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Extreme Follow/Top spin cue ball strike point

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  • Extreme Follow/Top spin cue ball strike point

    I know it is a silly question, but here we go...I would like to ask the players on this forum that when you try to play extreme follow, with lots of power, is there really any noticable difference, in your opinion, to address the ball at the very top, or say 1/2 or even 1 tip below the top edge?

    I have been trying to understand this, since I could not really notice any difference whether I hit the super top edge, or about 1 tip below the edge. If I try to keep my cue very level, and follow through, I am pretty happy with what I can get on the white ball by strikeing about 1 tip below the top. I get much more accurate when I am not address the cue all at the very top.

    On the other hand, my friend told me the pros can address the cue ball much further away from the center than a regular player, and they can put more spin on the cue ball as a result of that. I am not sure if they get more spin because they address the ball further away--perhaps they just cue better?

    But is there really any noticable spin gain by hitting the cue ball at the very top?

    Is there any secret in playing very good and consistent top spin?

    Thank you.
    www.AuroraCues.com

  • #2
    The extreme basic (of learning any shot really):

    Aim where you intend to hit.
    Learn what will happen when you hit that spot.

    Good luck, I'm sure there are folks here who have the time to explain it better.

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    • #3
      When watching the pros on telly it seems they get lots of top spin effect just striking slightly above centre ball. So presumably you dont have to hit very high on the ball if you can cue as well as them.

      Personally i tend to play topspins about 3/4 of the way up on the white, which usually seems effective enough to me if the ball is well struck. Hitting any higher it isnt so easy to cue as you would almost and unecessarily be playing like you are bridging over another ball, adding uneccesary difficulty to the pot itself, and it could be risking miscueing.

      Maybe some of the better players on here could answer better though if it is woth cueing very high on the white and if it can make much difference....
      Last edited by dannyd0g; 28 February 2008, 01:43 PM.
      "You can shove your snooker up your jacksie 'cos I aint playing no more!" Alex Higgins.

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      • #4
        Thank you for the respond. Please let me explain my question better int he followings.
        As I siad before, I am comfortable hitting may be a bit higher than 3/4. Any higher than that I have really no confidence. Is it necessary to strike it really high on follow shot, as it is to strike very low on screw shots?
        One shot I think more top will make a big difference is the shot on the blue in the middle, either to break the pack out from the side and the bottom cushion, or to go into baulk, go around the baulk colors with a bit of running follow, and back down for the next shot. I guess the latter is referred to the banana shot sometiems, when the top really bends the cue ball.
        The banada curve seems to take off better if I do not hit the ball too hard, which tends to stun it off line right after impart; while the smoother hit will allow the curve to appear sooner. I do not think hitting any higher on the cue ball helps me to get a more curved path off the ball, but then it could be my cueing action problem.
        I have small hands, so to make a very high bridge is not that easy for me. I notice that I sometimes hit off center because my bridge is not sturdy enough when I try to hit high on the ball.
        So, just really want to know how high do you address the ball when you need some power follow.
        www.AuroraCues.com

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        • #5
          Looking at it from the 'physics' side of things. The cue-ball naturally has top-spin applied by the friction of the cloth. Playing with stun or screw is effectively countering this force. Presumably, therefore, it's not necessary to strike too far above centre to apply a good amount of top-spin, as you are only adding to the naturally occurring spin.

          When using very deep screw, the bridge-hand is there to stop the cue dipping under the curvature of the ball, and the mass of the ball, combined with the friction between cue-tip and ball, will hopefully prevent it from leaving the bed of the table. If the same amount of top is applied, there is nothing other than the weight of the cue to stop it from 'riding' up over the top of the cue-ball causing a mis-cue.

          I'm sure there are some real physicists who could calculate the optimum spot based on the relative masses of cue and ball, and the force applied. But I'm afraid that's a bit beyond me.

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          • #6
            I have read on a physics paper that the minimum spot to hit on the cue ball is 7/10 of the height of the ball in order to get a ball rolling. Thanks to David http://billiards.colostate.edu

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by myshoulderhurts View Post
              I have read on a physics paper that the minimum spot to hit on the cue ball is 7/10 of the height of the ball in order to get a ball rolling. Thanks to David http://billiards.colostate.edu
              Is that assuming zero friction from the cloth? I think everyone on this forum knows that it is not necessary to hit the ball that high to give it forward rotation. Momentum vs friction will soon make a ball roll rather than slide.

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              • #8
                Extreme follow up shots were my biggest problem. I often stuned the cue ball instead of following it. But that was all a result of bad cueing. The spot where you will hit the cue ball isn't that important (3/4 ball is fine). The more important thing is to continue with the cue forward after you hit the cue ball. This goes only for the more straightish shots.

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                • #9
                  If you cue back n forth smooth, this'll ensure you get effect out of the cueball. Bear in mind the fact that the cloth's are different and the balls too on a pro table. Aside from this, the pro's get right through the cue ball, which enable them to move the white a lot easier, rather than snatch at the shot.

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                  • #10
                    I have been practicing the follow shot like this: I will put the blue ball on the spot, shoot it from baulk with follow, and pot both cue ball and object ball. When I address the cue ball about 3/4, with a medium back swing (about half way back between the bridge and the cue ball) I usually get this about 3 or 4 in a row, then miss 1 or 2, then 3 or 4 again. Mind you, I do not practice this drill on a super tight pocket. The pocket is about 3.5" but the cushion cut is a bit less curvy.
                    However, when I try to raise the bright hand to put more follow on the cue ball, my cue would feel like it is going up and down. So, I tried to raise my back hand as well, and it just messes everything up.
                    If I do not raise my back hand, then it feels that I am cueing upward, and it is very awkward.
                    So, I usually only hit 3/4 on my follow. Anything above that, with power, is not consistnet.
                    www.AuroraCues.com

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                    • #11
                      Well the important thing to say it that it doesnt matter how hard you strike and the amout of follow through is not relevant when the shot lacks proper timing / acceleration... Sometimes I follow the furthest i can and still dont get the expected result but sometimes I apply a lot less power and a lot less follow through but due to a good timing i get much more screw / top effect.

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