Ididot Guide to cues etc

[blahblah01]

Is there a readable link to all things technical re cues?

I think that I have a little knowledge, which yes is dangerous, about such things: so if people can answer the questions below etc, I'll try and collate them into something easy to read, and give it a more deserving title in a new\clean thread.

Also feel free to chuck in other questions....

Maple vs Ash: is this purely visual, or is Maple inherently more flexible or stiffer? Does one provide more\less feel?

Stiff vs Flexible Shafts: Stiff is more reliable than Flexible when hitting centre ball, but it is more difficult to put side\spin on CB and deflection\throw is more than with flexible. Flexible is more prone to unintended side\spin? So stiff helps with long game and flexible when in the balls?

I read some "wise owl" saying that get the stiffest cue that you can work the cue ball with: is that as good advice as it seems to be?

Is there more feel from Flexible than Stiff?

Tip Size: too small and the CB goes all over the place and too big, and spin\side is difficult to impart? So 9.4-9.7mm is a happy range?

Soft\hard tip: Soft means more spin and feel than hard, but go too soft and too much spin etc so less reliable, especially on long pots?

Balance Point: I'm clueless about the differences\benefits\costs.

Chalk: Finer is always better, if it sticks to the tip (hence why we don't use bags of Talcum Powder)? I assume that grittier means a less consistent\reliable contact with the CB.... So which is the finest?

[jonny66]

I think maple is stiffer. I f the balance point is too far back it makes the cue feel heavier in your hand which can lead to over hitting shots or deceleration trying not to over hit shots, but it's personal preference really. I think 17 is the magic number.

[thai_son22]

Ash Vs maple. Maple is considered firmer on hit but request what kind of shaft you want in stiffness/flexibility. Both shafts are good enough to play all the shots required

Stiff Vs flexible. Generally a stiff shaft is what people go for but too stiff may take away from the playability of the cue. I think alittle bit of flex in the shaft is good for the cue for playing shots with spin.

Tip size. Larger tips can cover the surface area of the cue ball more easily so it is easier to strike centre ball. Larger tips generally throw/deflect the cue ball when playing with side. A tip size too small and it is difficult to play centre striking and easier to impart side. I'd say anywhere between 9.5 to 10mm is fine. If you have trouble generating spin, it's more a technique issue then a tip size issue.

Hard Vs top tips. This is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't say there is a "Bible" so to speak. Experiment with hard and soft and see which you like. I found when playing long shots when the tip is too soft, the cue balls drags. Comparatively with hard tips there is less drag but also less spin imparted.

Balance point. Anywhere between 16-18 should be fine I would think. You want a slightly forward balanced cue as when you push through, the weight of the cue is also aiding and doing the work.

Chalk. I'm not sure about. I just use the standard triangle chalk. Never had issues with it and don't feel the need to experiment. I do use pressed tips so find I can get enough chalk on my tips.

[blahblah01]

Thanks for the answers, keep them coming....

Hard Vs top tips. This is a matter of opinion. I wouldn't say there is a "Bible" so to speak. Experiment with hard and soft and see which you like. I found when playing long shots when the tip is too soft, the cue balls drags. Comparatively with hard tips there is less drag but also less spin imparted.

Chalk. I'm not sure about. I just use the standard triangle chalk. Never had issues with it and don't feel the need to experiment. I do use pressed tips so find I can get enough chalk on my tips.

What do you mean by "drag"?

I suppose I should add a question about:

Tips: Benefits\cost of Pressed vs Laminate?

[vmax4steve]

Ash v Maple or Pearwood or Beech or Sycamore or Elm or Oak or Chestnut or even Graphite and Aluminium, you take your choice as each can be different or relatively the same.

