How do you play a delicate stun run through?

[nrage]

I was practicing the other day and realised that I was avoiding playing any delicate stun run through shots around the black because my control of these shots is terrible. I either stun it completely, or run far to far through.

So, I set up an exercise to practice it, and experiment with a few methods of achieving the same thing, in order to find out what works for me, most consistently. I set up a short range, straight pot to the corner. Then, placed the yellow to the side of the object ball (90 degrees to the line of the shot) and then green, brown, etc.. in a line parallel to the line of the shot, heading toward the pocket (to give me some run through target distances).

I proceeded to attempt to stun in line with the yellow, stun then run to the green, then further to the brown, etc but I didn't progress past the green because while I could stun completely for the yellow fairly consistently, I could not land in line with the green more than 1 time out of 7 or more.

So, how would you guys play this shot?

What height do you strike the ball (using Nic B's height system from 1-10 where 1 is as low as possible and 5 is center ball)?

Do you then vary the height for more run through? Or vary the power?

I tried it 2 ways..
1/ Attempting to vary the height for more/less stun with a constant power, and affect the run through that way.
2/ With a consistent height (either 4, just below or 6, just above center ball) and vary the power.

Neither really produced very consistent results for me, but I think the 2nd, striking at height 4 with varied power worked the 'best'.

[Deepscrew]

I prefer to hit in the 6 position and play it on the harder side, rather than the 7 or 8 and gently push it through personally.

Striking at position 4 isnt going to run through at all is it? Thats just stun so will stop the white dead....

[nrage]

I prefer to hit in the 6 position and play it on the harder side, rather than the 7 or 8 and gently push it through personally.

I'll give this one another go, I did think at the time it should be the most forgiving as you know it will definitely be sliding/stunned with enough power, and position 6 means it should have a slight amount of forward spin to cause the run through.

I did find that if I struck it slightly too high, I would run through a ridiculous amount tho

Striking at position 4 isnt going to run through at all is it? Thats just stun so will stop the white dead....

It all depends on the power. With position 4 I was playing it as a drag shot, so the stun wears off before contact and it ends up rolling slowly into the object ball and then running thru. At least, that was the theory and it seemed to be working, albeit inconsistently.

[Deepscrew]

Its a difficult one i agree, if only due to a small variance in power will result in vastly different outcomes.

I was always hit above 5, even if only fractionly, when wanting to run the ball through. Would never consider hitting position 4 no matter what power on a run through shot.

[nrage]

Its a difficult one i agree, if only due to a small variance in power will result in vastly different outcomes.

I was always hit above 5, even if only fractionly, when wanting to run the ball through. Would never consider hitting position 4 no matter what power on a run through shot.

Ok, next time I give it a go I'll concentrate on the 5-6 height range and see how I go.

[checkSide]

Take a look at this diagram.
What you are trying to achieve is the balls to contact each other just as the cue ball stops sliding, and forward momentum is just starting to take over. This can be achieved with varying amounts of power and striking points.

It can be difficult to judge over very short distances as wherever you hit the cue ball (1-10), it will start out sliding (stunning) before any roll takes affect.

Cheers

PJ_draw_drag.jpg

[nrage]

Take a look at this diagram.
What you are trying to achieve is the balls to contact each other just as the cue ball stops sliding, and forward momentum is just starting to take over. This can be achieved with varying amounts of power and striking points.

It can be difficult to judge over very short distances as wherever you hit the cue ball (1-10), it will start out sliding (stunning) before any roll takes affect.

My exercise uses positions 3, 4, 5 of your image, plus 2 more further along all as targets for follow. I was not working on any draw shots just stop shot (yellow ball in my example) and various lengths of follow (green, brown, etc..)

I understand the various different ways of achieving it, and tried them all (I think). My Q is, which do you personally use that works consistently well for you?

I'm basically trying to figure out the most effective, or most consistent.. or rather the "easiest" way to achieve the various lengths of follow so I can focus on practicing that. Now, it might be that you use different techniques for different distances between white-object, or object and target white position - I don't know, that's why I'm asking

[checkSide]

I'm basically trying to figure out the most effective, or most consistent.. or rather the "easiest" way to achieve the various lengths of follow so I can focus on practicing that. Now, it might be that you use different techniques for different distances between white-object, or object and target white position - I don't know, that's why I'm asking

Hello mate.

For distances of around 3 feet and under between the balls, I strike above centre (6-10). This allows the roll you need to develop before contact. The closer the balls are together the higher up the cue ball you will need to strike to develop the same amount of run.
For mid-distance shots I strike centre ball (4-5). Power of the strike will dictate whether you get a dead stun or varying amounts of follow.
For stun runs from baulk I strike as if playing a screw shot (1 or 2). Once again the power of the strike will determine everything from screw to follow after impact.

I notice you want the "easiest" way to play the shot, so the advantage of what I've described is that you play the shot as softly as possible. The further you strike away from the centre of the cue ball, the softer you will have to strike to achieve the same effect.

You can play a stun run from any distance simply striking centre ball . But you will have to crush the cue ball if playing long distance. Instead you lower your striking position and play softly.

Conversely for close distances you strike further up the cue ball, so once again, you can play softly.

I hope this helps and I'm not just stating the obvious.

Cheers

[nrage]

I hope this helps and I'm not just stating the obvious.

Not at all, it's exactly what I was after, thanks

I understand the physics involved so I was experimenting with the various ways of achieving the same thing, but to be honest my ability on the table is not up to the task of consistently doing what I plan to do, so I was not getting the results I wanted/expected. Interestingly playing a long distance stun run though is easier for me than the short range ones, because for the long range one I just hit as low and as hard as I can accurately manage, and it either works or runs too far (because I lacked the cue power). That's a much easier task for me than judging the short range ones, at present.

The point of this thread was really to either confirm or deny what I think is the correct way to go about this, or to get new ideas that I haven't even thought of - like the idea of generally trying to find the softest way to play the same shot, and I think you're likely correct that it's going to be the "easiest" way to achieve the desired result in most/all situations.

So, thanks again for that!