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  • #76
    Went for the 4000k, 6000k is too blue for me and would just hurt my eyes.

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    • #77
      Hummm,, I've started to notice some fluffy green mould inside the shed on the PLY boarding along the bottom! This will need sorting before I get too much further with the table!

      I have been having issuse for a while on the extrnal boards with black spot of mould on the paint down near the lower 1-2ft of the wall where it obviously gets really wet when it rains.... I wonder if the two are conected?

      Any ideas?

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      • #78
        Is the room heated / ventilated at the moment? Insulated? Have you used a membrane in the walls?

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        • #79
          It not uncommon for plywood to get mouldy when new. It's probably been stored outside at some point and picked up some mould spores. Initially, just wash down the walls with bleach to kill the mould, and see if it comes back.

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          • #80
            I think the humidity is an issue, it fluctuates between low 70’s with the heater being on for an hour to over 80% overnight and in the morning. At the moment the only heat I have is when I go out there to do a bit of work for a couple of hours here and there and turn on my small fan heater. The only ventilation is opening the door, I always assume ventilation counter acts the heating/cooling (in summer), but maybe I’ll have to let it vent to stop this mould? Does it matter where the vents are positioned to best encourage air flow? Obviously I don’t want rain coming in.

            The wall build up from inside to out is:

            PLY board> 4x2” timber with rockwool insulation> breathable membrane> PLY board painted with exterior wood paint.

            I took one of the wall boards off last night and see the back of the breather membrane is sweating slightly which is probably causing the mould to form at the bottom? I’ve read adding a plastic vapour barrier between the insulation on the inside between the insulation and the PLY stops warm moist air getting in contact with the cold membrane and reduce the sweating? It’s not a major problem at the moment but the shed isn’t going to last 10+ years the way it is...

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            • #81
              Well chaps, it seems after speaking with some 'experts' the whole shed construction is fundamentally flawed hence all the mould/damp problems I'm already having.... I guess DIY shed building isn't something you can try and cut corners on.

              So I'm calling it a day on the whole thing because I basically don't have the money or energy to start again, the whole thing is pretty depressing.

              I've decided to sell the table as it is, so if anyone knows of anyone interested in taking it off my hands please let me know! I'll probably also put an ad on Ebay. Obviously the frame is done it just need the cushions finishing, re-rubbering and staining, varnishing etc...

              THanks!

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              • #82
                Sorry to hear that Steve, must be a real body blow. Keep your chin up.

                This is may be a good time to mention that a fair few people have said, once they completed their snooker rooms they seldom used them and preferred to play in a club.
                No cheap shots...well maybe the odd one if its funny...

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                • #83
                  Sorry to hear that Steve. Keep smiling mate. While I'm sure its all a bit raw at the moment, what is the problem with the construction that it seems fundamental that it isn't salvageable?? All looked to be heading in the right direction
                  Last edited by trying; 12th January 2020, 09:20 AM.

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                  • #84
                    OK, I've given myself a good talking too and the project will get finished after all! Sod the so called experts.. What do they know! This isn't a Ski chalet in Austria, it's a shed at the end of the day.

                    The problem with the mould growth as it turns out is down to a couple of key errors... 1. I've discovered the reason the wall cavities are sweating so much is because the breathable membrane from Screwfix apparently isn't breathable at all!! It's actually water proof and air proof roofing membrane, I discovered this after checking on the manufacturers website. 2. There is no air gap between the exterior cladding and the insulated walls and because of this a capillary reaction has been drawing water up the back of the exterior PLY sheets and getting it soaking wet on the inside, causing even more damp and mould growth around the base of the shed! My saving grace has been the installation of the wrong membrane which has stopped the damp and moisture getting to the 4"x2" timber structure, and thus restoring the 'Clever/Dumb' balance.

                    So.… What needs to be done? Well, all the external boards need to come off, proper breathable membrane fitted and the boards need to be fixed back with some timber battens to create the air-gap. I will probably also add several air vents high and low to create a little airflow through the shed when not in use, these can be closed off when I want to heat or cool the room before playing snooker. The table I will cover over during the winter with some XL duvet covers to stop the table getting too cold and I'll have some under table tube heaters running via temperature controlled plug sockets. Hopefully this should fix all the issues. It's going to mean a lot of time and effort, but long term there will be no more worrying about mould and damp.


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                    • #85
                      Well done Steve , you appear to be a very practical level headed person . I'm glad you saw the light and have continued with your build .

                      All the best with finishing it .
                      Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !

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                      • #86
                        Glad to hear it Steve. That was why I asked the extent of the issue, it didn't appear that it was anything that couldn't be undone. Keep up the good work

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                        • #87
                          Nice solution Steve, you just had to sit down and have a chat with yourself, Sorted. look forward to this years progress.
                          Snooker is a game of simple shots played to perfection, Joe Davies

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                          • #88
                            Looking at making up some pocket templates over the weekend, I’ve found these technical drawings online.


                            http://www.rulesofsnooker.com/pocket...irca-1996.html

                            They look like a good guide? I’ll probably adjust the corner pocket to 3.5” at the slate fall. The centre pocket drawing seems odd though? The slate pocket cut-out seems to stick out past the edge of the cushion?

                            Does anyone have any idea if this is correct, or am I missing something?

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                            • #89
                              ahh I recognise these
                              Yes the START OF THE FALL is just inside the line of the cushions

                              what I have not found out is any dimension or the radius of the cut of the fall of the slate
                              Last edited by DeanH; 17th January 2020, 08:36 PM.
                              Up the TSF!

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                              • #90
                                Isn’t the radius the ‘r= 2.094” ‘ taken from a few mm back from the edge of the slate and on the centre line of the pocket.... that’s how I read it

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