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Another cue refinishing thread about linseed oils and grain fillers

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  • andycam
    replied
    I did try to open the grain on the shaft by running a nylon brush over it gently in the grain direction. I think doing this first helps the grain accept the Q age a bit easier. But it does make a differece to the chevrons in particular.

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  • Starsky
    replied
    Originally Posted by andycam View Post
    I put one coat on, left it on for 15 minutes and lightly buffed it afterwards. Then left it overnight and went over it with 0000 wire wool in the morning. It now feels super smooth.
    Thanks.
    I've ordered some of the Q Age as well so that should get a similar finish. I’m really looking to darken the shaft a bit as I’m used to a darker finish than the Maximus cues.

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  • andycam
    replied
    I put one coat on, left it on for 15 minutes and lightly buffed it afterwards. Then left it overnight and went over it with 0000 wire wool in the morning. It now feels super smooth.

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  • Starsky
    replied
    Nice looking cue , I’ve got exactly the same one
    I’ve just done a couple of coats of the Q Gel recently. How many coats have you done to get that finish ?

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  • andycam
    replied
    Yeah really easy to be honest, i was really nervous about ruining my cue, but it was a really enjoyable process. I would definitely recommend these two products. He has another product called Q -Lac which is designed specifically for the butt end of the cue I believe.

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  • DeanH
    replied
    cool
    how did you find using those two products?

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  • andycam
    replied
    Thanks for helping me with that Dean👍👍

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  • DeanH
    replied
    Originally Posted by andycam View Post
    Here is my refinished Maximus using the products above, and I’m really happy with how it has come out. The arrows in the shaft have been filled and darkened, and the Q gel has made the shaft and butt end really smooth and shiny. All in all very easy and excellent products to use.
    sorry Andy, no images showing.
    How are you doing the images?

    Here are some instructions that may help


    How to add images to your TSF posts
    You can use a free image-sharing site such as ImgBB, without registering (you can register for free), to upload your images, you may have to do the “not a robot” checks quickly. There are other image sharing sites as well.
    ImgBB.com
    Click on "Start Uploading"
    Browse to the file and select it, click Open
    Auto delete image - leave as "Don't autodelete".
    Click "Upload".
    Change "Embed Codes" to "BBCode full linked".
    Hover over the code in the box, a "COPY" will appear, click this.
    Go to your TSF post and paste.
    You can repeat for multiple images in a single post.

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  • andycam
    replied
    Here is my refinished Maximus using the products above, and I’m really happy with how it has come out. The arrows in the shaft have been filled and darkened, and the Q gel has made the shaft and butt end really smooth and shiny. All in all very easy and excellent products to use.


    Last edited by andycam; 22 February 2022, 12:26 PM.

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  • andycam
    replied

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  • andycam
    replied
    I have purchased Q age and Q gel from Mike Wooldridge so will be doing it myself. Do i need to open the grain on the cue first to use this product? Or will a good wipe down with white spirit be enough. Thanks

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  • andycam
    replied
    Like the post above, my cue has lost some grain filler where my beard rubbed against it, im not sure i would be able to re- grain it myself in fear of ruining my cue. Im heading to Chesworth Cues in Sheffield next week so will se what they suggest.
    Last edited by andycam; 30 January 2022, 07:55 PM.

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  • vmax
    replied
    Cleaning the cue with a damp, and I mean DAMP NOT WET towell after use is fine and will not affect the oil finish if it has been allowed to 'cure' for a few days. Just because it's dry doesn't mean it's finished, it must be given a few days to cure and that means allowing it to harden and protect the wood.
    Oil should be applied in thin coats, removing any excess immediately, about a day apart, it will dry in about four hours and can be rubbed down with 0000 grade steel wool ready for the next coat the following day. After about four or five coats leave the last coat to 'cure for about three days, then give the shaft a very light rub down with 0000 grade steel wool to give it a matt finish that makes the shaft less prone to stickyness, leaving the butt gloss for a better grip.
    I do this with my cue every year, take off the existing oil finish with 1200 grade paper and then re-finish it. Unlike some I don't use a specific grain filler, I add some activated charcoal to the first coat of oil and that highlights the grain as well as making the wood look antique, which is what I want.
    In fact I shall be doing it this weekend.

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  • Met75
    replied
    Hey guys,

    I finished the cue.
    Sand through 400grit, twice.
    Use Nitorlack Waterbased Grain Filler, twice.
    After drying sand through 400grit (twice), 800grit (twice), 1200grit (twice).
    After one day apply STOCKARYD oil (IKEA, mix of linseed and tung oil).
    After one day sand wire wool.

    Give smooth, shiny surfaces.
    Make pictures, above original, in the middle after filling, belove after oil. https://imgur.com/a/PybALQd
    Unfortunately the sd card died in my phone when start so I only took pictures of the important parts.
    Same phone, same settings, same lights and some pictures it got too dark, corrected in Photoshop.

    The big question is as I clean the cue after playing so as not to damage the oil?

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  • Met75
    replied
    Thanks for all the help.
    Unfortunately I can only buy linseed oil like this before christmas.
    The stores where I could buy tung or dainsh oil have closed this year.
    I make before after pictures for you

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