Another cue refinishing thread about linseed oils and grain fillers

[RogiBear]

This is how I finish my cues before I send them out to customers.

I sand through the stages to 400grit. I then apply a thixotropic spirit based grain filler. You can buy off the shelf (Luthier supplier would likely have something suitable) or make yourself with earth pigments. Apply with a soft cloth or disposable towel and rub into the grain don't let excess sit. Allow to dry overnight. Sand again with 400, wet (oil) sand 800 grit, the slurry will fill the pores and leave it smooth. Wipe excess off and sand through the grades up to 2000 grit.

Oil the cue, remember less oil, sufficient time between applications and more of them is better! Using 0000 wire wool between applications for super smooth finish. As for Oil I use my own blend but an off the self finishing or Danish oil will be ok.

[JayRizzie]

What material fill the grains (composition)?
I living in Hungary, here's just one billiard shop in whole country (snooker not a popular sport in there:S), I see Legends Grain Filler on the internet, but they don't have them (just wax but not in stock either).
There is a simpler replacement product or better choice use the Legends Grain Filler?
I would love to order from UK but after the brexit is very expensive the clearance.

Hey, I also stumbled upon the Nitorlack Waterbased Grain Filler, I think it would be a good solution. I can state, that waterbased grain fillers (which I used as well) work fine with an oil finish.

For sanding, 320/400 for the start, 800 and even 1200 for the final finish should be good. I personally used a brass brush to open the grain, dampening the wood a little with water before grain filler application might raise it as well, so it won't afterwards.

For rubbing the grain filler in, I simply used some cotton cloth (old T-shirt), I worked it in which darkened the whole shaft, afterwards I sanded it down again until only the grain was black.

Concerning the finsihing oil, there is no right or wrong. I personally wouldn't use raw linseed oil, as it takes ages to dry. If you want to use a raw oil, I'd much prefer tung oil, otherwise I can recoomend the hotblown Boiled Linseed Oil from Mylands with no siccatives, it worked nice with my cue.

There a certainly other options, Shockerz might have more of a clue than I do. But these two above mentioned oils would be my choice.

[JayRizzie]

Firstly, the cue looks great, well done.

The tenon may in fact not be fitted offset? Some ferrules like the Peradon have pretty thick wall thickness and obviously the thread itself. Once the wood is screwed into the dowel, some of the wood is at the top at one side of the ferrule but the other side (because of the thread) it is hidden as it is under the first thread so it could in fact be in the middle with a little of the wood being hidden one side which is normal.

Thank you very much, to hear it from an expert like you feels honourable

Yeah good point, I didn't really think about the threads. You might be right here

[Met75]

I need some help for repairing process. Video guide not good for me, my english is very poor in talk.

Sanding
What a grain size paper?

Opening the grain
With? example this brush link?

Filling process
Rub with a soft cloth wait for it to dry and rub again sometimes?

Sanding?
What a grain size paper?

Finishing
With linseed oil (raw or diluted) or other material?

[Met75]

I have time today for search.
And I find NitorLack Waterbase Grain Filler Black in local guitar shop

[Met75]

If your beard is getting caught then your grain filler has probably started to come out, it is getting caught in the grain/holes.

You would need to fill that area again with a suitable grain filler to fill the grain and then redo the surface with whatever the shaft is finished in e.g. oil. Once the holes have disappeared and the grain is full then basically there's nothing to catch the hairs,

You can either choose to do the whole shaft or just the area that is annoying you.

What material fill the grains (composition)?
I living in Hungary, here's just one billiard shop in whole country (snooker not a popular sport in there:S), I see Legends Grain Filler on the internet, but they don't have them (just wax but not in stock either).
There is a simpler replacement product or better choice use the Legends Grain Filler?
I would love to order from UK but after the brexit is very expensive the clearance.

[Shockerz]

Hey guys,

My BCE Heritage cue when shooting my beard gets stuck in the wood fibers (North American Ash, the dark network).
The wood is smooth, not fibrous.

What I do?
Try sandpaper? (what fineness?)
Try fill the fibers (with what?) and sandpaper?
Use razor?

If your beard is getting caught then your grain filler has probably started to come out, it is getting caught in the grain/holes.

You would need to fill that area again with a suitable grain filler to fill the grain and then redo the surface with whatever the shaft is finished in e.g. oil. Once the holes have disappeared and the grain is full then basically there's nothing to catch the hairs,

You can either choose to do the whole shaft or just the area that is annoying you.

[Shockerz]

That sounds like a lot of research and a lot of trial and error. Very impressive
First I also thought about waxing the butt eventually, but I think I like the feel of it now. Maybe something for the future

I use a number of different finishes depending on what players want and what I think fits the wood.

Oil, oil/wax mix, wax, sanding sealer, shellac and friction oil.

I like the feel of a sanding sealer on the butt but most that I redo seem to like a wax/oil mix on the butt for grip and an oil base on the shaft for smoothness.

[Shockerz]

Hi Marc, glad you are still selling the Halo catches! Busted one the other day so ordered some from the website yesterday. Big saving on a new case!!

Hi Cue Crafty

I still sell a few different case spares which seem to help guys out. More and more difficult to get hold of now but still have a few in stock.

[Shockerz]

So here is the final result, I like the way it came out 🙂

https://ibb.co/JvGMZZ8
https://ibb.co/HC6FnRx
https://ibb.co/PC9hVP5 (i tried to replicate the same Peradon vs Cannon comparison, but only room light this time)
https://ibb.co/HpXNq4X

The cue got now 4 coats, although 2-3 would be enough I'd say. I just dropped it one time and had to remove the dings 🙄, then sanded it slightly down and got it another 2 oil coats. After each coat, I buffed it quite a lot with a microfibre towel, as you can see this got a really nice shine (especially on the ebony part, the olivewood and ash is more or less satin like).

