Originally Posted by Shockerz
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Postyeah i went halfway with the chisel then carefully pealed it of with a blade.
iv pressed a few elks before and they came out okay but the ones you sent feel like they got something more about them. will have a knock tomorrow and do a vid..
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Originally Posted by vmax4steve View PostYes, I've taken out all the little bumps and both are now straight, smooth and re-tapered. Thanks for allaying my concerns over the old joint as a weak spot, might re-splice them but also might just 3/4 split them,
cheers
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Posti approach it as if its just another shaft. but its all the lumps and bumps that make it tricky when it come to doing a neat job.. i take it youve never done it yet or you have and it was a bad experience?
i find most machine splices to be very stable and tightly glued so, there wouldnt be a problem unless the woods are brittle, then its about being very careful.
another thing is the re-weighting and re-tapering, thats when it starts to becomes your own and its just another shaft and you forget that there ever was other splices on there.
not easy, tougher than making a cue from scratch imo
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cheers
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Originally Posted by Shockerz View PostGetting the hardness and the grip is the balance so it'll be interesting to see how it goes as the jury's out whether to use milk or just compress Elks (but that's for another thread!).
You did well to get the splice off without any splitting mate.
iv pressed a few elks before and they came out okay but the ones you sent feel like they got something more about them. will have a knock tomorrow and do a vid..
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Originally Posted by vmax4steve View PostRun of the mill brown butts j6, don't know the exact species of timber used. What I mean is you plane the old splice tips down to the end of the butt for the new wood to be glued on, right ?
i approach it as if its just another shaft. but its all the lumps and bumps that make it tricky when it come to doing a neat job.. i take it youve never done it yet or you have and it was a bad experience?
i find most machine splices to be very stable and tightly glued so, there wouldnt be a problem unless the woods are brittle, then its about being very careful.
another thing is the re-weighting and re-tapering, thats when it starts to becomes your own and its just another shaft and you forget that there ever was other splices on there.
not easy, tougher than making a cue from scratch imo
-Last edited by j6uk; 10 November 2016, 11:40 AM.
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Posti dont quite get what you mean vmax, have you some pics of the cues, what type of butt woods we talking about?, and your wanting to do a full splice like above?
What of the original timber remains at the original glued joint to ensure that that is not a weak spot under the new butt timber.
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Postthe tip does feel hard but for me the harder the better, gives me a better reading of the shaft..
as for the front splice no, i just chiseled it off. im gonna recycle the maple part
You did well to get the splice off without any splitting mate.
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Originally Posted by Shockerz View PostLooking nice again J.
I was sweating for you looking at the chisel take the top splice off. How did you separate the glue, hot water?
Let me know how the tip plays as done a few different types with the elks for club players; some love em and want some spares and others don't like the hardness so have been experimenting with compression.Also been experimenting with leather hardening techniques and nearly tooka chunk out of a cue ball the other day it was so hard!
Liking the look of the thinner ferrule as well.
as for the front splice no, i just chiseled it off. im gonna recycle the maple part
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Looking nice again J.
I was sweating for you looking at the chisel take the top splice off. How did you separate the glue, hot water?
Let me know how the tip plays as done a few different types with the elks for club players; some love em and want some spares and others don't like the hardness so have been experimenting with compression.Also been experimenting with leather hardening techniques and nearly tooka chunk out of a cue ball the other day it was so hard!
Liking the look of the thinner ferrule as well.
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Looking nice again J.
I was sweating for you looking at the chisel take the top splice off. How did you separate the glue, hot water?
Let me know how the tip plays as done a few different types with the elks for club players; some love em and want some spares and others don't like the hardness so have been experimenting with compression.Also been experimenting with leather hardening techniques and nearly tooka chunk out of a cue ball the other day it was so hard!
Liking the look of the thinner ferrule as well.
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very nice work! i'd love to have a go at splicing an old cue.
I'm hopefully starting a beginners carpentry course soon and hopefully build my son a cue by shortening an old one piece and maybe add a splice or 4!
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Originally Posted by vmax4steve View PostI have a couple of old machine spliced cues that I'm refurbishing j6, I'm dubious about doing a complete re-splice as I'm not sure that what the new splices will glue onto is sufficient to keep the cue together after half the original hardwood is planed off.
You have done a number of these cues, so in your experience is the remainder of the glued on original butt together with the new splices enough to hold the cue together ?
i dont quite get what you mean vmax, have you some pics of the cues, what type of butt woods we talking about?, and your wanting to do a full splice like above?
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