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Help - Thuya Burr wood splice

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  • #16
    If you don't send them an e mail you will regret it, honestly. Even if it costs to ship it back I'm sure Robert will pay if your not happy.
    Forget it, Donny, you're out of your element

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    • #17
      just called, Will answered the phone. he said that is the nature of the wood, nothing to be worried about, and the hole is sealed.
      he suggested i use very fine sand paper to sand the edge off, it is probably the wood is not settled down completely and just shrinked a little bit.

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      • #18
        Hmmmmmmm
        I've got a Trevor White with a Thuya splice never felt any great bumps or holes.
        Sounds like a bit of a fob off.
        You have to be careful sanding Burr it scratches easily.

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Chrystal View Post
          just called, Will answered the phone. he said that is the nature of the wood, nothing to be worried about, and the hole is sealed.
          he suggested i use very fine sand paper to sand the edge off, it is probably the wood is not settled down completely and just shrinked a little bit.
          i think he is right - go over it with very fine wire wool then wipe it with raw linseed oil.
          https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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          • #20
            sandpaper + cue butt sounds like such a bad idea, but if you have to, use something finer than 600 grit just to make sure...

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by Chrystal View Post
              just called, Will answered the phone. he said that is the nature of the wood, nothing to be worried about, and the hole is sealed.
              he suggested i use very fine sand paper to sand the edge off, it is probably the wood is not settled down completely and just shrinked a little bit.

              I don't really want to get into this and comment on another makers work, but, to clarify a few points.......

              Although it is the nature of thuya to display these hollows in the texture of the timber, it can be sealed well, even if oil finished. There is not really any need to lacquer or varnish it to get it finished really well.

              Obviously, timber of the same species will be variable from one piece to another, but I've never come across a piece of thuya that cannot be sealed pretty well, even if it is quite open in it's texture. Some burr timber will have a far more open and coarse natural texture than thuya does. Timber such as oak or elm are very open grained and would be difficult to fill and seal adequately, but thuya, not so bad at all.

              Also, if there is a piece of the splicing which is ragged or uneven at some point, then this may be due to movement in the glueline. That can be due to a number of things, such as a slightly higher moisture content of the wood than would be desirable when gluing, or exposure to extreme temperatures during transit to Australia.

              Whatever the issue is with that, I am surprised that you've been told to "sand it", that really could open a can of worms. Doing anything like this would not be advisable unless you have some experience of working with your hands and timber to some level. It can go SO wrong.

              Lastly, DO NOT use wire / steel wool and then linseed oil if there is any area showing raised grain or glueline fracture. Wire wool can get lodged into any tiny little open part of glueline or timber and cause as much, if not more harm than it could ever solve. If you have to do something with this yourself, use very fine abrasive (like car body repairers) and no coarser than maybe 800 grit.

              The problem is though, that sanding it back will only disguise the problem, and will not cure it. To get it done properly you'll need to re-seal the parts which have raised / come apart, and that's a different game altogther.

              I can't say I know Will or Robert, but, from what I have heard they are top guys to deal with, so I'd get in touch and explain your issues. I'm sure they'll resolve them.

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              • #22
                HI Trevor,
                Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. It is always a delight to ready your extremely knowledgable and informative post.
                If you dont mind me asking, would you mind to comment on how in your opinion should one finish and seal burr?
                Would you recommend using super glue, shellac, varnish...or just oil? In you post you said even oil could be sufficient but I am just wondering if there is in your opinion better ways to do it?
                Thank you so much.
                www.AuroraCues.com

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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by ADR147 View Post
                  ..... go over it with very fine wire wool then wipe it with raw linseed oil.
                  Originally Posted by trevs1 View Post
                  ......DO NOT use wire / steel wool and then linseed oil ......
                  Thats twice Trevors had a go at you ADR147 did you forget his christmas card or something

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by jrc750 View Post
                    Thats twice Trevors had a go at you ADR147 did you forget his christmas card or something
                    lol - maybe he should answer his phone! i can't see an issue with very fine wire wool.
                    https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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                    • #25
                      Thanks Trevor,

                      it is really helpful, I did use very fine sand paper to sand it off the other day. but i can still see it is not spliced properly, and left tiny scratch marks on burr wood.

                      after sanding it off, i do not feel the scratch , but i can still feel the splice point is not even.
                      Will did say the same thing to me regarding how to seal the holes, use the oil a couple of times to seal it.

                      To be honest, even it gets repaired i would still feel bad.

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                      • #26
                        to be honest, i am not intended to send cue back as i am afraid it would get worse.

                        and i am planning to get a new cue.

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                        • #27
                          Can you post pictures so we can see what exactly is wrong with it?
                          sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

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                          • #28
                            I will when I get home tonight

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                            • #29
                              hi, guys

                              I have attache pic, hopefully it is clear.
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                650 for a cue only to buy a new one, ouch

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