratches but hardly touch another. Besides the finish on a butt silky glide wise is of no importance when cueing, best to play safe and leave the butt alone methinks If it really needs restoring let the experts do it.

Talking of experts, most of the top cuebuiders use the traditional raw linseed oil. To quote Trevor White in an earlier thread..

Hi,

Yes, raw oil has no driers in it and will not be as 'tacky' as boiled oil.
The driers in some oils are to aid its drying time, but with a cue, as it's something that gets handled, this leads to the driers being softened by the heat from your hands, making the shaft sticky.

Raw oil has no driers, and, although it'll take longer to 'dry' properly, will only leave the cue feeling slightly greasy. This can be minimised by constant polishing with a dry cloth.

The best thing is to oil the cue at night and leave till the following day, then polish off any excess with a dry cloth. Four to six coats over about a fortnight will help lots.

Good luck with it.

Follow that advice as i did and you cant go much wrong. There are other sealants that can be used search for the thread re tung oil for instance. Linseed oil may be long in drying but it's traditionally used and one bottle for about £3 will last you years (B+Q or any such hardware place stock it. or go to Ebay and search for Rustins Linseed oil for a pic at least).

You cant apply too much oil as the wood will only absorb so much so dont worry about how much to apply but 1 coat using a paper towel is really no more than a teaspoon full.

Lightly 0000 wire wool between each dried coat and rub down with a cotton or a paper towel and when done applying a wax polish is really optional. Trevor does not apparently as wax can get sticky especially in a hot climate but most do apply natural beeswax, again a traditional finish, buffed really well its fine and personally I love the smell of it. Kinda makes you think this is quality without even looking.

[Mellow Yellow]

I guessed right then, you tickled it with wire wool and didn't remove all the varnish/lacquer Most people are wary to say the least about sanding their cue especially an expensive one but if it's not what you want it to be or you've felt better then it'll play on your mind and soon become an inferior cue, which you either sell scrap or prop up the tomatoes plants with.
Of course if you buy a really good cue that has that perfect finish there should never be any need to sand it unless it's got deepish dings that cant be lifted out which is a different process altogether, as long as it's "sealant" is replenished occasionally.
I'd say use a medium to fine coarse sandpaper initially then go finer and finer still. 20 mins tops of hand sanding should be more than enough to get it back to the base wood without removing so much wood it'd drastically alter the cues weight. Five minuites more with 0000 wire wool and it should be perfectly smooth. I'd only recommend you sanding the shaft itself though as you dont know what you'll find underneath many so called ebony butts which may be dyed or painted and if it's got veneers it'd be easy to sand too much off and actually go through what is by nature a very thin strip of wood anyway. Likewise splices of exotic woods will vary in density and sanding in the same stroke may cut up one wood with scratches but hardly touch another. Besides the finish on a butt silky glide wise is of no importance when cueing, best to play safe and leave the butt alone methinks If it really needs restoring let the experts do it.

Talking of experts, most of the top cuebuiders use the traditional raw linseed oil. To quote Trevor White in an earlier thread..



Follow that advice as i did and you cant go much wrong. There are other sealants that can be used search for the thread re tung oil for instance. Linseed oil may be long in drying but it's traditionally used and one bottle for about £3 will last you years (B+Q or any such hardware place stock it. or go to Ebay and search for Rustins Linseed oil for a pic at least).

You cant apply too much oil as the wood will only absorb so much so dont worry about how much to apply but 1 coat using a paper towel is really no more than a teaspoon full.

Lightly 0000 wire wool between each dried coat and rub down with a cotton or a paper towel and when done applying a wax polish is really optional. Trevor does not apparently as wax can get sticky especially in a hot climate but most do apply natural beeswax, again a traditional finish, buffed really well its fine and personally I love the smell of it. Kinda makes you think this is quality without even looking.

sorry for the long quote:

this is what i have done and it totally transforms the feel of the cue 100% for the better.
I also applied beeswax, and although it does feel sticky at first, just give it a good buffing and it'll be perfect.

[Rooster#1]

Been doing the linseed oil thing this past week... and tried topping it off with some "Pledge beeswax" polish... and its still like rubbing a fence post over you hand ! ARRGGGGHHHH
Rubbed it down with glasspaper and wire wool - sure it was down to wood (the dust smelled of wood !) then 4 coats of the LO with a gentle wirewool inbetween. Each coat left overnight.
Am I wasting my time ? Is it possible the woods just rubbish ?

[Wity]

When you'd finished sanding but before applying the oil how did it feel them?

[BITTER]

Where do you live mate ?

We can find you a cue maker in your area between us

[Rooster#1]

When you'd finished sanding but before applying the oil how did it feel them?

It felt a LOT smoother than after the oil, but I suspect I didnt use fine enough glasspaper - we've all had a bug for the past couple of weeks, hopefully the quest will continue at weekend

Many, MANY thanks for the tips lads... keep em coming.