Chuck.jpgTailstock.jpgSteady.jpgLathe Bars.jpgJig.jpg
The steady marks the cues a little so trying to find something a little softer on the shafts.
Had a couple of old ash rests that were being thrown out and replaced for new ones that seem like balsa wood. Put the old rests on the lathes and took all the dinks out and sanded them, look good as new now so will take them back down there.
I did disc cut the lathe headstock and tailstock when adapting it and then re centred using a laser level (probably a bit of overkill!)
I also made a jig for when I get a dust extractor but that's proving to be a difficult one to find
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As for tapering, I like the Andy Hunter video for how he cuts a piece of wood or even the Mike Wooldridge one.
Once I learn the methods I don't really want to make the cue on the lathe as I would like to develop the woodworking skills.
I was only interested in football at school and played truant so we play at the local parks so missed out on all that stuff but love the smell of wood and have time on my hands now.
It's amazing what growing up does for you and seeing Jeremy Kyle on the tele drives me toward the garage!
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Postiv look into that a little. i take it you'll be using it for tapering the splices, an maybe shafts? or would you too convert it to drill and cut ferrles?
At present I use it for refurbishing cues and especially old rests. Madly, I'm still tempted to cut a ferule using a sharpened spanner as I still can't see why it is that different from using a chisel after seeing the video I found.
I'll probably try and see how far I can drill with success before I decide what I can and can't do.
Basically still playing at the moment. Looking for a second steady that doesn't mark the shaft; ball races don't seem to have anything soft or rubber in the middle.
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Originally Posted by Shockerz View PostI've been playing with a record one and extended it.
Looking at a steady to see if I can keep the tip end free.
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I've been playing with a record one and extended it.
Looking at a steady to see if I can keep the tip end free.
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theres a fella i go an see once in a while when iv made a few cues an he cuts the ferrules an drills the weight holes
i am thinking of getting a small lathe for the ferrules or creating a bespoke one from scratch. but things are okay right now, though i dont like having to rely on someone to get stuff done
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i have cut them in the past by hand too, but now the ferrules and weights are done on a lathe.
i cut the shaft down to 13mm - 31mm
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Yeah like it.
Do you normally fit them with so much wood to take off still (like the cue on the right)?
How are you cutting the dowel? I normally do mine by hand but have thought about buying one of the tweetens tools, look expensive though.
Nice ferules though.
Keep it up.
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a few facts about the handwood merbau/ipil an gaboon ebony
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-...dwoods/merbau/
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-.../gaboon-ebony/
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thanks wootton, i will try an get some good black ebony an maple at some point..
heres another shaft i got to the finishing stage. this one is the best so far that iv done competly with my hand plane, no sandpaper has been used yet. i followed the grain patten, pure planing with no flats and no twists
Last edited by j6uk; 10 November 2015, 07:35 PM.
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Spent the last few hours reading this post from start to finish... As someone who never really put any thought into the making of cues, this really is an eye opener and makes me appreciate the effort that cue makers go through. Think it is great that you have taken the effort to show people what you are up to and your standard of work looks great.
If you ever get on to making maple cues I would be really interested in buying one. I do agree with others regarding ebony btw, nothing looks better than a nice maple shaft and a plain ebony butt.
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