snooker table slate, 50mm thick, Burroughes & Watts
Cheers mate , you've put my mind at rest, given your comments I'll stick with the slates, they are after all the original ones ,
Many thanks
Steve
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No the fitter may have to shim just at the side frame if the shaling / flaking has gone above the side rail frame , he or you could just surface fill the under part that has shailed with a car body filler and then block sand it smooth , all slates have a not finnished underside , they are approx flat not like the playing surface which has got to be true .
as long as the slate is sound and hs not got any major cracks all the way through you will be ok , and large chips or divets in the face or joints are filled with filler and sanded prior to the cloth being fitted , and on some old tables this will be the norm also . this is caused by rough handling when the tables have been moved , some people rest the slates on batons on the slate joint which chips them , the best way to store slates is upright like a door leaning slightly against a solid wall , the playing edge facing outwards , then any chipping of the slate is under its lower outside edge if dragged about or shuffled .
A piano trolly is the best form of tool to move slates and two strong men . they have protective rubber bars . here is a photo of one .
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snooker table slate, 50mm thick, Burroughes & Watts
anyone an expert> I've just purchased a full size table, old Burroughes & Watts steel block, with 2" slates, trouble is, I think, is that the slates have split underneath, flaked approx 5mm thick in a couple of locations, the playing surface appears all good, will this effect the installation, should I scrap the slates or can they be installed no prob's ???
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