Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

[blahblah01]

Interesting to do it this way round.

So, wax first, then Tru oil, then French polisher's wax.

I'm always interested to see how products shine and then stand up to the oils and greases from hands.

I thought no wax on top: wax on wood then oil on wax.

[blahblah01]

Do you mean this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-C...9155904&sr=8-1 ?

If so, they do a wax https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-C...ct_top?ie=UTF8

I'm struggling with the wax and oil together....

[Shockerz]

Tru-oil is great, but when I tried it on an already waxed butt, it looked like glass - that's how amazing the gloss was. I'm sure it's good enough on in it's own right, but I like the idea of using a French Polisher's wax - tried and tested - and then coating it with a less natural substance

Interesting to do it this way round.

So, wax first, then Tru oil, then French polisher's wax.

I'm always interested to see how products shine and then stand up to the oils and greases from hands.

[anish147]

...just to note...I'm no expert or professional...just an enthusiast and now a cue collector!

PS - to keep the gloss and shine - I just buff with a soft cloth after I play a session

[anish147]

I agree as regards the waxes as most are derived from a natural product and then a little extra added, whatever takes your fancy.

I bought some tru oil ages ago and just haven't gotten around to using it.

Are you saying you don't get a good shine with tru oil with several coats before you wax it?

Hopefully, Tru oil should give you a decent deep shine on it's own. Like all the oils, I like to see how it dries and does it get really tarnished when you put some sweaty hands on it.

If it does tarnish with the greases from your hand, what's the best way to get it out easily and restore the shine.

These are the questions I'm playing with when testing oils.

Tru-oil is great, but when I tried it on an already waxed butt, it looked like glass - that's how amazing the gloss was. I'm sure it's good enough on in it's own right, but I like the idea of using a French Polisher's wax - tried and tested - and then coating it with a less natural substance

[anish147]

Not sure which Meguirs wax - think Shockerz may have the same one in his video or something similar.

I tried Tru-oil on gently sanded wood but now think it's better to wax the cue as I would the shaft, and then add 2-3 very vey thin coats of the Tru-oil - this gives it a more glossy shine

[Shockerz]

I use this:

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-wax

I went on a search a year ago and decided that any expert with wood furniture would know how to look after quality wood and therefore I decided to try a furniture wax.

I like the Sanman's idea of Meguirs, but there's something about using a car product that makes me feel uncomfortable. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to look after wood and different finishes you get with different oils and waxes - you could probably use any of them I guess.

I'm also trying out Tru-oil on the butt of the cues I have - looks to give a nice shine and gloss, once waxed.

I agree as regards the waxes as most are derived from a natural product and then a little extra added, whatever takes your fancy.

I bought some tru oil ages ago and just haven't gotten around to using it.

Are you saying you don't get a good shine with tru oil with several coats before you wax it?

Hopefully, Tru oil should give you a decent deep shine on it's own. Like all the oils, I like to see how it dries and does it get really tarnished when you put some sweaty hands on it.

If it does tarnish with the greases from your hand, what's the best way to get it out easily and restore the shine.

These are the questions I'm playing with when testing oils.

[blahblah01]

I use this:

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-wax

I went on a search a year ago and decided that any expert with wood furniture would know how to look after quality wood and therefore I decided to try a furniture wax.

Hopefully Ninja will see this, as I'm sure that is his background....

I like the Sanman's idea of Meguirs, but there's something about using a car product that makes me feel uncomfortable. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to look after wood and different finishes you get with different oils and waxes - you could probably use any of them I guess.

You do mean Carnauba?

I'm also trying out Tru-oil on the butt of the cues I have - looks to give a nice shine and gloss, once waxed.

Oil and wax, or did you mean to type buffed instead of waxed?

[anish147]

What sort of wax are you using to shine your cue? Always interested to see what others use.

I use this:

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-wax

I went on a search a year ago and decided that any expert with wood furniture would know how to look after quality wood and therefore I decided to try a furniture wax.

I like the Sanman's idea of Meguirs, but there's something about using a car product that makes me feel uncomfortable. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to look after wood and different finishes you get with different oils and waxes - you could probably use any of them I guess.

I'm also trying out Tru-oil on the butt of the cues I have - looks to give a nice shine and gloss, once waxed.

[anish147]

Totally agree with the comments on steel wool (0000 grit). The only caution I would give is when I returned to snooker a few years ago I was given some advice regarding steel wool. I was told it doesn't take any wood off, only the dirt and grime. Over a five year period I only used a damp cloth and 0000 grit steel wool before every session of snooker and I was playing a fair bit.

It took around 4 to 5 years and the cue taper had reduced significantly enough that it now resides on a case and I have a new one.

Steel wool occasionally when all else fails but a damp cloth in normal cue cleaning and only the steel wool on periodic maintenance.

Great video from Mike with lots of good tips from a top cue maker.

Fully agree - I think the steel wool does take the finest of layers off especially if you're a bit tough with it, so I use it once every 6-12 months when I re-wax my cue. Otherwise just a cloth

[Shockerz]

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

Totally agree with the comments on steel wool (0000 grit). The only caution I would give is when I returned to snooker a few years ago I was given some advice regarding steel wool. I was told it doesn't take any wood off, only the dirt and grime. Over a five year period I only used a damp cloth and 0000 grit steel wool before every session of snooker and I was playing a fair bit.

It took around 4 to 5 years and the cue taper had reduced significantly enough that it now resides on a case and I have a new one.

Steel wool occasionally when all else fails but a damp cloth in normal cue cleaning and only the steel wool on periodic maintenance.

Great video from Mike with lots of good tips from a top cue maker.

[Shockerz]

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

What sort of wax are you using to shine your cue? Always interested to see what others use.

[anish147]

I assumed it would be too abrasive, but MW recommends it here: https://handmadecues.com/cue-oil/ I accept that he knows his onions, but.... I can just about get my head around using it to clean when soaked in White Spirit etc before applying oil\wax finish.

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

[blahblah01]

I assumed it would be too abrasive, but MW recommends it here: https://handmadecues.com/cue-oil/ I accept that he knows his onions, but.... I can just about get my head around using it to clean when soaked in White Spirit etc before applying oil\wax finish.

[Shockerz]

Seen a guy in our league the other night who's a 100 break player doing the old chalking the v of the bridge hand, rare to see people do that these days, even rarer to see a good player doing it. Whole point of chalk is to create friction on the tip..not the bridge.

Seen a few players over the years using the chalk on their bridge hand. Tried it once and it was ok but probably not the best solution if sweaty hand or the cue not gliding enough.

I've gone back to a damp cloth now and then a dry one immediately. It works virtually all the time until humidity kicks in.