Snooker room floor

[pat0000]

Hi guys, just got round to seeing all your replys, Thank you very much, I really appreciate you all giving me all the help and advice. Can I ask, I am trying to build a snooker room 24x18 or so, my garden is on a slope, instead of me having to dig it all out level for a concrete base, can I ask? if I dig out 8inches or so for concrete at, lets say 13 x 7 for table to sit on, can I then build the shed 24x18 or 20ft round the concrete base and then have my floor in 8x4 ft x maybe 19mm boards, put the wooden floor at same level of base, and on slight stilts where needed maybe 2 or 3 ft where needed. The height will be 8ft as maxium you can build in NI without Planning Permission is 8.2metres. Hopefully this maks sense, Cheers, Pat

[Danger Steve]

Insulation board under the underfloor heating is part of the system and provides greater efficiency (no point heating up the concrete slab) enough to notice when you're paying the bills. Slightly different to heat mats. No need for additional heater units.
Oh.. table is a Burroughs & Watts

Did you manage to save all the cladding when you re-did your membrane?

What system are you using exactly? What about cooling?

Yes saved every board! All screwed on so pretty easy to take apart.

[trying]

trying

Why bother with insulation or cable heating?? If it’s a concrete slab, just lay out your underfloor cable heat mat and self-level over the top? Just make sure you go for the higher 200w mat that is designed for concrete floors. I’m a pro bathroom fitter and have installed countless heat mats onto both timber and concrete floors and I’ve never paid the extra money for the insulation boards... I just don’t see the point to the extra cost, at the end of the day heat rises? Technically unless you have the thermostat set to over 30oC for several hours, the cables are only really to take the chill off the floor not heat the room.. so if you were say walking round in your socks or bare feet it stops your feet getting cold. To properly heat your room I’ve been looking at those heater, air con, dehumidifier units which are very efficient at heating and cooling large areas of around 30m2. And for the table you’d be best off with something that is actually designed to directly heat the slate, not a passive heat source such as the cable heating. Speak to Justin at Hotwire snooker table heating! He has some plug and play kits at a reasonable price.

Hope that helps!

Insulation board under the underfloor heating is part of the system and provides greater efficiency (no point heating up the concrete slab) enough to notice when you're paying the bills. Slightly different to heat mats. No need for additional heater units.
Oh.. table is a Burroughs & Watts

Did you manage to save all the cladding when you re-did your membrane?

[Danger Steve]

trying

Why bother with insulation or cable heating?? If it’s a concrete slab, just lay out your underfloor cable heat mat and self-level over the top? Just make sure you go for the higher 200w mat that is designed for concrete floors. I’m a pro bathroom fitter and have installed countless heat mats onto both timber and concrete floors and I’ve never paid the extra money for the insulation boards... I just don’t see the point to the extra cost, at the end of the day heat rises? Technically unless you have the thermostat set to over 30oC for several hours, the cables are only really to take the chill off the floor not heat the room.. so if you were say walking round in your socks or bare feet it stops your feet getting cold. To properly heat your room I’ve been looking at those heater, air con, dehumidifier units which are very efficient at heating and cooling large areas of around 30m2. And for the table you’d be best off with something that is actually designed to directly heat the slate, not a passive heat source such as the cable heating. Speak to Justin at Hotwire snooker table heating! He has some plug and play kits at a reasonable price.

Hope that helps!

[Danger Steve]

Hi guys, not sure where to ask this question. I'm looking to build a snooker room in my back garden 23x!6. I personally would like it built in brick, I got a builder in, he said to build as a conservatory, ie all glass K4 i think and tiled roof, He also suggested underfloor heating, he said it was not expensive to run, and he said I would not need insulation as glass is triple glazed, he said this would be less expensive.Can I ask, would this be a good idea? Would anyone have any idea how much this would cost?
I'm not sure about a wooden shed as I think the flooring and joists wood eventually rot and I don't know how that could be fixed with a table on it.
Would anyone have any idea of cost to
1. Dig out garden and put in founds and concrete floor
2. Price to buy block, brick isulation and build building
3. I was hoping to have it built for less than 10k
4. Can I also ask, if I buy a table, does anyone know how much it would cost for delivery?
I'm in Belfast, so abit harder to maybe get a table.
Sorry for all the questions.

I’m not sure on the planning rules and regs in Belfast but first of all double check with the council and planning department what you can and can’t build (assuming it’s in your garden), they’ll definitely help guide you in the right direction!

