How to take care my maple cue?

[pottr]

Haha, yeah. All the gear indeed.

It happens everywhere, new rest heads and old. The plastic ones don't but they are pants.

[blahblah01]

I can just see it, walking into a club with a fancy 1pc leather case, a ali case of 1g TCs, and a can of Brasso

Well not as daft as taking his own rest?

[matthias]

I have cleaned my rest heads with everything you could possibly imagine.

It's everywhere I play unless the rests are plastic which means you have to put up with ****e rests

I did compose a thread on it a while back called 'rest head problems'. I didn't get a decent answer to be honest.

hi pottr, I think you could try this stuff,

https://restorationproduct.com/shop/renaissance-wax/

it leaves a very hard finish in minutes, it does what it says on the info page, so the rest head should not stain your cue any more.

matt

[DeanH]

could it be used by those who don't want their bright brass ferrules oxidising?
:wink:

[matthias]

How to take care my maple cue?

yes
you can basically put it on everything, that needs a protective layer.

[sharkster63]

there is only one important thing about any cue, for me it is no varnish or laquer is to be on the shaft playing area, i use a 800 grit before every use until it is wood only. I dont like to use a glove and like my cue to slide freely. once only wook remaining, clean with a little clear windex or alcool on rag and wipe it down to remove any grease or oil that accumulates, I never put oil on my cues dont like that either. Cheers

[Shockerz]

there is only one important thing about any cue, for me it is no varnish or laquer is to be on the shaft playing area, i use a 800 grit before every use until it is wood only. I dont like to use a glove and like my cue to slide freely. once only wook remaining, clean with a little clear windex or alcool on rag and wipe it down to remove any grease or oil that accumulates, I never put oil on my cues dont like that either. Cheers

Not sure if I read your post right so was just curious.

On your cues you don't have any varnish, lacquer or oils of any description, just bare untreated wood (I may have read this wrong hence the post)?

Before every time you play, you run some 800 grit paper over the shaft?

As I said, not sure if I've read it right. To me, if that's the case he cue has no protection at all from humidity, temperature and water ingress.

800 grit is still not a polishing paper so it would take a fine amount of wood off each time it is used; we had this debate a while back when discussing 0000 grit steel wool as it took about 5 years to wreck a shaft through thinning the wood at the tip area.

I was just curious as it looked like you play with a bare shaft.

[Ninja.cues]

Not sure if I read your post right so was just curious.

On your cues you don't have any varnish, lacquer or oils of any description, just bare untreated wood (I may have read this wrong hence the post)?

Before every time you play, you run some 800 grit paper over the shaft?

As I said, not sure if I've read it right. To me, if that's the case he cue has no protection at all from humidity, temperature and water ingress.

800 grit is still not a polishing paper so it would take a fine amount of wood off each time it is used; we had this debate a while back when discussing 0000 grit steel wool as it took about 5 years to wreck a shaft through thinning the wood at the tip area.

I was just curious as it looked like you play with a bare shaft.

That's what I read...

[blahblah01]

Cleaned with a bit of Whisk(e)y? lol

[sharkster63]

Good Day, I have no varnish or laquer on my shaft. I know that it is not protected but that is what I like to play with, I have never had a cue warp on me yet. Knock on wood... I dont sand with 800 grit before every use, just until all the varnish and laquer is gone. If this is on your shaft, all the oil in the world will not penetrate. It plays well with no varnish or laquer. I take the chance and it never failed yet, I buy quality cues, I expect the wood as been treated with anti warp and aged for long periods of time and is very stable.

[sharkster63]

Cleaned with a bit of Whisk(e)y? lol

That would work better than water.... But if you have varnish or laquer on your cue buy a glove..

[vmax]

Good Day, I have no varnish or laquer on my shaft. I know that it is not protected but that is what I like to play with, I have never had a cue warp on me yet. Knock on wood... I dont sand with 800 grit before every use, just until all the varnish and laquer is gone. If this is on your shaft, all the oil in the world will not penetrate. It plays well with no varnish or laquer. I take the chance and it never failed yet, I buy quality cues, I expect the wood as been treated with anti warp and aged for long periods of time and is very stable.

If a timber shaft is bare and dry it will absorb moisture from the atmosphere, too much and it will warp, the same applies if it's bare and green and the moisture within it evaporates. This is why top cue makers age their shafts and then treat them with oil and why mass produced cheap ones are not aged so are laquered.
I have never heard of 'anti warp' as a treatment product, only as a process of manufacture as timber must be sealed to prevent moisture absorption and evaporation as all timber is porus to a degree.
If you buy cues that are varnished or laquered then they are not the quality items you suggest them to be, a top quality cue that has a well applied oil finish would be practically indistinguishable in feel from bare timber, only the colour would give it away.

It's the hands that get sticky with sweat and a bare shaft will absorb the sweat and get dirty, an oiled shaft won't, neither will a laquered shaft but the laquered one will have 100% more friction, do something about the hands before sanding away at the shaft of your cue, a cue glove is the perfect solution, don't worry about what you look like, worry about how it feels.

[sharkster63]

Vmax, I agree that there is a chance that if the cue is exposed to humidity or sunlight or high heat the wood could warp, but just normal conditions do not cause a shaft "will warp" I buy the best cues and all makers use some kind of finish on there cue shafts, I dont like any of them. I am sure that this might not be the safest tequnique but for me it is the best. Cheers