Originally Posted by fkhan
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When was this table made?
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Originally Posted by Geoff Large View PostIf you set the pocket plates back you will crack the capping's as you weaken the support behind the plate by reducing the wood capping material thickness
all borough's and watts tables have a upward pocket bolt that screws into the large lug , this lug is in the main body of the cushion and cannot be set back further as that bolt cannot be set back further than the main body of the cushion , if you put two pin plates on it which some do , they will in time crack the top wood capping as you have set them back too far .
when you slam a ball at that centre pocket it can take the pressure if it is under bolted , but two pin plates the pressure is all on the back supporting wood work .
as for muntin on a rigidus table , only cross ways on each joint between the legs , the adjustable floating ones on a rigidus are the outer joint muntin's that cross the table at those joints , none do what modern muntin's do .
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If you set the pocket plates back you will crack the capping's as you weaken the support behind the plate by reducing the wood capping material thickness
all borough's and watts tables have a upward pocket bolt that screws into the large lug , this lug is in the main body of the cushion and cannot be set back further as that bolt cannot be set back further than the main body of the cushion , if you put two pin plates on it which some do , they will in time crack the top wood capping as you have set them back too far .
when you slam a ball at that centre pocket it can take the pressure if it is under bolted , but two pin plates the pressure is all on the back supporting wood work .
as for muntin on a rigidus table , only cross ways on each joint between the legs , the adjustable floating ones on a rigidus are the outer joint muntin's that cross the table at those joints , none do what modern muntin's do .
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Originally Posted by mikee View PostI’m not sure what you mean by upgrading the cushions on the middle pockets on the table ,the only way to fix the middle pocket bounded out is replace the cushion wood freezes with new wider ones .I would keep it like it is ,until you play on it you can’t really tell how often or how bad the bounce out is ,it might be ok .The bounce out problem is only really relevant when you hammer one full pace clean to the back of the pocket plate .One way may be to fill the holes where the pocket plates go in to the wooden cushion and re drill them a tad further back and fit a flat back BCE plate that sits flush with the back of the cushion freeze ,BCE cushions are not as wide like a Star or a Rasson but the plate is right back to allow a clean drop in to the bag ,also the BCE plate on the inside is cut and angled down to force the ball down ,B&W plate is just flat .
They can be fitted with modern middle plates set back to avoid bounce out.
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I’m not sure what you mean by upgrading the cushions on the middle pockets on the table ,the only way to fix the middle pocket bounded out is replace the cushion wood freezes with new wider ones .I would keep it like it is ,until you play on it you can’t really tell how often or how bad the bounce out is ,it might be ok .The bounce out problem is only really relevant when you hammer one full pace clean to the back of the pocket plate .One way may be to fill the holes where the pocket plates go in to the wooden cushion and re drill them a tad further back and fit a flat back BCE plate that sits flush with the back of the cushion freeze ,BCE cushions are not as wide like a Star or a Rasson but the plate is right back to allow a clean drop in to the bag ,also the BCE plate on the inside is cut and angled down to force the ball down ,B&W plate is just flat .
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Originally Posted by fkhan View Post
Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation. It has the list of what it came with and how much it costed too. The pockets were the nice bag styled one's too. The table is exactly a 100 years old then
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Originally Posted by 100-uper View Post
It has the appearance of a Burroughes & Watts 'York' table, made between the wars.
This is one of their adverts from 1922. It was supplied with either a 'rigidus' or ordinary frame.
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Originally Posted by fkhan View Post
This is one of their adverts from 1922. It was supplied with either a 'rigidus' or ordinary frame.
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostIf that table is nearly 100 years old and the slates are still level, I wouldn't be worrying about it. Saying that adjustable muntin aren't hatd to retro fit.
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If that table is nearly 100 years old and the slates are still level, I wouldn't be worrying about it. Saying that adjustable muntin aren't hatd to retro fit.
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Originally Posted by philip in china View PostLook at the spacing of the legs down each side. They are nor equidistant. The middle ones are close together so they are under slate joints. Apparently they also made on with 12 legs so that all the joints were supported. Imagine levelling that, but once done it would be superb.
1930s is probably about right. I don't suppose any would be made in the war. We had other priorities!
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Look at the spacing of the legs down each side. They are nor equidistant. The middle ones are close together so they are under slate joints. Apparently they also made on with 12 legs so that all the joints were supported. Imagine levelling that, but once done it would be superb.
1930s is probably about right. I don't suppose any would be made in the war. We had other priorities!
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https://johnbennettbilliards.co.uk/p...snooker-table/
I found a link which says that it's from the 30's. Is this the same model?Last edited by fkhan; 5 August 2022, 09:32 AM.
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