When was this table made?

[mikee]

Thank you. How could this middle pocket issue be fixed?

It can’t be fixed it’s a trait of older tables that were designed at a time of a more gentle game .Geoff looks after my table and he explained it all to me some time ago Full Replacement of cushions and pocket plates on table ,or get a more modern table .My old B&W table used to spit balls back out of the middles if hit very hard dead in middle ,I sold it as the slates were gone and split and the table needed a lot of work .

[fkhan]

If you set the pocket plates back you will crack the capping's as you weaken the support behind the plate by reducing the wood capping material thickness
all borough's and watts tables have a upward pocket bolt that screws into the large lug , this lug is in the main body of the cushion and cannot be set back further as that bolt cannot be set back further than the main body of the cushion , if you put two pin plates on it which some do , they will in time crack the top wood capping as you have set them back too far .
when you slam a ball at that centre pocket it can take the pressure if it is under bolted , but two pin plates the pressure is all on the back supporting wood work .

as for muntin on a rigidus table , only cross ways on each joint between the legs , the adjustable floating ones on a rigidus are the outer joint muntin's that cross the table at those joints , none do what modern muntin's do .

Thank you. How could this middle pocket issue be fixed?

[Geoff Large]

If you set the pocket plates back you will crack the capping's as you weaken the support behind the plate by reducing the wood capping material thickness
all borough's and watts tables have a upward pocket bolt that screws into the large lug , this lug is in the main body of the cushion and cannot be set back further as that bolt cannot be set back further than the main body of the cushion , if you put two pin plates on it which some do , they will in time crack the top wood capping as you have set them back too far .
when you slam a ball at that centre pocket it can take the pressure if it is under bolted , but two pin plates the pressure is all on the back supporting wood work .

as for muntin on a rigidus table , only cross ways on each joint between the legs , the adjustable floating ones on a rigidus are the outer joint muntin's that cross the table at those joints , none do what modern muntin's do .

[fkhan]

I’m not sure what you mean by upgrading the cushions on the middle pockets on the table ,the only way to fix the middle pocket bounded out is replace the cushion wood freezes with new wider ones .I would keep it like it is ,until you play on it you can’t really tell how often or how bad the bounce out is ,it might be ok .The bounce out problem is only really relevant when you hammer one full pace clean to the back of the pocket plate .One way may be to fill the holes where the pocket plates go in to the wooden cushion and re drill them a tad further back and fit a flat back BCE plate that sits flush with the back of the cushion freeze ,BCE cushions are not as wide like a Star or a Rasson but the plate is right back to allow a clean drop in to the bag ,also the BCE plate on the inside is cut and angled down to force the ball down ,B&W plate is just flat .

I believe this would be done.

They can be fitted with modern middle plates set back to avoid bounce out.

[mikee]

I’m not sure what you mean by upgrading the cushions on the middle pockets on the table ,the only way to fix the middle pocket bounded out is replace the cushion wood freezes with new wider ones .I would keep it like it is ,until you play on it you can’t really tell how often or how bad the bounce out is ,it might be ok .The bounce out problem is only really relevant when you hammer one full pace clean to the back of the pocket plate .One way may be to fill the holes where the pocket plates go in to the wooden cushion and re drill them a tad further back and fit a flat back BCE plate that sits flush with the back of the cushion freeze ,BCE cushions are not as wide like a Star or a Rasson but the plate is right back to allow a clean drop in to the bag ,also the BCE plate on the inside is cut and angled down to force the ball down ,B&W plate is just flat .

[fkhan]

They were certainly supplying them in 1922, but your table could have been made any time between the wars.

Thank you.

[100-uper]

Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation. It has the list of what it came with and how much it costed too. The pockets were the nice bag styled one's too. The table is exactly a 100 years old then

They were certainly supplying them in 1922, but your table could have been made any time between the wars.

[fkhan]

It has the appearance of a Burroughes & Watts 'York' table, made between the wars.

This is one of their adverts from 1922. It was supplied with either a 'rigidus' or ordinary frame.

Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation. It has the list of what it came with and how much it costed too. The pockets were the nice bag styled one's too. The table is exactly a 100 years old then

[100-uper]

https://ibb.co/x5QrBZn

It has the appearance of a Burroughes & Watts 'York' table, made between the wars.

This is one of their adverts from 1922. It was supplied with either a 'rigidus' or ordinary frame.

[fkhan]

If that table is nearly 100 years old and the slates are still level, I wouldn't be worrying about it. Saying that adjustable muntin aren't hatd to retro fit.

I have the knowledge of a toddler when it comes to tables especially the antiques. Philip pointed out that it has muntins. I don't doubt the quality of the table.

[itsnoteasy]

If that table is nearly 100 years old and the slates are still level, I wouldn't be worrying about it. Saying that adjustable muntin aren't hatd to retro fit.

[philip in china]

They are where the legs are. See my PM.

[fkhan]

Look at the spacing of the legs down each side. They are nor equidistant. The middle ones are close together so they are under slate joints. Apparently they also made on with 12 legs so that all the joints were supported. Imagine levelling that, but once done it would be superb.

1930s is probably about right. I don't suppose any would be made in the war. We had other priorities!

Thanks. I assume it does not have the muntins then.

[philip in china]

Look at the spacing of the legs down each side. They are nor equidistant. The middle ones are close together so they are under slate joints. Apparently they also made on with 12 legs so that all the joints were supported. Imagine levelling that, but once done it would be superb.

1930s is probably about right. I don't suppose any would be made in the war. We had other priorities!

[fkhan]

https://johnbennettbilliards.co.uk/p...snooker-table/

I found a link which says that it's from the 30's. Is this the same model?