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Thread: Cut Break 8 Ball Pool

  1. #1
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    Default Cut Break 8 Ball Pool

    I know everyone is different but looking for a bit of advice. Always struggled with my break, and it's a big disadvantage if you can't regularly pot of the break when your opponent can. We play a singles league and have had nights where I haven't potted a single ball off my 5 breaks, I know it can be down to the table and the set up of the balls but I do try to get the rack tight. Have recently gone to the cut break and find I get a more consistent split and am potting more often off the break although I'm still not fantastic. My biggest problem now is that every few frames when I break the white bounces off the table, is this just down to hitting it too hard, or am I cueing at the wrong part of the white, or aiming at the wrong area of the pack? I basically try to hit as much of the second ball down as possible with a bit of stun on the cue ball.

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    I used to have the same problem not potting off the break so perfected screwing back to the bottom cushion.

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    I base my break on this Gareth Potts video, hope it helps. Make sure you cue right through the ball for power. Aim for the white ball to be left in the centre of the table. Good luck

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Jo_WQrPc1Q
    Last edited by jamesg19851; 28th February 2018 at 02:07 PM.

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    Thanks, I've seen this before and that was what I tried to do before trying the cut break. My break maybe looked worse than it was as we have some big lads in our league and they absolutely crush the break and pot almost every time and more often than not its more than one ball. Changed to the cut break and had my first night ever that I potted off each of my 5 breaks, but still have this problem of losing the cue ball off the table every now and then. It must be my technique as you watch the tour streaming and they can cut break all day long without the cue ball leaving the table.

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    I've started experimenting with the cut break and while I'm by no means an expert on the subject, here are a few things I've noticed.

    Generally speaking, whatever break you use, you have to time the ball well. You can get a massive break just by timing the ball well. With regard to your problem of putting the cue ball off the table, it can be down to a number of things, so I'd need a bit more info. For example, are cueing off the side cushion like most of the pros? Are you just placing your hand on the side rail and cueing normally? This will affect the angle at which you're cueing the ball, which is often the culprit.

    You need to really focus on hitting that second ball as full as possible. Hitting it too thin can cause the cue ball to fly off with momentum. This brings me to my next point. The idea of the cut break is that you're not trying to smash them like a regular break, you're actually using a softer stroke by comparison as you're actually hitting more of the pack, so the energy transfer is more efficient. That's why you see a lot of players use their playing cue for this type of break. If you're trying to hit them as hard as you would a normal break and you clip the pack thin, then you're almost guaranteed to go off the table or in the corner pocket. It's still a firm stroke, but nowhere near normal break speed.

    Finally, I tend to use a touch of back with some side, depending on which side of the table I'm breaking on. This just helps me to get the cue ball more central, but it also helps flick the cue ball back into the pack if there are any clusters left.

    Hope this helps in some way or another.

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    Thanks, yes I break from the right hand side cushion. At first I was breaking with hand on the table and some right hand side but felt more comfortable from the cushion. I take it if you break from the right you put right hand side on and vice versa from left hand side of the table? I'm maybe just trying to hit them a bit too hard rather than timing it well.

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    Yeah that's correct. I find that when you cue from the cushion you can also get an angle where you see much more of the second ball which really helps. I'd recommend just really focusing on getting a nice firm contact when you're next practicing and you should see much better results. Once I got my timing and accuracy down I found I could increase my power a bit if the table was playing slowly, but most of the time I don't need to hit them all that hard. Especially useful when I can't be bothered getting my break cue out!

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    Was considering getting a break cue or at least a cue with a larger tip for breaking, mine is 9mm maybe a larger tip would give a bit more room for error.

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    I play with a 9.2mm and that doesn't cause any problems with the cut break. Like I said it's mostly timing. Personally I think having a break cue for the cut break kind of defeats the point. I have mine for when I go into the head ball and can guarantee a tight pack every time.

    On the topic of break cues, a break cue may help with your head ball break. I'm of the school of thought that I don't want to be playing that kind of break shot with my playing cue as it's nothing like any other shot that you ordinarily play. Plus, before I went to using a break cue, I'd get through tips with alarming regularity. At any rate, that's another discussion entirely, although one I'm more than happy to have!

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    Been looking into break cues, Jason Owen seems to be the most popular but don't really want to spend that much on a break cue I might not get on with. Other options seem to be Woods who do lightweight English Pool ash break cues around 14oz and heavyweight Chinese Pool maple break cues around 20oz, both are around the 60-65 price which is what I would be happy to pay for a cue that I'm only going to use once a frame. Peradon also do an ash one for a similar price. I prefer maple same as my playing cue and am thinking a heavier cue with smoother stroke might be better for cut break? Can you really generate much more speed with a lightweight cue and still control it?

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