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Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

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  • blahblah01
    replied
    re the Comment in that Vid, the Thinner is helps with a thin coat and quicker drying time.....

    Originally Posted by anish147 View Post
    Those are the videos - plenty more too, but they all say pretty much the same thing after a while...thin, multiple layers, dry overnight between each layer, I use steel wool very lightly indeed between first and second layer for added smoothness.
    Any reason why the wool over 3000 grade paper?

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  • blahblah01
    replied
    Originally Posted by anish147 View Post
    No problem. It's not slippery at all...if anything, it may be the opposite...not sticky but slightly tacky. I wouldn't do the shaft with it as I think it would potentially make cueing a little less smooth.
    That has tempted me: as I struggle with a slippery Butt...

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  • anish147
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Those are the videos - plenty more too, but they all say pretty much the same thing after a while...thin, multiple layers, dry overnight between each layer, I use steel wool very lightly indeed between first and second layer for added smoothness.

    Leave a comment:


  • anish147
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Apologies for carrying on the daft questions...

    Is it a slippery as it is shiny?
    No problem. It's not slippery at all...if anything, it may be the opposite...not sticky but slightly tacky. I wouldn't do the shaft with it as I think it would potentially make cueing a little less smooth.


    There are videos on YouTube on Tru-oil being used to finish guitars - and if you imagine a glossy guitar, that's kind of how the cue butt will end up.

    I've only done it to a couple of my cues so far, as the steel wool/waxing can be done in a day, but I leave the Tru-oil over night before each coat so it takes time. Definitely watch some Tru-oil finishing videos as the key is super thin layers but as many layers as your patience can tolerate. With each additional layer, the gloss improves.

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  • blahblah01
    replied
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDiN9TCZkHk

    Top Comment here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APO1wwm359Q may be of interest.

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  • blahblah01
    replied
    Apologies for carrying on the daft questions...

    Is it a slippery as it is shiny?

    Leave a comment:


  • anish147
    replied
    Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
    No worries mate.

    Just to confirm, you use the Fiddes wax first on the whole cue or just the shaft?

    I think what we are surprised is the use of oil on top of wax if this is the case as normally I would remove wax before applying oil, just me though.
    Yep, I fully appreciate oil on wax sounds odd. Tru-oil is not your usual oil. Watch a couple of YouTube videos - there's one in particular by a German guy I think who compares the finish of about 5 different oils on a block of wood.

    Tru-oil will dry and leave a thin film, and I assume it's this thin film that eventually produces the nice gloss. So I use Fiddes wax to protect the whole cue, then just a few layers of Tru-oil afterwards on the butt to maybe 2 inches above the splices for added shine. If it didn't leave the film, I probably wouldn't bother as I couldn't see how it would permeate the wax, which is your point

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  • anish147
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Is the oil supposed to permeate the wax, or sit on it?
    Sit on it.

    That's why I prefer a natural wax on the cue to nourish the wood and protect it. The Tru-oil could be used on it's own as it should also nourish the wood, but I prefer using the wax.

    It works for me...but obviously there are many ways to get a great shine

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  • anish147
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    Do you mean this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-C...9155904&sr=8-1 ?

    If so, they do a wax https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-C...ct_top?ie=UTF8

    I'm struggling with the wax and oil together....
    I put this Tru-oil gun stock oil on top of the Fiddes wax - but only after the wax has dried in and been buffed. It's true that only a tiny bit of oil will remain as the cue has been waxed, but repeated coats in very thin layers gradually builds up the gloss. It isn't glossy after just a single layer

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  • blahblah01
    replied
    Is the oil supposed to permeate the wax, or sit on it?

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by anish147 View Post
    I'm so sorry if I'm confusing everyone!

    I meant I use the Fiddes Wax first, then on just the butt I use a couple of coats of Tru-oil. As this leaves a hardened layer once multiple coats have been added, it ends up looking very glossy.

    When I mentioned French Polisher's wax, I was referring to a product like Fiddes wax. There are far more expensive waxes available, but I'm not sure it all makes that much difference. By using the steel wool to essentially clean the shaft and butt prior to waxing, you end up with a silky smooth cue.
    No worries mate.

    Just to confirm, you use the Fiddes wax first on the whole cue or just the shaft?

    I think what we are surprised is the use of oil on top of wax if this is the case as normally I would remove wax before applying oil, just me though.

    Leave a comment:


  • anish147
    replied
    I'm so sorry if I'm confusing everyone!

    I meant I use the Fiddes Wax first, then on just the butt I use a couple of coats of Tru-oil. As this leaves a hardened layer once multiple coats have been added, it ends up looking very glossy.

    When I mentioned French Polisher's wax, I was referring to a product like Fiddes wax. There are far more expensive waxes available, but I'm not sure it all makes that much difference. By using the steel wool to essentially clean the shaft and butt prior to waxing, you end up with a silky smooth cue.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    That's how I read it: ie oil on wax - and the oil on it's own may be good enough...

    Amazon Reviews go on about a satin, not gloss finish from just the Oil, if that helps.
    I'm messing around with a lot of oils and waxes at the minute.

    Trying to learn as much as possible as will probably make a wooden cue case soon as not done one.

    Obviously I'll do an entirely different sort of finish but it's all related.

    Leave a comment:


  • blahblah01
    replied
    Originally Posted by anish147 View Post
    Tru-oil is great,

    but when I tried it on an already waxed butt, it looked like glass - that's how amazing the gloss was.

    I'm sure it's good enough on in it's own right,

    but I like the idea of using a French Polisher's wax - tried and tested - and then coating it with a less natural substance
    That's how I read it: ie oil on wax - and the oil on it's own may be good enough...

    Amazon Reviews go on about a satin, not gloss finish from just the Oil, if that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shockerz
    replied
    Originally Posted by blahblah01 View Post
    I thought no wax on top: wax on wood then oil on wax.
    I thought it started with an already waxed butt, then Tru Oil, then the french polisher's wax?

    Might be wring though, it won't be the first time!

    Leave a comment:

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