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Base/Original Protective Sealer on Maple Cues

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  • #46
    Originally Posted by Ramon View Post
    Thanks Rog ,

    Well,here's a picture from the cue (he was made after a while). And honestly, I just can't imagine a maple any whiter than this.
    I also can show you a video from my brother playing with that cue and you can clearly see that color of maple was'nt changed after he got it .

    Take a look at the picture 2 (Mac cue maple shaft made for me by Richy) And compare it with picture number 3 (Niche Ultimate). Actually the same cue with maple shaft ( except diff spcse and diff design). Atsanan made this one for my brother.

    take a look at the color difference. We could immediately see that these 2 cues were both Oil finished ( NO WAX AT ALL ). But there was 2 different kind of Oil used.
    There are some cue makers who are able to finish the maple with Oil without changing the color. Kevin Deroo is also one of them.

    I did contact ( while ago ) one of these cue makers cuz I was curious what kind of oil he has used.
    Unfortunately I got no answer to my question. His answer was, Yes I do use Oil, but it's Defo NOT raw linseed Oil.
    Which in this case I understand his point of view completely to not answer me. It's part of his job (his secret) and he has the right to give no information related to this issue. ( as you do , btw ).

    My best guess is , they use sum kind of polymerized Oil for maple . I may be wrong though !!


    As someone who plays with maple for a few years, I prefer to buy the maple which has'nt changed from the color and is white. especially if i have to make this decision online and i do'nt get the chance to try the cue.

    This due to 2 reasons :

    1-From my experience and from what I've seen so far, white maple is more stiff compared with dark maple ( generaly ). Since Maple is a denser wood from nature (denser compared with ash), that would be a perfect combination to play this game with. ( stifness and density ).
    of course, has to be said, this is my personal preference.

    2- Once the maple is finished and the color has'nt changed, this makes it for me alot easier to see whether i deal with a piece of clean maple (without small arrows, and other stuff ... ..), Or not. ( Again , my personal perference ).

    Anyway , It's just my view in regards to this matter . ( hope you do'nt mind )

    I also found this website and sum info on it , which i would be glad to hear your opinion with regards to this website ( if u have sum time of crs ).

    http://www.woodworkdetails.com/knowledge/finishing





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    As I've already stated its not possible to not change the colour with a natural oil finish. To obtain a pure water-white finish on any wood product a clear lacquer is often used. A lot of people have recommended danish oil as a finish for maple cues, there are many different kinds of danish oils in the way they are blended, but all contain a lacquer of some sort with an oil base. Depending on the oil base it may be able to achieve something close to no colour change but there will be some.

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    • #47
      Ho can I remake my maple cue white and getting out this raw linseed oil discoloration? Sanding with 600 grit sandpaper is not enough!

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      • #48
        Originally Posted by RogiBear View Post
        As I've already stated its not possible to not change the colour with a natural oil finish. To obtain a pure water-white finish on any wood product a clear lacquer is often used. A lot of people have recommended danish oil as a finish for maple cues, there are many different kinds of danish oils in the way they are blended, but all contain a lacquer of some sort with an oil base. Depending on the oil base it may be able to achieve something close to no colour change but there will be some.
        yeah, absolutely. That could be it. Oil blended with sum kind of stuff to keep it as clean as possible.
        Good point my friend. many thanks for info.
        I appreciate it .

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        • #49
          Originally Posted by Reini0100 View Post
          Ho can I remake my maple cue white and getting out this raw linseed oil discoloration? Sanding with 600 grit sandpaper is not enough!
          You will have to use something a little rougher than that, like 240 grit as 600 will clog to quickly.
          For that one you've always wanted...
          https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/

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          • #50
            Were you not on here a while ago complaining that your cue was gliding through your bridge too easily? And now your maple cue is too golden. I'm not sure you're in the right place.

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