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  • pocket leather replacement

    Hi,
    I could use some advice on how to replace pocket leathers as i have now got some dark brown leathers to go on my BCE Westbury, which will look more authentic than the light coloured ones i have. Is it possible to do it without removing the pocket plates and cushions? And, how would i go about trimming the sides, as they come oversized, which i think is normal.

    I noticed that the new leathers seem harder than the light coloured ones - and wondered if that is a result of the staining that was done on them? I hope it won't affect the play. Anyone experienced this?

  • #2
    Geoff Large will be able to help you with this mate . There is also another table fitter on here but can't remember his name .
    Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !

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    • #3
      Have you have bought generic ones and not original BCE Westbury ones which have lugs which go over the locating pins? If they have lugs, the cushions will have to come off to fit properly. Or you could trim the lugs off. You may find that your new ones are thicker than the existing ones which may cause them to sit slightly higher than the cushion.

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      • #4
        They are not the ones with lugs and they look slightly thinner than my existing ones, although i think they are both the same Peradon Extra Extra Broad Bow. As far as i know, the original BCE ones aren't made anymore.

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        • #5
          These are bigger and will need trimming down. Do the pocket plates butt up tightly to the cushion capping. Ie no gaps. Id so I would remove the cushions and existing leathers. `Dry` fit the new leather over the pocket plate and trim the leathers by using the brass pocket plate as the template and guide for the blade. A brand new blade in your Stanley. If there is a gap you will have to allow a little extra overhang to cover this.

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          • #6
            There are gaps in places - and because of this i think it will be better to fit the leathers with the cushions and pocket plates in place as they are. I don't want to take the cushions off if i don't have to.

            What about lacing the leathers... Is there a trick to that?

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            • #7
              I prefer to take the cushion off. If you take the cushion off and the leather of the plate. Fit the new leather over the plate and trim one side flush with the plate. Slide leather so that the edge which you have just cut so that it overhangs the plate by the amount you require and a little bit extra. Trim the other edge flush with plate. The extra is required when you lace up as when you pull the lace tight prior to tying the leather will tighten too. When lacing up you will need a large wool or sailmakers needle and its simply a case of starting at one side, in one hole right through the other side and back out through the adjacent hole, right through the leather until you reach the end and then repeat filling in the gaps. The loose ends are tied off behind the leather.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the advice, but I don't think i want to take the cushions and pocket plates off just to change the leathers. I think that would be better done when it's time to change the cloth, but that won't be for quite sometime.

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                • #9
                  Its only six bolts holding the cushion and two screws holding the plate. Take you 5 mins to remove and 5 mins to replace. I have ballsed up cutting leathers short, especially the middles. Thats why I prefer to do it that way. To each their own.

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                  • #10
                    listen to Maryfield , if you want to do the job more acuratley , you only have to take three cushions off black spot cushion and 2 and 6 , when you refit the leather always cutt proud of the end of the plate sometimes upto 1/4 of an inch , then when refitting you will only have to trim slightly to make the better fit , there is always a gap in those bce plates as they where made for lugged leathers , we used to call them mickey mouse tab leathers .
                    when sewing/stringing the leathers on make sure you take the last loop around the end of the leather , this stops those nasty curlups of the leather .
                    I never use the peredon flat cord that comes with the leathers , I use B&Q string the thicker type , we used to use braided cord like what you get on a bathroom pull cord for the light , but it is expensive , you can get this inB&Q in a brown type of braided cord ...look around the string rope and chain section in B&Q .

                    look at the link although this is white they do a brown fawn colour one too . you can also wood stain it darker brown too if it is not nylon .

                    http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/...t-Duty-9370707
                    Last edited by Geoff Large; 14th February 2012, 06:14 PM.
                    [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the advice, both of you.

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                      • #12
                        I always used a hooked Stanley knife blade to trim new leathers, probably just down to the technique I developed whilst holding the plate upside down with the inside of the leather towards me.
                        Billiard Fitters always have time for a nap!

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                        • #13
                          What size are the heads on the cushion bolts? I'm not at home now so can't check it, and thought i might get a socket at lunchtime.

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                          • #14
                            its a 17mm hex

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                            • #15
                              Are cushions 2 and 6 the green and yellow cushions? Are you saying that i can leave the other cushions (apart from black) firmly bolted in place without loosening the bolts?

                              Originally posted by Geoff Large View Post
                              listen to Maryfield , if you want to do the job more acuratley , you only have to take three cushions off black spot cushion and 2 and 6 , when you refit the leather always cutt proud of the end of the plate sometimes upto 1/4 of an inch , then when refitting you will only have to trim slightly to make the better fit , there is always a gap in those bce plates as they where made for lugged leathers , we used to call them mickey mouse tab leathers .
                              when sewing/stringing the leathers on make sure you take the last loop around the end of the leather , this stops those nasty curlups of the leather .
                              I never use the peredon flat cord that comes with the leathers , I use B&Q string the thicker type , we used to use braided cord like what you get on a bathroom pull cord for the light , but it is expensive , you can get this inB&Q in a brown type of braided cord ...look around the string rope and chain section in B&Q .

                              look at the link although this is white they do a brown fawn colour one too . you can also wood stain it darker brown too if it is not nylon .

                              http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/...t-Duty-9370707

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