Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

[anish147]

Is the oil supposed to permeate the wax, or sit on it?

Sit on it.

That's why I prefer a natural wax on the cue to nourish the wood and protect it. The Tru-oil could be used on it's own as it should also nourish the wood, but I prefer using the wax.

It works for me...but obviously there are many ways to get a great shine

[anish147]

No worries mate.

Just to confirm, you use the Fiddes wax first on the whole cue or just the shaft?

I think what we are surprised is the use of oil on top of wax if this is the case as normally I would remove wax before applying oil, just me though.

Yep, I fully appreciate oil on wax sounds odd. Tru-oil is not your usual oil. Watch a couple of YouTube videos - there's one in particular by a German guy I think who compares the finish of about 5 different oils on a block of wood.

Tru-oil will dry and leave a thin film, and I assume it's this thin film that eventually produces the nice gloss. So I use Fiddes wax to protect the whole cue, then just a few layers of Tru-oil afterwards on the butt to maybe 2 inches above the splices for added shine. If it didn't leave the film, I probably wouldn't bother as I couldn't see how it would permeate the wax, which is your point

[blahblah01]

Apologies for carrying on the daft questions...

Is it a slippery as it is shiny?

[blahblah01]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk

Top Comment here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APO1wwm359Q may be of interest.

[anish147]

Apologies for carrying on the daft questions...

Is it a slippery as it is shiny?

No problem. It's not slippery at all...if anything, it may be the opposite...not sticky but slightly tacky. I wouldn't do the shaft with it as I think it would potentially make cueing a little less smooth.


There are videos on YouTube on Tru-oil being used to finish guitars - and if you imagine a glossy guitar, that's kind of how the cue butt will end up.

I've only done it to a couple of my cues so far, as the steel wool/waxing can be done in a day, but I leave the Tru-oil over night before each coat so it takes time. Definitely watch some Tru-oil finishing videos as the key is super thin layers but as many layers as your patience can tolerate. With each additional layer, the gloss improves.

[anish147]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk

Top Comment here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APO1wwm359Q may be of interest.

Those are the videos - plenty more too, but they all say pretty much the same thing after a while...thin, multiple layers, dry overnight between each layer, I use steel wool very lightly indeed between first and second layer for added smoothness.

[blahblah01]

No problem. It's not slippery at all...if anything, it may be the opposite...not sticky but slightly tacky. I wouldn't do the shaft with it as I think it would potentially make cueing a little less smooth.

That has tempted me: as I struggle with a slippery Butt...

[blahblah01]

re the Comment in that Vid, the Thinner is helps with a thin coat and quicker drying time.....

Those are the videos - plenty more too, but they all say pretty much the same thing after a while...thin, multiple layers, dry overnight between each layer, I use steel wool very lightly indeed between first and second layer for added smoothness.

Any reason why the wool over 3000 grade paper?

[anish147]

re the Comment in that Vid, the Thinner is helps with a thin coat and quicker drying time.....



Any reason why the wool over 3000 grade paper?

Thinner also helps because you're less likely to introduce thick/thin layers - ie you'll be more consistent in achieving a super smooth finish without lumps or bumps. For me, the quicker drying is neither here nor there because I'm leaving it overnight anyway.

3000 grade perfectly fine. In fact, I used 3000 grade then a soft cloth to buff on the second cue I did

[blahblah01]

Thanks for explaining all this

[anish147]

Yep, I fully appreciate oil on wax sounds odd. Tru-oil is not your usual oil. Watch a couple of YouTube videos - there's one in particular by a German guy I think who compares the finish of about 5 different oils on a block of wood.

Tru-oil will dry and leave a thin film, and I assume it's this thin film that eventually produces the nice gloss. So I use Fiddes wax to protect the whole cue, then just a few layers of Tru-oil afterwards on the butt to maybe 2 inches above the splices for added shine. If it didn't leave the film, I probably wouldn't bother as I couldn't see how it would permeate the wax, which is your point

Shockerz - if you have some of this Tru-oil, try it on top of one of the cues you've already finished off and after a few coats it would be good to see if you think there's a better shine. Sometimes I convince myself there's a difference but it may just be in my head!

Another tip - if using Tru-oil - do NOT peel off the seal on the bottle - just make a smallish hole in the seal. Once you've used what you need, put some tape on top of the seal to cover the hole. If you don't do this, when you come back to the bottle after a few weeks, you'll find it contains hardened bits of the edges that have dried up, and you'll struggle to apply it in thin layers and avoid bumps - good tip from another YouTube video somewhere!

[blahblah01]

So: lol

Pierce film\foil seal on Tru Oil

Pour\squirt enough into Glass Jar, with Thinner

Tape over the pierced film\foil.

Do not stir the mixture too vigourously ie avoid bubbles. (found on youtube somewhere)

Apply thin covering to Butt, and leave over night.

Buff (300o ish paper or the dreaded Wire Wool stuff) and repeat until shiny, shiny....

[Shockerz]

Shockerz - if you have some of this Tru-oil, try it on top of one of the cues you've already finished off and after a few coats it would be good to see if you think there's a better shine. Sometimes I convince myself there's a difference but it may just be in my head!

Another tip - if using Tru-oil - do NOT peel off the seal on the bottle - just make a smallish hole in the seal. Once you've used what you need, put some tape on top of the seal to cover the hole. If you don't do this, when you come back to the bottle after a few weeks, you'll find it contains hardened bits of the edges that have dried up, and you'll struggle to apply it in thin layers and avoid bumps - good tip from another YouTube video somewhere!

Ok mate I'll give it a go.

I have a cue at the moment that I have given 6 coats of oil to see if I can get my grimy fingers to leave a mark which I could just about get one into it.

I then steel wool'ed the shine off of it.

I then waxed it to a nice shine.

As it's sat there with wax on it, I'll steel wool it again and apply some tru oil.

What I always ask is, what is the tru oil like for finger prints.

I have tried lots of oils that give a great shine after a few coats but even after ample drying time you lose the shine after playing a few frames with greasy hands and it won't always buff out so that os my test of a good mixture.

...............Off to the workshop for a little while to try it.

[blahblah01]

As an aside, I'm watching the MW clip on repairing scratches and he advocates wax on side of tip (but NOT oil)

I've been thinking he is a bit heavy on the paper and wool ie grades: but it is the difference between a Pro using expensive stuff, as buys in bulk as opposed to someone looking after their own cue?

[anish147]

So: lol

Pierce film\foil seal on Tru Oil

Pour\squirt enough into Glass Jar, with Thinner

Tape over the pierced film\foil.

Do not stir the mixture too vigourously ie avoid bubbles. (found on youtube somewhere)

Apply thin covering to Butt, and leave over night.

Buff (300o ish paper or the dreaded Wire Wool stuff) and repeat until shiny, shiny....

Exactly!

I haven't used thinners to be honest, though it may well help with thinner layers. Since the butt is already waxed, just by rubbing the tru-oil on for a few minutes will coat it thinly enough and it won't soak through so you won't get thick patches of oil left on it. You don't need much oil at all - a few drops - so I don't bother pouring any out into a glass - I just let a few drops drip from the hole directly onto a soft cloth and put the tape back on as contact with air will make it start drying out