Regards the slab, if I could go back in time and had a bigger budget I would have built an insulated concrete slab for my snooker shed. That way the chill will be taken off the concrete floor. IMO if you insulate beneath a reinforced slab you don’t need any kind of under floor heating, not unless you plan on playing snooker bare foot! Nothing wrong with a timber shed if built correctly so I wouldn’t rule that out as a way of avoiding planning permission and lowering cost on the building materials. Brick walls with an insulated cavity (Rockwool cavity bats) would be good and a proper slate or tile roof to fit in with building regs, certainly a more permanent structure that will last years.

Double glazed windows North facing are best! They let in some light but not direct sunlight which as Dean said can damage the cloth over time. Definitely insulate the shed! Remember if it’s a timber building to have air gaps and vents for condensation.

Once you know what it is you want exactly then I would speak to a few builders and get a few quotes.

Good luck!

[Cue crafty]

so you had better factor-in blinds/curtains and also the wife complaining

Such a learned and wise fellow Dean!

[DeanH]

conservatory - as in all-round glass?

direct sunlight will affect the cloth (bleaching, etc.) and the wood frame with be affected as well heating up and down as the direct sunlight hits it.

also as you are playing the sun can be in your eyes.

so you had better factor-in blinds/curtains and also the wife complaining



tables -
have a look and contact Geoff on his site https://gclbilliards.com/
also contact maryfield (here) who also deals with tables (up scotland way I think)

[pat0000]

Hi guys, not sure where to ask this question. I'm looking to build a snooker room in my back garden 23x!6. I personally would like it built in brick, I got a builder in, he said to build as a conservatory, ie all glass K4 i think and tiled roof, He also suggested underfloor heating, he said it was not expensive to run, and he said I would not need insulation as glass is triple glazed, he said this would be less expensive.Can I ask, would this be a good idea? Would anyone have any idea how much this would cost?
I'm not sure about a wooden shed as I think the flooring and joists wood eventually rot and I don't know how that could be fixed with a table on it.
Would anyone have any idea of cost to
1. Dig out garden and put in founds and concrete floor
2. Price to buy block, brick isulation and build building
3. I was hoping to have it built for less than 10k
4. Can I also ask, if I buy a table, does anyone know how much it would cost for delivery?
I'm in Belfast, so abit harder to maybe get a table.
Sorry for all the questions.

[Bell308]

trying:
you could construct a cementious screed, below which your insulation is laid, this then sits on top of the structural (ground bearing?) slab which sits on compacted type 1 stone.
you can bed a tile under each leg which can be cast into the screed although its not strictly necessary.
but please note id wait a little while after the floor / screed is laid to install the table and have it levelled and shimmed etc as even a very good floor layer will still not get the surface perfectly flat, i'd expect a tolerance of circa +-3.0mm to be the norm on a 50mm thick screed. the floor will also continue to dry out for about 12 months during which you could expect a little movement to occur..

as Phillip in China suggests a plug or four under the table is a great idea for table heater/iron/vac/ etc. as its a pain to get power there afterwards.

[trying]

OT but do consider running a cable under the table to a power outlet. It will be very useful if you later wabt to run a heater under your table. I also use mine when ironing the table.

Am doing although not for heater, the underfloor heating will be under the table anyway.

[philip in china]

OT but do consider running a cable under the table to a power outlet. It will be very useful if you later wabt to run a heater under your table. I also use mine when ironing the table.

[trying]

Bell308,
Using insulation then underfloor heating mats on top of slab. It was just whether I should bed tiles where each leg of the table will sit.

[Bell308]

Trying,
Some of the floor insulation available to us now has a higher compressive strength than the concrete!! (such as jabfloor 100 of 150) you can always look at laying the insulation below the full width / depth concrete slab so the table bears directly onto the slab / screed finish and the slab can be stiffened to suit the load from the table. your engineer will know how to do this for you (and yes I'm a structural engineer).
don't let the table legs bear onto a floating or any type of timber floor that's a big long term problem.

[trying]

Seen a few without any floor insulation so just a decent screed on top so you can lay floor tiles (fabric) on it. This way the table is on a solid base.

Seen one recently where the timber framed guys said it would be fine on the wooden floor; I didn't think so and sure enough the floors moved.

Yes, I wasn't keen on the idea of the table sitting on insulation

[Shockerz]

Seen a few without any floor insulation so just a decent screed on top so you can lay floor tiles (fabric) on it. This way the table is on a solid base.

Seen one recently where the timber framed guys said it would be fine on the wooden floor; I didn't think so and sure enough the floors moved.