Oil or Wax

[Shockerz]

High grit wet and dry is probably better to use on ash than wire wool mate

Yeah I was doing that until I read Mike Wooldridge uses the 0000 steel wool between coats to make it extra smooth and it did come up really well.

I thought if it was good enough for him it's worth a go.

Just experimenting on different cues at the moment to see what types of finish they bring and how much effort needs to be put in, interesting to see some many variances from people.

[D3nzil]

Hi Gents,
Any idea where the step by step guide is for the Aurora Cue Oil? I just got some and grain filler but the website now has gone? Does anyone have it that they can email me? I'd like to do it that first then alter to my finish I'd like.

[mrbluejay]

Hi Gents,
Any idea where the step by step guide is for the Aurora Cue Oil? I just got some and grain filler but the website now has gone? Does anyone have it that they can email me? I'd like to do it that first then alter to my finish I'd like.

RIP Airin

[D3nzil]

I'm lost on that one could you enlightened me

[mrbluejay]

I'm lost on that one could you enlightened me

If you are referring to my comment, you might be better off searching for Aurora in the search function...I couldn't do the story justice.

[D3nzil]

ah huh your right thanks mate must of got a lucky pot then!

[DeanH]

ah huh your right thanks mate must of got a lucky pot then!

not that, they are still in business (abet sometimes slow in replying to communications)

I say "they" advisedly

[mrbluejay]

not that, they are still in business (abet sometimes slow in replying to communications)

I say "they" advisedly

The website has now been closed Dean, haven't seen much on their eBay site either - just oil?

[DeanH]

ah, when did this happen?

- any one see any new make of cues coming out of Canada appearing recently? :biggrin:

[Shockerz]

Hi Gents,
Any idea where the step by step guide is for the Aurora Cue Oil? I just got some and grain filler but the website now has gone? Does anyone have it that they can email me? I'd like to do it that first then alter to my finish I'd like.

Off the top of my head, the grain filler went something like the following:

Step1:
Make sure the shaft is free from grease, wax, oil and what not.
If you are not sure, use alcohol and wipe your shaft down several times until it feels very dry and clean to the touch.
I recommend using Mr. Clean magic eraser if you have applied some oil to the grains prior to this step.
Magic eraser dipped in alcohol can reach deep into the pores to "dig" out oil and dirts inside the grains.
Aurora ash sealer will not work very well if your shaft is oily or greasy or has some kind of "stuff" on it.
Step2:
Rub Aurora ash sealer a bit at a time into the grains of the shaft.
Work in small areas and use a tiny bit at a time.
There is no need to flood the shaft. Leave to dry afterward.
As you can see here I did not flood the whole shaft.
The lower part of the shaft was still very white, while the upper part was being worked on.
You want to look for white spots on the shaft.
When you see those white spots, please re-apply a bit more sealer to cover them up.
As you can see only a very small amount of sealer was used, the bottle still looks almost full.

P.S. Please clean up the opening of the bottle after you are finished. The sealer might otherwise solidify and "glue" the cap to the bottle.
The chance of this happening is very very slim but I still need to mention it just in case.

After the whole shaft was covered evenly, I waited 1-2 hours for the sealer to completely dry off.
If you can wait over night it is even better.
This sealer once dried is water proof and will protect your shaft from moisture.
The sealer is a bit elastic so it will not shrink or fall off when the wood moves due to temperature and/or humidity changes in the future.
Step3:
Use a sanding block and sand away the black sealer on the surface of the shaft.
Do not use very coarse sandpaper as that can take the sealer away.
250 grits and up is recommended--work along the grains and try to take all black sealer off the surface of the shaft gently.

Be patient when you sand, do not apply too much pressure and do not stay at one spot too long..


Step4:
Once all excess sealer has been removed, sand the shaft to smooth with 400, 600, 800, 1000 and up.
Note: The smoother you can make the shaft the better it will feel in your hand in the future.
If you want a smooth feeling shaft you should try to sand up to 2000 or even 3000.
Please wait at least 3-4 hours before proceeding to the next step because if the sealer is not completely dry, it could feel a bit sticky once mixed with cue oil.
Step5:
After the shaft is sanded and polished smooth, and the sealer has completely dried off, apply a bit of Aurora cue oil on a piece of tissue and rub it along the grains of the shaft.
Step6:
wait 30 minites then wipe off all the excess oil and leave to dry overnight.
Step7:
Buff your shaft with a clean towel until it is warm to the touch.

