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if i would of cut the shaft above when it was conceived 40 odd years ago, i would of cut it the other way around. but still the grain is broad and straight regardless. as far as the play/stiffness/vibe of the cue, i dont think you can change the innate characteristics of the wood no matter how you cut it
It was just a thought. I guess I don't generally worry too much about the arrows myself, just crossed my mind about the flow of the grain and feel.
if i would of cut the shaft above when it was conceived 40 odd years ago, i would of cut it the other way around. but still the grain is broad and straight regardless. as far as the play/stiffness/vibe of the cue, i dont think you can change the innate characteristics of the wood no matter how you cut it
well in regards to the wenge wood, there could be something in it if you go by grain pattern. like i use straight grain and billabongs jo cue has the waves of the arrows, could be something there.
but wenge is roughly the same weight as ash, and with regards to the cue iv just put together i wanted to keep the weight forwards at 18bp and light at around 17oz, though the shaft is mid-heavy i think the cue will play better this way.
Sorry mate. I've just re-read my question and I certainly didn't write what I was thinking.
I was referring tp the chevrons going the opposite way to normal just above the butt fingers.
I wondered if the way the arrows point dictates the flow of the wood? Does it make a difference to how the cue plays (stiff or not) with the direction of the arrows so you could change them to alter how you want the cue to play.
Now I'm sure it makes no difference but interested in the answer.
Not a question i've thought of before but do you think it makes any difference to the reaction of the cue to the striking of the cue ball...........
I expect the answer to be no but I wonder if it truly makes a firmer hit or no difference at all?
well in regards to the wenge wood, there could be something in it if you go by grain pattern. like i use straight grain and billabongs jo cue has the waves of the arrows, could be something there.
but wenge is roughly the same weight as ash, and with regards to the cue iv just put together i wanted to keep the weight forwards at 18bp and light at around 17oz, though the shaft is mid-heavy i think the cue will play better this way.
I've been enjoying this thread J, nice looking cues but I have a question. Is it possible to alter the balance point of a cue without messing with the weight of the cue too much? And is it an easy job, like could I send you my cue and you could sort it out for not too many beans? It's a 3/4 split BTW
it would be a bit tricky with a 3/4, dealing with joints usually means lathe work. i do everything by hand, best see a machinist cue maker..
good to hear your liking the thread btw
I've been enjoying this thread J, nice looking cues but I have a question. Is it possible to alter the balance point of a cue without messing with the weight of the cue too much? And is it an easy job, like could I send you my cue and you could sort it out for not too many beans? It's a 3/4 split BTW
bit under it at the mo so i wouldnt get a joke if you said it five times in each ear.. but cheers love all that, 70s 80s was tvs golden era
still think the cues got some life in yet
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