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  • It seems the 18000 BTU unit is a F-gas fitter job. Hence the 400-600 (because they can) installation fee! I suppose if the only difference is not having a warranty if it’s still possible to DIY fit, then the unit is only 550 so you could just buy a new one if it went Pete Tong?? The problem this time of year everyone is so busy that prices tend to go up! Maybe try nearer the time in the new Year? It’s one of the last items to go in anyway, you just need to make sure you have a socket or fuse spur on the wall the internal unit will be fitted.

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    • Originally Posted by Danger Steve View Post
      It seems the 18000 BTU unit is a F-gas fitter job. Hence the 400-600 (because they can) installation fee! I suppose if the only difference is not having a warranty if it’s still possible to DIY fit, then the unit is only 550 so you could just buy a new one if it went Pete Tong?? The problem this time of year everyone is so busy that prices tend to go up! Maybe try nearer the time in the new Year? It’s one of the last items to go in anyway, you just need to make sure you have a socket or fuse spur on the wall the internal unit will be fitted.
      I'm actually thinking whether to chance a 12000 unit instead. Sounds much more straightforward. I'm going to look for a couple more days and see what I can find in terms of fitters. Pushed delivery out until late January (ordered now to avoid any post brexit hikes) so not much trouble to cancel

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      • I've been watching this thread on and off with interest for some time now and am impressed with it all

        I can however offer some advice on A/C sizing from personal experience... It's not a good idea to go big (counter to what you may think)... Even with Inverter units that can ramp down the compressor to a slower rate...

        What happens if it's too powerful is that it cycles excessively - i.e. the compressor can't run at a low enough speed to maintain the set temperature, so it cuts out to avoid overcooling (or overheating), this can be quite annoying in a particularly temperate situation (where it's NOT really cold or hot outside so it doesn't have to do much work)..

        This stops you using the Auto mode as it will overshoot and then do the opposite, rather than maintain a nice even temperature.

        More annoying is when it's cooling - most units do not shut off the internal fan when the compressor stops, and what happens then is that the inside air is blown over the (now very moist due to condensation) coil and raises the humidity to the point where stuff gets sticky (and sometimes get that musty smell) - until it starts cooling again.

        On a hot day or other circumstance where it has sufficient work to do it's not a problem as the compressor will run continuously and maintain the temperature.

        We have a log cabin 10m x 6m with about 2.5m to the apex, insulated roof and floor, 70mm thick "logs" so it's insulated to a fair degree.

        It was originally sized for an 8000btu a/c heat pump but the installer had a 6 month old 12000btu ceiling cassette which was too good a price to turn down and I was non the wiser to the above issue, thinking "bigger is better"... until we had the above problems usually in spring and autumn and mild days other times when heating or cooling was needed. Auto mode was totally unusable.

        I needed to move business premises (light industrial unit) back in 2018 and wanted some heating for that, so decided to buy a new 8000btu super inverter a/c for the cabin and have the 12000btu go to the unit (where it works nicely).

        The 8000btu works a lot lot better than the 12000 did in the cabin (auto now works as it doesn't badly overshoot), but it's STILL a bit too big particularly when cooling and have the humidity issues when it cycles off! It doesn't run at full whack even on the hottest or coldest days so I think we could have even gone smaller!

        Of course if you go too small it'll find it too hard to achieve the temperatures at the extreme ends of the scale but it does show sizing is really important.

        Hope this helps someone...

        Keith

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        • Absolutely cracking build Steve...well done.
          The effort you have put in gives me inspiration!

          just after a little advice please if you dont mind.

          I am looking at doing a very similar build and stick to 30m2 to be within permitted development and one side will be under a meter away from one of the boundaries. I was after advice in terms of yours,as it looks fairly close to your boundary,did you have to fireproof it to come under permitted development?
          appreciate the help.


          Also how is it for room for cueing?

          All the best

          Luke

          Comment


          • Hi Luke. Thanks for your comments! Keep them coming

            I have 1 meter off the boundary, give or take.. The fence is a bit wonky! I think the fire proofing issue only comes in when you have to go through building control/planning. So long as you stick to the guidelines on boundaries, size, height, area of garden used, no toilets or bedrooms, etc you can build it from whatever you like, common sense permitting!

            Don’t forget the 30m2 is the internal ‘Floor’ dimension, externally it can be larger! Mine is a ‘greedy’ 30m2 if you get what I mean! I think unless you really get the wrong side of the people from Building Control then they are unlikely to get the tape measure out and start measuring! You really need 32-33m2 and that is just about big enough, if the extra 2or 3 is ever an issue then simply build a short wall internally down one end and just leave a gap/recess for the butt of a cue!

            I would recommend giving the council a ring to check your not in a conservation area, then give your local Building Control department a call and discuss what you want to build, a 30m2 Games Room in your back garden, double check their rules and make a note of the person you spoke with. Once you have all this information you know you can make a start, and should a green-eyed neighbour bubble you to the council and the good people from Building Control come knocking then you have already spoken with Dave from the office etc etc and they should be happy to leave you too it!

            Hope that helps!

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            • Thanks Steve thats really helpful.

              I think my next job will be to inform the building control of what I am doing. Transparency will be better for sure to keep legal.

              I am going to struggle to keep a meter away from the boundary though hopefully this wont cause too many problems.

              I think mine will have to be a "greedy" 30m2 too
              thanks for the sound advice and if you dont mind,I may have to pick your brains again at some point.

              I trust you are reaping the rewards of your room now and knocking in some solid breaks, the stuff of dreams!

              Cant wait..

              All the best

              Luke

              Comment


              • Originally Posted by lukus View Post
                Thanks Steve thats really helpful.