Note: You may repeat step5-6 until you have achieved the look that you want. Aurora cue oil is meant to be applied in very thin coats so please do not over dose it.

Step1:
Make sure the shaft is free from grease, wax, oil and what not.
If you are not sure, use alcohol and wipe your shaft down several times until it feels very dry and clean to the touch.
I recommend using Mr. Clean magic eraser if you have applied some oil to the grains prior to this step.
Magic eraser dipped in alcohol can reach deep into the pores to "dig" out oil and dirts inside the grains.
Aurora ash sealer will not work very well if your shaft is oily or greasy or has some kind of "stuff" on it.
Step2:
Rub Aurora ash sealer a bit at a time into the grains of the shaft.
Work in small areas and use a tiny bit at a time.
There is no need to flood the shaft. Leave to dry afterward.
As you can see here I did not flood the whole shaft.
The lower part of the shaft was still very white, while the upper part was being worked on.
You want to look for white spots on the shaft.
When you see those white spots, please re-apply a bit more sealer to cover them up.
As you can see only a very small amount of sealer was used, the bottle still looks almost full.

P.S. Please clean up the opening of the bottle after you are finished. The sealer might otherwise solidify and "glue" the cap to the bottle.
The chance of this happening is very very slim but I still need to mention it just in case.

After the whole shaft was covered evenly, I waited 1-2 hours for the sealer to completely dry off.
If you can wait over night it is even better.
This sealer once dried is water proof and will protect your shaft from moisture.
The sealer is a bit elastic so it will not shrink or fall off when the wood moves due to temperature and/or humidity changes in the future.
Step3:
Use a sanding block and sand away the black sealer on the surface of the shaft.
Do not use very coarse sandpaper as that can take the sealer away.
250 grits and up is recommended--work along the grains and try to take all black sealer off the surface of the shaft gently.

Be patient when you sand, do not apply too much pressure and do not stay at one spot too long..


Step4:
Once all excess sealer has been removed, sand the shaft to smooth with 400, 600, 800, 1000 and up.
Note: The smoother you can make the shaft the better it will feel in your hand in the future.
If you want a smooth feeling shaft you should try to sand up to 2000 or even 3000.
Please wait at least 3-4 hours before proceeding to the next step because if the sealer is not completely dry, it could feel a bit sticky once mixed with cue oil.
Step5:
After the shaft is sanded and polished smooth, and the sealer has completely dried off, apply a bit of Aurora cue oil on a piece of tissue and rub it along the grains of the shaft.
Step6:
wait 30 minites then wipe off all the excess oil and leave to dry overnight.
Step7:
Buff your shaft with a clean towel until it is warm to the touch.

Note: You may repeat step5-6 until you have achieved the look that you want. Aurora cue oil is meant to be applied in very thin coats so please do not over dose it.

[D3nzil]

Thanks mate next time your in my town call In for a game and the beers are on me very much and appreciated cheers

[Shockerz]

No Problem.

Hope you get the same results I did.

[Byrom]

Off the top of my head, the grain filler went something like the following:

Step1:
Make sure the shaft is free from grease, wax, oil and what not.
If you are not sure, use alcohol and wipe your shaft down several times until it feels very dry and clean to the touch.
I recommend using Mr. Clean magic eraser if you have applied some oil to the grains prior to this step.
Magic eraser dipped in alcohol can reach deep into the pores to "dig" out oil and dirts inside the grains.
Aurora ash sealer will not work very well if your shaft is oily or greasy or has some kind of "stuff" on it.
Step2:
Rub Aurora ash sealer a bit at a time into the grains of the shaft.
Work in small areas and use a tiny bit at a time.
There is no need to flood the shaft. Leave to dry afterward.
As you can see here I did not flood the whole shaft.
The lower part of the shaft was still very white, while the upper part was being worked on.
You want to look for white spots on the shaft.
When you see those white spots, please re-apply a bit more sealer to cover them up.
As you can see only a very small amount of sealer was used, the bottle still looks almost full.

P.S. Please clean up the opening of the bottle after you are finished. The sealer might otherwise solidify and "glue" the cap to the bottle.
The chance of this happening is very very slim but I still need to mention it just in case.

