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Century titanium ferrule

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  • fkhan
    replied
    Originally Posted by DeanH View Post

    I remember when this came out and initially MW would not discuss details and many could not envisage what he was describing.
    There is loads of learning here. I've been going through some 10+ years old threads. Nice way to pass time.

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  • DeanH
    replied
    Originally Posted by fkhan View Post
    I remember when this came out and initially MW would not discuss details and many could not envisage what he was describing.

    Leave a comment:


  • fkhan
    replied
    Yes, the blackspin ferrule:

    https://www.thesnookerforum.co.uk/bo...ferrule-system

    Leave a comment:


  • vmax
    replied
    BTW I also have some buffalo horn that I got from the states, it's black in colour with some lighter streaks in it, about 15mm in diameter and about 25mm high with no hole so needs to be cut to size and drilled, but it's quite strong and very light. I can't weigh it until it's been machined to fit but I'll bet it's lighter than anything else.

    https://ibb.co/album/6829bS

    Leave a comment:


  • Neil Taperell
    replied
    Wasn’t that the ‘ Blackspin ‘ ferrule ?

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  • Mark187187
    replied
    I was thinking of one called the bullseye or something like that, although this one seems a similar concept- it's not just a different ferrule, he drills into the tip end of the shaft and fills the hole with a mystery material

    Leave a comment:


  • ADR147
    replied
    Originally Posted by frazz View Post
    There's actually more pros using them than u realise and a few more high end pros switching....you'll see at the world. I got one put on a new praram cue off of Craig Fitzpatrick at greenbaize just before lockdown, I love it. This one is a slip on and not a threaded one, they changed them to slip on ones so the new versions are slip on and completely smooth outer compared to like a ridged outer on the threaded
    This is a better idea in my humble opinion mate.

    Leave a comment:


  • frazz
    replied
    There's actually more pros using them than u realise and a few more high end pros switching....you'll see at the world. I got one put on a new praram cue off of Craig Fitzpatrick at greenbaize just before lockdown, I love it. This one is a slip on and not a threaded one, they changed them to slip on ones so the new versions are slip on and completely smooth outer compared to like a ridged outer on the threaded

    Leave a comment:


  • matthias
    replied
    Originally Posted by vmax View Post
    Here's the dimensions and weights of the ferrules I have,

    10mm diameter threaded brass 7mm high 2.5g
    10mm diameter threaded s/steel 7mm high 2.7g
    10mm diameter plain brass 8mm high 2g
    10mm diameter toothed brass 8mm high 2g
    10mm diameter plain aluminium 10mm high 1.1g
    10mm diameter thin walled plain brass 8mm high 1.5g
    10mm diameter thin walled plain brass 4mm high 0.5g
    9mm diameter thin walled plain brass 7mm high 1.6g
    10mm diameter plain black plastic 10mm high 0.9g
    now the titanium deflection because of weight/end mass discussion is completely off the table with the heaviest brass only 2.5 gram which would only make it about a 1 gram heavier than a titanium one

    Leave a comment:


  • vmax
    replied
    Originally Posted by kramer8 View Post
    Does anyone have any views on those thick walled, heavy, screw on brass ferrules? Are the thin walled brass ferrules that you just slip onto the cue better simply because you don't have to pay someone to have the diameter of your tenon reduced? I hated trying to screw the thick walled ones on. I think it damages the wood for no good reason. Did any top pros ever use the thick ones or was it just a gimmick that didn't work? The titanium ones that I see online look like they have threads although I thought I read that they were supposed to be smooth. Does anyone have one that can tell us?
    Some pros can't even fit their own tips so probably don't know what kind of ferrule they have fitted.
    Most ferrules have an internal thread, I use them when making cues, I also use plain ones and recently bought some with internal teeth that bite into the tenon which work very well as they don't have to be glued like the plain ones do, but I glue them anyway.
    When I use an internal thread ferrule they are 10mm in diameter, but after the final few sandings of the shaft and finishing they end up around 9.5mm so the wall ends up thinner, they can be sanded down to 9mm actually as the wall of a 10mm one is thick enough for that so you can have a 9mm internal thread ferrule with thin walls.