                I think my next job will be to inform the building control of what I am doing. Transparency will be better for sure to keep legal.

                I am going to struggle to keep a meter away from the boundary though hopefully this wont cause too many problems.

                I think mine will have to be a "greedy" 30m2 too
                thanks for the sound advice and if you dont mind,I may have to pick your brains again at some point.

                I trust you are reaping the rewards of your room now and knocking in some solid breaks, the stuff of dreams!

                Cant wait..

                All the best

                Luke
                Great to hear of another snooker room being built. Likewise, Steve really inspired me to get it done. Has been a dream for years. Good luck Luke and do keep us posted. I'll be starting a blog for my build later, like you I am closer to the boundary and decided to go for cavity walls.

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                • Think mines a lot less than a metre of the boundary ,but it was done some years ago so things may have changed .Between the snooker room wall and the fence to next door it’s tight .

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                  • Hi Steve,
                    What company did you get the carpet tiles from? was it Burmatex-Tivoli by any chance?
                    Also, regarding table heating, any reason why you went with 25mm insulation rather than 50mm? also, did what thermostat do you use? it must be WIFI if I'm going to have a crack at it.

                    Comment


                    • EvilDealer, carpet tiles from Fleebay, although the company totally mucked up the order and sent the wrong colour and a few where damaged, in the end I got a full refund and kept the tiles sent.... so I made use of what I had and used them in a pattern, I wouldn’t recommend scrimping in this area, I also wouldn’t recommend the seller I used. Also if you do go for carpet tiles, use a tackifier to help keep them in place!

                      25mm insulation is fine, don’t waste your money on 50mm it’s overkill and expensive! Heat rises at the end of the day, and the 25mm is strong enough to work with and support the heat mat without bending.

                      Here is a link to the Thermostat, its really good combined with the App on my phone. When I’m not using the table I have it set to 21degrees C which stops the slates from dropping right down in temperature, so when I’m thinking about having a game I’ll set it to 25 and in 45mins it’s ready to go! Those temperatures are what the probe beneath the table is picking up, I have the probe touching the back of the slates just above the cross member’s of the frame, so it’s not in direct contact with the mat itself. The surface temperature of the cloth when the thermostat reads 25 is just a warm to the touch feeling, not hot. I’ll have to try and test the surface temperature one day to find out what it is exactly, but for now it seems to be in a good place, the balls run nicely! Also I cover the table at night with its original cover and two king size duvets to help keep the heat in! Works a treat!

                      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inkbird-I....m46890.l49292

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                      • Thanks Steve,
                        I was looking at this thermostat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-WiF...e/222891514597
                        You must have another unit that sits in between? I think the forum needs a master class on how you did it and everything you need

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                        • Hi Evil, once you have all the panels in place under the table you just need them connecting to a standard plug via a DIY fly lead made from the same cable used to wire the mats. The plug then plugs into the ‘heating’ socket on the one I used. Job done! Mount the unit under the table and that plugs into your main supply socket. The probe then pushes up the back of the slates beneath the table. Once you have it all in place I downloaded the ‘TuyaSmart’ app which connects to the box under the table and allows you to control the temp via your mobile, so you don’t need to get under the table again! Simples..

                          The app also controls my heater/air con unit, which is great to have both on the same app!

                          If you go for the one you suggested just make sure you set it to use the probe cable as the sensor (the 2.5m cable supplied is very sort though!) you don’t want it set to use the air temp sensor, else it’ll never work!

                          Steve

                          Comment


                          • Originally Posted by Danger Steve View Post
                            Hi Evil, once you have all the panels in place under the table you just need them connecting to a standard plug via a DIY fly lead made from the same cable used to wire the mats. The plug then plugs into the ‘heating’ socket on the one I used. Job done! Mount the unit under the table and that plugs into your main supply socket. The probe then pushes up the back of the slates beneath the table. Once you have it all in place I downloaded the ‘TuyaSmart’ app which connects to the box under the table and allows you to control the temp via your mobile, so you don’t need to get under the table again! Simples..

                            The app also controls my heater/air con unit, which is great to have both on the same app!

                            If you go for the one you suggested just make sure you set it to use the probe cable as the sensor (the 2.5m cable supplied is very sort though!) you don’t want it set to use the air temp sensor, else it’ll never work!

                            Steve
                            Great stuff, does sound easy. I'm kind of paranoid I'm gonna blow my house up and the adjoining neighbours but I'm up for the challenge!.. Did you earth the plug on the DIY power lead? Those heat mats just use brown and blue so I would wire that into a 13 amp... question is, because its not double insulated then I would be kinda worried, but I am no sparky!

                            Comment


                            • Originally Posted by EvilDealer View Post

                              Great stuff, does sound easy. I'm kind of paranoid I'm gonna blow my house up and the adjoining neighbours but I'm up for the challenge!.. Did you earth the plug on the DIY power lead? Those heat mats just use brown and blue so I would wire that into a 13 amp... question is, because its not double insulated then I would be kinda worried, but I am no sparky!

                              Hey ED! No need to earth the plug, there’s no earth on the mat so it would be useless. I know what your saying regards the wiring blowing things up lol!.. If in doubt just pay a sparky to do that bit for you? If your fuse board is relatively modern it should all be RCD protected.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Steve, Just a quick one regarding the BTU Heater, i noticed you said it vibrates quite a bit. How noisy is it? placement for the external bit is key. I have a lovely peaceful garden atm, I don't want airwolf type noise in the background! plus neighbours wont be to chuffed with me.. Not sure if i should get oil rads instead at the mo

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