After the whole shaft was covered evenly, I waited 1-2 hours for the sealer to completely dry off.
If you can wait over night it is even better.
This sealer once dried is water proof and will protect your shaft from moisture.
The sealer is a bit elastic so it will not shrink or fall off when the wood moves due to temperature and/or humidity changes in the future.
Step3:
Use a sanding block and sand away the black sealer on the surface of the shaft.
Do not use very coarse sandpaper as that can take the sealer away.
250 grits and up is recommended--work along the grains and try to take all black sealer off the surface of the shaft gently.

Be patient when you sand, do not apply too much pressure and do not stay at one spot too long..


Step4:
Once all excess sealer has been removed, sand the shaft to smooth with 400, 600, 800, 1000 and up.
Note: The smoother you can make the shaft the better it will feel in your hand in the future.
If you want a smooth feeling shaft you should try to sand up to 2000 or even 3000.
Please wait at least 3-4 hours before proceeding to the next step because if the sealer is not completely dry, it could feel a bit sticky once mixed with cue oil.
Step5:
After the shaft is sanded and polished smooth, and the sealer has completely dried off, apply a bit of Aurora cue oil on a piece of tissue and rub it along the grains of the shaft.
Step6:
wait 30 minites then wipe off all the excess oil and leave to dry overnight.
Step7:
Buff your shaft with a clean towel until it is warm to the touch.

Note: You may repeat step5-6 until you have achieved the look that you want. Aurora cue oil is meant to be applied in very thin coats so please do not over dose it.

Step1:
Make sure the shaft is free from grease, wax, oil and what not.
If you are not sure, use alcohol and wipe your shaft down several times until it feels very dry and clean to the touch.
I recommend using Mr. Clean magic eraser if you have applied some oil to the grains prior to this step.
Magic eraser dipped in alcohol can reach deep into the pores to "dig" out oil and dirts inside the grains.
Aurora ash sealer will not work very well if your shaft is oily or greasy or has some kind of "stuff" on it.
Step2:
Rub Aurora ash sealer a bit at a time into the grains of the shaft.
Work in small areas and use a tiny bit at a time.
There is no need to flood the shaft. Leave to dry afterward.
As you can see here I did not flood the whole shaft.
The lower part of the shaft was still very white, while the upper part was being worked on.
You want to look for white spots on the shaft.
When you see those white spots, please re-apply a bit more sealer to cover them up.
As you can see only a very small amount of sealer was used, the bottle still looks almost full.

P.S. Please clean up the opening of the bottle after you are finished. The sealer might otherwise solidify and "glue" the cap to the bottle.
The chance of this happening is very very slim but I still need to mention it just in case.

After the whole shaft was covered evenly, I waited 1-2 hours for the sealer to completely dry off.
If you can wait over night it is even better.
This sealer once dried is water proof and will protect your shaft from moisture.
The sealer is a bit elastic so it will not shrink or fall off when the wood moves due to temperature and/or humidity changes in the future.
Step3:
Use a sanding block and sand away the black sealer on the surface of the shaft.
Do not use very coarse sandpaper as that can take the sealer away.
250 grits and up is recommended--work along the grains and try to take all black sealer off the surface of the shaft gently.

Be patient when you sand, do not apply too much pressure and do not stay at one spot too long..


Step4:
Once all excess sealer has been removed, sand the shaft to smooth with 400, 600, 800, 1000 and up.
Note: The smoother you can make the shaft the better it will feel in your hand in the future.
If you want a smooth feeling shaft you should try to sand up to 2000 or even 3000.
Please wait at least 3-4 hours before proceeding to the next step because if the sealer is not completely dry, it could feel a bit sticky once mixed with cue oil.
Step5:
After the shaft is sanded and polished smooth, and the sealer has completely dried off, apply a bit of Aurora cue oil on a piece of tissue and rub it along the grains of the shaft.
Step6:
wait 30 minites then wipe off all the excess oil and leave to dry overnight.
Step7:
Buff your shaft with a clean towel until it is warm to the touch.

Note: You may repeat step5-6 until you have achieved the look that you want. Aurora cue oil is meant to be applied in very thin coats so please do not over dose it.

Or can we just send the cue to you an give you 20 quid to sort it out Mr OCD?

great post by the way

[mikeyd100]

For an "off the top off my head" post that was genius haha

[Shockerz]

Would love to refinish everyone's cues but too busy cleaning the car with a toothbrush; it's the only way you know.