    Here's the dimensions and weights of the ferrules I have,

    10mm diameter threaded brass 7mm high 2.5g
    10mm diameter threaded s/steel 7mm high 2.7g
    10mm diameter plain brass 8mm high 2g
    10mm diameter toothed brass 8mm high 2g
    10mm diameter plain aluminium 10mm high 1.1g
    10mm diameter thin walled plain brass 8mm high 1.5g
    10mm diameter thin walled plain brass 4mm high 0.5g
    9mm diameter thin walled plain brass 7mm high 1.6g
    10mm diameter plain black plastic 10mm high 0.9g

    The aluminium ones I get from work as they are used as infills on some products, they have a thick wall so I drill them out before fitting so the weight of one of them would be even less than shown. The plastic ones I also get from work, left overs from a run of 500,000 thingymebobs for an order a couple of years ago, they work fine as ferrules but also have thick walls and need to be drilled out, which can be a bitch as the heat from the drilling softens them so I do it in stages. :devilish:

    Leave a comment:


  • matthias
    replied
    [QUOTE=itsnoteasy;n999747]

    I'm definitely with you on that, I don't care , just a daft discussion on the internet, it passes some time. The truth is, if you find something you like and you think it helps you, it will and you will probably play better as a result of that.[/QUOTE]

    hahaha, untill you miss a sitter and you're back to square one

    but it's a lot cheaper than changing cues, (which I tend to do.....) so that's a plus, I think I might need one now....... hahaha
    Last edited by matthias; 9 July 2020, 06:46 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fkhan
    replied
    Originally Posted by Mark187187 View Post
    I don't think that little difference in end-mass makes much difference on a snooker cue. The tip is so small anyway. I have tried low-deflection american pool cues with 12.5-13mm tips, and the difference is very noticeable with regards cue ball deflection when using side. Those cues have short plastic ferrules, and often have the end of the cue below the ferrule drilled out and filled with something lighter than wood. Cue shafts by Predator and until recently OB and a few others are quite a big deal, and big money spinners for those companies, so I wouldn't rule out the principles involved, just how well they translate to small tipped cues. Didn't Mike Woolridge do something similar a while back that someone on here might have tried out?
    This one?

    https://handmadecues.com/product/fer...ack-composite/

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark187187
    replied
    I don't think that little difference in end-mass makes much difference on a snooker cue. The tip is so small anyway. I have tried low-deflection american pool cues with 12.5-13mm tips, and the difference is very noticeable with regards cue ball deflection when using side. Those cues have short plastic ferrules, and often have the end of the cue below the ferrule drilled out and filled with something lighter than wood. Cue shafts by Predator and until recently OB and a few others are quite a big deal, and big money spinners for those companies, so I wouldn't rule out the principles involved, just how well they translate to small tipped cues. Didn't Mike Woolridge do something similar a while back that someone on here might have tried out?

    Leave a comment:


  • kramer8
    replied
    Does anyone have any views on those thick walled, heavy, screw on brass ferrules? Are the thin walled brass ferrules that you just slip onto the cue better simply because you don't have to pay someone to have the diameter of your tenon reduced? I hated trying to screw the thick walled ones on. I think it damages the wood for no good reason. Did any top pros ever use the thick ones or was it just a gimmick that didn't work? The titanium ones that I see online look like they have threads although I thought I read that they were supposed to be smooth. Does anyone have one that can tell us?

    Leave a comment:


  • Cue crafty
    replied
    Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post

    On the MOHs scale, which measures the hardness of metals Brass is rated 3 and Titanium is rated 6 so should not wear as much or scratch as easily as a brass ferrule.
    I have no idea why I looked that up, but it was in teresting to me.
    it is interesting also because its lighter and therefore should play a part in how the strike is delivered to the cue ball. I played with a stainless steel ferrule for a while and felt i got more throw than i was used of (or liked) so went back to brass cos i know where i stand. irate:

    Could have been the cue but,,, Its fun to mess around when you got time but most of us dont have that freedom... yet.

    Last edited by Cue crafty; 8 July 2020, 08:56 PM.

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