Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

[Shockerz]

Hello everyone,

I am reviving this post (which is mostly about regular / routine cue-cleaning) to ask about a slightly different matter: a once-and-for-all cleaning. Last time I changed my tip I had a little problem, a very tiny bit of glue remained on one of my fingers and that was transferred to the shaft, right in the middle of it.
It is really a minimal quantity, I can play without any problem. It only feels like a bit of stickiness and you need to look for the exact point, it does not affect the shot at all.
But once you know there is that bit of stickiness at some point of the cue, you go mental and you end up looking for it at the end of every session, and you regularly find it...

This is an ash cue. Do you think that 0000 steel wool would help taking that glue residual off the shaft without damaging the lacquer? And if not steel wool, what else? As I said, this would be just a one-time thing, my regular cleaning before sessions is exclusively the standard cloth or kitchen towel.

Thank you all in advance!

I've had a few cues in like this over the years with blotches of super glue on the shaft after retipping.

You can get super glue remover off Ebay.

Generally, if it's light smudges then you can apply the remover, wait for it to soak in and the remove with a lint free cloth, you will have to do this several times until it's all gone.

If the glue smudges are substantial or proud of the cue in height then I generally sand the glue under a large magnifying glass until close to the wood and then apply the remover.

if any if the super glue is close to the ferrule you have to be careful as you don't want it de activating any of the glue holding the ferrule on.

I normally do the occassional video on You tube (the snooker crazy grouo) so if I remember I might do one on this as it seems to crop up a bit.

[Shockerz]

I had someone do this with water on a freshly oiled cue.
Over night as I had to take the lacquer of the cue and oil it but wasn't left a lot of time to do it.
Then complained that all the oil had come off but doesn't happen to his Parris cue...

Hi mate

If it's just had a light coat then it may certainly remove some. Generally I apply a few coats and burnish them in so they are a little cooked you might say.

Obviously players have been cleaning their cues with a slightly damp cloth for years and I've been doing it for 40+ this year so as long as the oil on the cue has a reasonable quantity and bonding then it should be fine but one thin coat would be a test..

[vmax]

Hi Vmax,

The glue has set -- the tip was changed several days ago -- what I meant by "sticky" was: when I pass my hand / fingers on the shaft, it feels smooth everywhere except in that area touched by the glue residual, it is less smooth and you feel some resistance.

I believe the cue was oiled when I bought it (it is a 2-year-old maximus ultimate) and I was thinking about oiling it soon. Maybe I should remove the glue residual with 0000 steel wool and then oil the whole cue then?

That would be fine, but go over the whole cue with 0000 grade steel wool afterwards, then remove the dust with a cloth dampened in white spirit or IPA alcohol before oiling it. Give it five coats allowing a day between coats and then leave it for a week to allow the oil to cure before using it.
Don't use raw linseed as it doesn't cure, use boiled linseed or any one of a number of danish oils or tru oil, be prepared for a slight colour change in the shaft, subtle, but it will be there.

[Zelig]

Hi Vmax,

The glue has set -- the tip was changed several days ago -- what I meant by "sticky" was: when I pass my hand / fingers on the shaft, it feels smooth everywhere except in that area touched by the glue residual, it is less smooth and you feel some resistance.

I believe the cue was oiled when I bought it (it is a 2-year-old maximus ultimate) and I was thinking about oiling it soon. Maybe I should remove the glue residual with 0000 steel wool and then oil the whole cue then?

[vmax]

Are you saying the glue hasn't set and is still sticky ?

If so it can be removed with a cloth dampened in white spirit or IPA alcohol.

If the glue has set hard and your shaft is laquered then removing the glue with anything abrasive will leave white marks, if your shaft is oiled then there should be no problem using 0000 grade steel wool but apply a little oil over the area where the glue was removed.

[Zelig]

Hello everyone,

I am reviving this post (which is mostly about regular / routine cue-cleaning) to ask about a slightly different matter: a once-and-for-all cleaning. Last time I changed my tip I had a little problem, a very tiny bit of glue remained on one of my fingers and that was transferred to the shaft, right in the middle of it.
It is really a minimal quantity, I can play without any problem. It only feels like a bit of stickiness and you need to look for the exact point, it does not affect the shot at all.
But once you know there is that bit of stickiness at some point of the cue, you go mental and you end up looking for it at the end of every session, and you regularly find it...

This is an ash cue. Do you think that 0000 steel wool would help taking that glue residual off the shaft without damaging the lacquer? And if not steel wool, what else? As I said, this would be just a one-time thing, my regular cleaning before sessions is exclusively the standard cloth or kitchen towel.

Thank you all in advance!

[Ninja.cues]

I'd still use just a damp cloth as it doesn't take any wood off. Eventually you may need to grain fill after 2/3 years but that's fine.

When I used it on a Parris a few years ago that was softly, still ruined the cue over time, each to their own.

I had someone do this with water on a freshly oiled cue.
Over night as I had to take the lacquer of the cue and oil it but wasn't left a lot of time to do it.
Then complained that all the oil had come off but doesn't happen to his Parris cue...

[Shockerz]

The wool can be used very softly......

I'd still use just a damp cloth as it doesn't take any wood off. Eventually you may need to grain fill after 2/3 years but that's fine.

When I used it on a Parris a few years ago that was softly, still ruined the cue over time, each to their own.

[blahblah01]

The wool can be used very softly......

[Shockerz]

I use 0000 grade wire wool which I bought a bundle of for about £4.50, I use it as much as i need to tbh, never noticed it doing anything to my cue other than taking the dirt off, leaves a real smooth surface.
I'm currently searching for a new cue and have every intention of using it on that too, I have been told by others in the club that I shouldn't use it, never seen a reason why not.

If you use it regularly over a long period of time it will take wood off, that was the point of the thread. An occasional time then fair enough but every session over a few years and you will lose the taper.

You certainly wouldn't notice anything over a short period of time as it takes very little off but even a little is something and it is more than the grime.

[Dairoberts1927]

I use 0000 grade wire wool which I bought a bundle of for about £4.50, I use it as much as i need to tbh, never noticed it doing anything to my cue other than taking the dirt off, leaves a real smooth surface.
I'm currently searching for a new cue and have every intention of using it on that too, I have been told by others in the club that I shouldn't use it, never seen a reason why not.

[Markyboy147]

I'd be careful with the 0000 grade wool, I didn't concentrate on my MW cue and completely scuffed the wood just below the ferrule, it was heartbreaking.

[Shockerz]

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.

Thanks.

I've just stuck some on and will give it a go with a damp cloth in a week. Just trying a few different finishes and how they are affecting by cleaning with a damp rag compared to what it says on the label!!

[Ninja.cues]

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.

You can bring the shine back with a cream cleaner or cutting compound like T-cut.

[vmax]

What's the shellac finish like if you clean the butt with a damp cloth?

I've used french polish in the past (shellac) and cleaning with a damp cloth doesn't affect the polish at all, but like all finishes it will fade with constant handling but lasts a lot longer and is glossier than just an oil finish.