Tip size for snooker is about 10mm, they all start off a certain size but once the ferrule has been fitted there is always a bit more sanding to be done so the ferrule inevitably gets a tad thinner, say from 10mm when fitted to 9.7 when final sanding is over. The thickness of the ferrules' sidewalls will add or subtract to deflection issues as will what the ferrule is made of.
Tip shape is important, domed for greater contact area when striking off centre with a small flat on the top for striking dead centre is the norm, and it's the norm because it's evolved to be.

Hard or soft tips is a matter of mating the tip to the shaft; the more flexible the shaft then the harder the tip would be my mantra as one will counter the other to produce a happy medium.

The natural balance point of a cue should be roughly at the tip of the splices. A pure timber one piece cue balanced at this point would be very light though, around 14 oz's, so weight is added to give the cue more substance. Where the weight/s are placed in the butt can be used to alter the natural balance point; move the balance point forward of the tip of the splices and you can have a light cue of around 16 oz's that feels heavier and the opposite is true if the balance point is moved to the rear of the tip of the splices.
Again the choice is down to the individual and the feel that he's used to and wants or maybe thinks to change.

As for chalk then go for Triangle or Master but light colours only. I use Master natural grey as it contains no dye so less sticks to the cue ball. Seeing as it's the same colour of the leather tip you need to chalk everytime as you can't see it, just a light wipe is all that's needed.

[Hello, Mr Big Shot]

Only two woods are generally used in cue sports. Go figure.

Pick the one you like and forget the others.

[mattyshinobi22]

Check out mike wooldridge site. Top info on there

[Ninja.cues]

Only two woods are generally used in cue sports. Go figure.

Pick the one you like and forget the others.

Now it has come to that on whole but things are starting to change again as more makers are starting to see how some of the other timbers that use to be used play.

I have had an oak cue I sold to a friend and had a Hawthorn one myself but never got it back from an ex!

[blahblah01]

Thanks for the above, all interesting stuff. As above, I will try and collate it all into an easy to read piece for people...

Hard or soft tips is a matter of mating the tip to the shaft; the more flexible the shaft then the harder the tip would be my mantra as one will counter the other to produce a happy medium.

This "marrying" idea does seem more sensible than trying for medium and medium, as that sort of thing is difficult to get and maintain? Then it is a matter of which way to go.

I'm erring on the side of going stiff(er) with soft tip (and\or maybe MW Blackspin) and a low(ish) Balance Point. The Balance Point is the most interesting info above, as I assume heavier with a low balance won't feel as heavy, yet still have power?

Have many of you gone the other way with Flexible and hard tip? If so, why?

Also if anyone has gone extreme ie hard and stiff, or soft and flexible, why? And how does it play?

(The innuendo potential is so huge, that it is beneath me.)

[Ninja.cues]

Oh wait for the innuendo train as I'm sure it'll be coming anytime soon lol

[blahblah01]

Oh wait for the innuendo train as I'm sure it'll be coming anytime soon lol

Just beware the dreaded autocorrect when searching for tip clamps; and yes I know that in the porn industry wood is\was the slang for an erection....

[blahblah01]

A quick update before I collate, and ask more daft questions.

I have one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MASTER-CUE...p2047675.l2557 (not sure where that price tag here comes form, but hey ho). I've been back here http://www.craftsmancues.com/index.html today, where I bought it. (Iam in Greater Manchester and kinda needed to go to Leeds...)

I thought my cue was whippy, but in the last week I have tightened my (very loose) grip, and having hit with a few cues there, realised that my cue is quite stiff. I hit with a few (relatively expensive) maples, but got no feel back; and only found one Ash with anything like the feel\responsiveness that I have. (My one is a lil under 18.5 oz and 9.7mm tip fwiw).

Dave is brill, and put a wax finish on my one, which I really like\prefer to how it was. Do Master put a heavier\varnishier oil on their cues?

[philthoms]

It must be a benefit knowing the balance point of your cue (and other specifications) in case it is stolen or damaged. My cue was stolen but I had fortunately recorded the specs and was able to find another similar cue without my game being affected too much.