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yeah something like that, planing bits here and there. if you can get them aligned when cutting down from the square then your moving in the right direction
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostDo you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?
Doesn't happen to boards air-dried in stacks over twelve years, no internal stresses see. Go natural. :biggrin-new:
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Do you have to plane more on one side of the shaft to kind of bring them back round into line ?
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostIf it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
im still learning but as far im finding im able to cut them twists out providing the shaft is over enough. but every piece of wood feels different so
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If it's not a trade secret , how do you go about keeping the arrows going straight up the shaft, if they naturally want to twist?
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Originally Posted by jono* View Posttechnique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...
as far as the physical feeling of playing with a slightly thinner butted cue say between 27-28.5mm, i find being able to wrap the hand comfortably around the cue while still keeping a loose consistent so called grip works. and i think thats why a lot of tour players go under 29mm
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technique.. although from here you can pretty much play with anything...
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Originally Posted by grimreaper View PostLooks good now has a new lease on life as a cue.
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