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Thread: Cut Break 8 Ball Pool

  1. #11
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    May 2016

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    You'd be surprised, with good fundamentals and timing you'll control the cue ball. If the cue ball goes wild after the break then it's either been kicked around by another ball, or you aren't hitting the pack flush. One of them you can't help and the other is down to you, so it's important to pay attention to what is happening.

    Like I said before, I don't think a separate break cue is necessary if you use the cut break exclusively. For me a lot of it is about spinning the cue ball into the pack after the initial contact, and I'm not hitting the cue ball hard enough for me to worry about my tip, which is one of the main reasons for having a break cue in the first place. I went through far more tips on my playing cue before I got my break cue.

    I'll always advocate lighter over heavier cues for breaking. It's a false economy. I won't go into all the physics behind it (yes, I really have spent that much time researching such things), but given the the finite space you're working with in terms of the distance between you and the cue ball on the break, a heavier cue can't be accelerated as quickly which results in a net decrease in overall force generated. By comparison, the acceleration you can create with a lighter cue results in a net increase in force generated overall. If you could generate the same maximum acceleration with a 20oz cue as you could a 14oz cue then the 20oz cue would win; however, I've yet to meet someone who can.

    With regards to the cues themselves, I personally have a Jason Owen breaker and I love it. I got mine a couple of years ago before the prices went up a bit, but you have to remember you're paying for a handmade cue which is going to take at least 4 months to make (might be longer now, given how Jason is on the rise as a maker) with good materials. That is going to cost unfortunately. I'd avoid Woods like the plague frankly. I've worked on a few of their cues now and I'm really not impressed with the quality overall, plus there are a plethora of horror stories on this forum about them. From what I've been told, the Peradon cues are actually really good for the money, and if I were going to go for a production model I'd probably get one of theirs. I think Cue Craft may also do one, I seem to remember seeing a few on the Green Baize site a little while back.

    If you've got any questions, please feel free to ask, always happy to help!

  2. #12
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    Aug 2009
    This is rdsalt's Country Flag

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    Thanks, I'll look into the Peradon one again, and see if there are any Jason Owen used ones for sale. It's obviously something that works for some and not for others as you do see quite a few used breaking cues for sale. I wasn't sure if Jason was taking a leaf out of John Parris's book and giving the pool pro's freebies to use to generate sales.

  3. #13
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    I do see them every now and then at pretty decent prices. A few other makers now do their own break cues now, and depending how much you're willing to push the budget, you can get a nice cue for a good price.

    I think the Peradon is a fine choice for figuring out whether you want a break cue or not. I spent a lot of time playing 9 ball so I always knew I'd end up with a break cue one day, it just gives me a peace of mind which I find invaluable. I think the Peradons come with an Elk Pro fitted, so you might want to get it changed at some point before you make a final decision. Personally I think Elks (even the Pros) are too soft to be an effective break tip. While I remember, I've heard some good things about Tiger Cues break cues as well, though I can't remember how much they are at the moment. I think a few pros are using those as well.

    Haha, yeah I get that. I don't think Jason is operating anywhere near a big enough operation to be doing that sort of thing. Plus there's not as much money to be made in pool as snooker.

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