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Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

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  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by vmax View Post
    I haven't had to clean the shaft of my cue since I started wearing a cue glove all the time. Obviously the shaft is never in contact with my skin so doesn't pick up any dirt, I don't over chalk, use grey Master chalk which isn't as visually apparent as green but is rubbed off by the glove anyway so that isn't a problem either.
    Once a year I clean the butt with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit, let it dry and apply some gunstock oil, leave overnight to dry, rub very gently with 0000 wire wool and apply a second coat, leave overnight to dry and it's nice and grippy.

    One has to think about what timber your butt is made from, how naturally oily it is since that dictates how much oil it will absorb when finishing. When making a cue with an oily hardwood I have to clean the surfaces to be glued with methylated spirit to evaporate the natural oil and then dampen with water to enable the water based wood glue to penetrate the timber for a good bond. The same is true when applying the oil finish, wipe over with meths and let dry before applying any finishing oil or the natural oil in the timber will prevent absorption of the finishing oil.

    As I have a lathe I have just ordered some friction polish for finishing butts. This has a high shellac content and can be applied to bare timber as it spins on the lathe and the friction/heat dries it immediately for a high gloss french polish finish in seconds, used by and recomended by wood turners so I thought I'd give it a go.

    I can't recomend using a glove highly enough, I know some of you think it looks 9 bally and therefore naff, not really snooker, but you have friction free smooth cueing all the time and your shaft doesn't get dirty.
    What's the shellac finish like if you clean the butt with a damp cloth?

    Leave a comment:


  • vmax
    replied
    I haven't had to clean the shaft of my cue since I started wearing a cue glove all the time. Obviously the shaft is never in contact with my skin so doesn't pick up any dirt, I don't over chalk, use grey Master chalk which isn't as visually apparent as green but is rubbed off by the glove anyway so that isn't a problem either.
    Once a year I clean the butt with a cloth dampened with methylated spirit, let it dry and apply some gunstock oil, leave overnight to dry, rub very gently with 0000 wire wool and apply a second coat, leave overnight to dry and it's nice and grippy.

    One has to think about what timber your butt is made from, how naturally oily it is since that dictates how much oil it will absorb when finishing. When making a cue with an oily hardwood I have to clean the surfaces to be glued with methylated spirit to evaporate the natural oil and then dampen with water to enable the water based wood glue to penetrate the timber for a good bond. The same is true when applying the oil finish, wipe over with meths and let dry before applying any finishing oil or the natural oil in the timber will prevent absorption of the finishing oil.

    As I have a lathe I have just ordered some friction polish for finishing butts. This has a high shellac content and can be applied to bare timber as it spins on the lathe and the friction/heat dries it immediately for a high gloss french polish finish in seconds, used by and recomended by wood turners so I thought I'd give it a go.

    I can't recomend using a glove highly enough, I know some of you think it looks 9 bally and therefore naff, not really snooker, but you have friction free smooth cueing all the time and your shaft doesn't get dirty.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ninja.cues
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Believably so, the hit is so different and lush lol.

    I had a hit of the Maple\Walnut veneer one Perdon Newbury(?) and it feels liked a piece of wood after mine.

    Ninja is onto a Pear one soon, I believe.
    Yes I will be making my first one for a friend, pear cue but not started it yet as I only had the wood cut a month ago...

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    Believably so, the hit is so different and lush lol.

    I had a hit of the Maple\Walnut veneer one Perdon Newbury(?) and it feels liked a piece of wood after mine.

    Ninja is onto a Pear one soon, I believe.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Yep, it's really old ie badge has almost totally faded, and I REALLY like the "hit".

    I just need to find a Tip that works with it (which I think I may have) and a finish.

    Once I have sorted those out, I may get it tidied up by a Pro....
    I've got a few old cues that play well but aren't standard.

    My old man's got one that must be over 70 years old with no name and it's a great cue, he's 80 this year and has had it since he was a nipper but no badge.

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    Yep, it's really old ie badge has almost totally faded, and I REALLY like the "hit".

    I just need to find a Tip that works with it (which I think I may have) and a finish.

    Once I have sorted those out, I may get it tidied up by a Pro....

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    I did assume I would get it thinned down a bit, but was prudent and thought give it a few months....

    I don't see the need\point tbh and it could get very whippy?
    Yep. Seen a lot of cues ruined when they are thinned out, especially old ones which is a shame.

    If it was a smidge then I'd do it but dropping from an 11mm to a 9.5 doesn't work for me as too risky.

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    I did assume I would get it thinned down a bit, but was prudent and thought give it a few months....

    I don't see the need\point tbh and it could get very whippy?

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Oh, the CB is more lively with this cue, and easier to control - I was forcing with old cue(s) this one that stuff "just happens"....
    Whatever suits you best.

    That's the beauty of the game, we are all after the same thing using different methods.

    Unfortunately, not all roads lead to Rome..................been reading too many mind books!

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    Oh, the CB is more lively with this cue, and easier to control - I was forcing with old cue(s) this one that stuff "just happens"....

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    It's 10.8mm, according to shop ie I haven't measured it as don't have the kit, but believable.
    You're not alone, I've fitted a few 11mm tips this year. People also like them as a crown tip on a 10mm ferrule.

    A guy at the club plays with one and can certainly move the ball around as much as any one else.

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    It's 10.8mm, according to shop ie I haven't measured it as don't have the kit, but believable.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    So would I be, if new cue wasn't over 10mm
    What tip size have you got on this cue mate?

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    So would I be, if new cue wasn't over 10mm

    Leave a comment:


  • anish147
    replied
    Lol, I'm pretty happy with the TS Long Ba you and Ninja suggested so whilst I have a couple more tips I'm trialling, I'd be happy sticking to TS Long Ba if the others don't suit me

    Leave a comment:

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