Regarding the boiled linseed oil, I have the impression that the later coats build up more of an outside layer than really soaking up in the wood. Don't know if this applies to all oils or just this fast drying one. Nevertheless, the surface is totally smooth to the touch and not sticky after all, the last layer took just a bit more time to dry as the weather here got a bit colder and more humid.
At last, I finished the front part of the cue with a bit of 0000 steel wool, to remove the remaining glossiness and it feels now absolutely great when sliding through the bridge 🥰

All in all, it was easier and more straightforward than I thought, can absolutely recommend everyone to try it yourself if you feel the need to refinish your cue.


One last thing about the Peradon cue itself. When I replaced the tip at the end, I saw that the tenon is offcenter in relation to the ferrule and the ferrule itself has an inconsistent wall thickness. Not really impressed tbh

Firstly, the cue looks great, well done.

The tenon may in fact not be fitted offset? Some ferrules like the Peradon have pretty thick wall thickness and obviously the thread itself. Once the wood is screwed into the dowel, some of the wood is at the top at one side of the ferrule but the other side (because of the thread) it is hidden as it is under the first thread so it could in fact be in the middle with a little of the wood being hidden one side which is normal.

[Met75]

I'm not sure.
Little holes in this dark patterns https://imgur.com/a/FB8rJZO

[JayRizzie]

Hey guys,

My BCE Heritage cue when shooting my beard gets stuck in the wood fibers (North American Ash, the dark network).
The wood is smooth, not fibrous.

What I do?
Try sandpaper? (what fineness?)
Try fill the fibers (with what?) and sandpaper?
Use razor?

Maybe some pictures of the concerned area on the cue would help,

To me, when the beard gets stuck, it's mostly down to the grain not being properly filled. I don't know if a complete refinishing is needed in that case, but I personally would do it that way like described here in the thread. Quite a lot of work and time tho.

[Met75]

Hey guys,

My BCE Heritage cue when shooting my beard gets stuck in the wood fibers (North American Ash, the dark network).
The wood is smooth, not fibrous.

What I do?
Try sandpaper? (what fineness?)
Try fill the fibers (with what?) and sandpaper?
Use razor?

[JayRizzie]

I probably didn't word it very well but I like raw linseed oil along with many other types of oils, waxes and mixes.

I tend to see what sort of feel the customer likes if they have a preference and then use that. I can use anything from an oil, a wax, an oil wax mix, I also have many oil mixtures and it depends whether it is for the butt or the shaft. Very occasionally I may even use a thin coat of glue on the butt, sanding sealer and buff only or even French polish or friction polish, I guess I dabble too much.

I also like to mix particular cleaners that will put a thin coat on most finishes, I then cut it back really lightly with steel wool, buff it like mad and then it is supper smooth for 2 or 3 weeks and I use it again.

Personally I prefer an oil mixture or an oil/wax mixture on the shaft, on the butt I would have an oil/wax mixture again buffed like mad or sanding sealer only using polishing grade micromesh, feels great in your hand.

Mylands is also good as long as I get the excess off in a decent timeframe, buff like mad and cut back with steel wool between coats. You also have to keep a good eye on the drying progress.

That sounds like a lot of research and a lot of trial and error. Very impressive
First I also thought about waxing the butt eventually, but I think I like the feel of it now. Maybe something for the future

[JayRizzie]

So here is the final result, I like the way it came out 🙂

https://ibb.co/JvGMZZ8
https://ibb.co/HC6FnRx
https://ibb.co/PC9hVP5 (i tried to replicate the same Peradon vs Cannon comparison, but only room light this time)
https://ibb.co/HpXNq4X

The cue got now 4 coats, although 2-3 would be enough I'd say. I just dropped it one time and had to remove the dings 🙄, then sanded it slightly down and got it another 2 oil coats. After each coat, I buffed it quite a lot with a microfibre towel, as you can see this got a really nice shine (especially on the ebony part, the olivewood and ash is more or less satin like).

Regarding the boiled linseed oil, I have the impression that the later coats build up more of an outside layer than really soaking up in the wood. Don't know if this applies to all oils or just this fast drying one. Nevertheless, the surface is totally smooth to the touch and not sticky after all, the last layer took just a bit more time to dry as the weather here got a bit colder and more humid.
At last, I finished the front part of the cue with a bit of 0000 steel wool, to remove the remaining glossiness and it feels now absolutely great when sliding through the bridge 🥰

All in all, it was easier and more straightforward than I thought, can absolutely recommend everyone to try it yourself if you feel the need to refinish your cue.


One last thing about the Peradon cue itself. When I replaced the tip at the end, I saw that the tenon is offcenter in relation to the ferrule and the ferrule itself has an inconsistent wall thickness. Not really impressed tbh
https://ibb.co/x2kTGQB
I read over here https://www.thesnookerforum.co.uk/bo...ong-thin-thick that at least this guy has the same problem.
I vaguely guess this is down to mass production and the whole cue is lathed down after fitting the ferrule, so I asked on one of Barry Stark's videos if this would affect the playing. He answered it is bad craftsmanship, but should not really affect anything.
What's your guess on this one? I'm asking myself if I should replace the ferrule or just leave it that way.

I think it is kind of a shame, because this cue is definitely pricey and in their upper range, but neither the shaft seems to be properly chosen (at least for the asthetics) nor is it build properly. Guess you can get better cues for the money