How to weight a one piece cue?

[Stick]

Any practical tips on how to weight a one piece cue?

I have built a basic cue lathe and have been playing around with splicing and making my first cue. Will soon be fitting the ferule using the lathe, but i am not sure how to go about adding weight to the cue.

How is it done, what type of weight is used, is it glued or screwed in, how far must the hole be drilled, etc. As you can see i am pretty clueless and will appreciate some pointers if anyone would be kind enough to share.

Dont ask for a pic if of the cue - not yet of any type of standard worth bragging about

[RogiBear]

Any practical tips on how to weight a one piece cue?

I have built a basic cue lathe and have been playing around with splicing and making my first cue. Will soon be fitting the ferule using the lathe, but i am not sure how to go about adding weight to the cue.

How is it done, what type of weight is used, is it glued or screwed in, how far must the hole be drilled, etc. As you can see i am pretty clueless and will appreciate some pointers if anyone would be kind enough to share.

Dont ask for a pic if of the cue - not yet of any type of standard worth bragging about

Hole depth depends on the starting weight and the final weight you're wanting to achieve. Also depends on the material you're using for weighting. Lead is traditionally used, but tbh there are quite a few other options.

[bigandyg]

If you want a laugh this is how I did it years ago, first feed the dog then wash the tin can and with a pair of pliers shape a spout on the can. Drill a hole in the butt of the cue slowly and keep removing the waste to prevent the butt bursting. Buy a wooden dowell from any of the DIY stores the same size as the hole you drilled. Cut some lead waste and put it in the can and then melt it with a blowlamp or camping stove. When the lead is melted pour a small amount into the butt. Do this in stages a small amount at a time and let each amount of lead cool, if you put too much in it can melt the glue on the splices. Leave plenty of room for the wooden plug which you may need to rub down slightly to fit including the glue, make sure the plug is tight to the lead. Or you can use the same drill and drill into scrap wood and pour molten lead in and make your own complete weights. Last step walk the dog.

[sberry]

bit complicated that, I just poured some evostik down the hole, then lead shot to desired weight from the fishing tackle box and banged them down with a screwdriver and topped off with plastic wood, sanded it down and stuck a leather patch on it, nobody ever knew...

[Stick]

If you want a laugh this is how I did it years ago, first feed the dog then wash the tin can and with a pair of pliers shape a spout on the can. Drill a hole in the butt of the cue slowly and keep removing the waste to prevent the butt bursting. Buy a wooden dowell from any of the DIY stores the same size as the hole you drilled. Cut some lead waste and put it in the can and then melt it with a blowlamp or camping stove. When the lead is melted pour a small amount into the butt. Do this in stages a small amount at a time and let each amount of lead cool, if you put too much in it can melt the glue on the splices. Leave plenty of room for the wooden plug which you may need to rub down slightly to fit including the glue, make sure the plug is tight to the lead. Or you can use the same drill and drill into scrap wood and pour molten lead in and make your own complete weights. Last step walk the dog.

Hey, it is a practical DIY and that is what i wanted to hear, thanks.

My idea was to take A threaded bolt, or a iron bolt and glue it in, but it would probably be a disaster

I also still have to figure out how to drill straight over that distance. Probably have to set up some sort of jig for the hand drill.

A difficult story this, but good fun nevertheless

[Stick]

bit complicated that, I just poured some evostik down the hole, then lead shot to desired weight from the fishing tackle box and banged them down with a screwdriver and topped off with plastic wood, sanded it down and stuck a leather patch on it, nobody ever knew...

I take it Evostik is some kind of epoxy?

Plastic wood - is it better to use than a dowel? Dont think i have ever come accross it.

[sberry]

yes, evostik is just an epoxy glue which I decided would hold the lead shot together at the bottom of the hole and plastic wood is like glue that sets like wood http://www.amazon.co.uk/RawlPlug-Pla.../dp/B003O2DGZC

it worked fine and gave me a super heavy cue which I wanted because I read jimmy white and a couple of others used heavy cues, then I went back to my 16oz old cue

we shouldn't change cues though and should find one when we start playing the game that suits us and stick to it

[golferson123]

dont use steel bolts.you will never be able to drill them back out.

[Stick]

Cue i made is 14.76 ounces and i want to take it up to 16.5 as i also prefer a light and whippy cue.

Funny thing is i picked up my old warped Dufferin cue a few months ago just to take a few pots. I grew up playing with that cue and suddenly i was potting middle pocket shots as if it was the easiest thing in the world. It went into my case and i played the rest of the season with it. It is cheap and nasty, but it works for me.

Thanks Golferson - i did not think of that

[Maverick54]

Dont forget this will only add weight to the end of the butt unless you are planning on long hole boring. Balance points have to be taken into account when your not just doing it for fun.

[Stick]

Dont forget this will only add weight to the end of the butt unless you are planning on long hole boring. Balance points have to be taken into account when your not just doing it for fun.

I will try and drill it up a reasonable distance - will see how it goes

[vmax4steve]

A good way to avoid having to drill too far up the butt is to split the shaft before shaping and splicing on the butt, about a foot from the butt end.
Drill up the end of each piece about three inches or so but add about an ounce of lead to the longer shaft piece and then join and glue the two pieces back together again using a length of wooden dowell.
Then make the cue as normal.
When finished you won't have to drill so far up the butt to add weight to get the balance right as an ounce of weight has already been added round about the twelve inch mark, ensuring the cue is not weight biased too much on the butt end.

Or you could do the same but join the two pieces back together using a length of threaded steel bar to add that extra weight around the twelve inch point.

[Stick]

I have another attempt at a cue where i approached it as a two piece. Will use that to experiment with weighing as you describe.

Thanks