Table pocket help

[abhi147]

I will try that tomorrow


Do you know what these are on www.peradon.com ?
Are they any help for getting the pockets proper?

4160 - Slate lining straights ----------------------------------4465 - Cardboard Toeblocks
4162 - Slate lining corners & middles-------------------- 4466 - Hardboard Toeblocks

[moglet]

Toe blocks are for putting underneath the legs for levelling.

The slate linings are fixed to the underside of the slate to tack the cloth onto.

No help there...

[barracuda911]

The slate lining straights and corners/middles are pieces of wood (pine) that are screwed to the underside/outer edges of your slates, to enable the cloth to be tacked to it.

[moglet]

This is an old Burroughs and Watts steel cushion set, set to the WPBSA tournament template:

Middle.jpg

[tcollick]

Abhi...The middle pocket looks fine to me on the photos, actually on the small side, but if you want to make even more tight you need to recushion the table so that the new cushions come around and over the pocket more. Personal preference but not worth it in my opinion because they really look fine. I only had mine redone because they were like buckets. I wouldn't be concerned about the pocket drop being slightly infront of where the cushion ends. It is the same as Moglet's and my Riley and normal on a lot of tables. On the Wiraka M1 it is slightly different. As for the leathers you can show a fitter Moglets pic and say "like this please" seeing as they are both B&W.

If your measurements are exact, your corner pockets are tiny...2.75 is around 70mm which is much smaller than tournament cut (which is around 80mm). Maybe because your corners are so tight the middle seems too big! Personally I like tighter pockets as it makes other tables play much easier

Hi Moglet...the B&W looks nice!...the table pics aren't mine, its a Wiraka M1 IBSF tournament cut at a club I've been to that happens to post all their tables specs online. They say their middle is 85mm on this table, and 88mm-90mm on the other. I just posted slightly off topic to Geoff's post to show that on some tables (like the M1) the pocket plate is similar to the drop like he said, but on many tables it isn't.

By the way, when I had my pockets redone on Riley Aristocrat (not steel block) I checked the other post "Official Pocket Size" where you uploaded the templates. I never got a chance to look at them but someone else re-uploaded theirs with yours, so I used that as a guide, although there were no measurements . If possible could you send your templates to tcollick@hotmail.com as I'd love to see them with your measurements for future reference! In the end I went for A=120mm B=82mm C=40mm for corners, and A=190mm B=95mm C=50mm for middles. I'm hoping that this is close to tournament spec, or just a little bit wider. I made the cushion curve quite narrow similar to your template. By coincidence the cushions arrive today so I can't wait. Had to send them to a fitter because he doesn't live in my area, not on the same island actually...was a bit of a nightmare! In UK terms was like sending from England to Ireland!

[Geoff Large]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the help
I have uploaded a few more pics of the table

http://abhi147.vox.com/library/photos/

I also think its the slate drop which is a bit outside then it should be

Please let me know if you need any more pics
And also if there is a solution to this?

Thanks

You should measure at the point of fall , you are a bit further back , where the inner most part of the fall is , the inner curve where the red centre line ends on youre photo ., thats the point where you measure the pocket opening .

[inevermissblue]

Table Advise.

Hi there.

This seems a very knowledgeable thread so i hope you can help me? we have two tables at our club. They, i am told are original aristocrats though the framework with those arch style beams are not present.

The problem is. We have been told that a few years ago the club owner apparently had "somebody" in to jiggle with the tables to make them more generous as they were apparently too tight! (idiots). So its been assumed that these so called people have taken the steel blocks off and replaced(ripped them off) with inferior cushions. I have had a few people complain saying that the ball is not coming off the cushions correctly and this is due to this. Also the pocket drops look to have been rounded off unlike the near sheer drops you usually see on riley aristocrats.

My question is this! can all of this be rectified/restored? and if so ,how?

I appologise for my vaigue attempt to describe this but it is doing my head in!

[Geoff Large]

You would have to post pictures of the openings from above to see what has been done , as long as the slate falls have not been rasped inwards then the tables could be restored to match type openings just by rerubbering , are you sure the steel block cushions have been taken and replaced with normal cushions , a photo will confirm this .

It is normal to have the pocket openings eased for club play if too many members are complaining of pocket openings that are too tight , this would be done by rasping and sanding the rubber back slightly until the required size is obtained , keeping more or less to the original angles of the pocket .
just by taking 1/16th off each side of the opening will open the pocket by 1/8th at point of fall .
some times this can be done without recovering the cushions , if the billiards fitter is upto it .
But the other way round making the pockets tighter , a full rerubber is normaly the case . cutting new angles to template size . then recovering the cushions .

[inevermissblue]

Here are a few pictures of one of the tables. As you can see the pocket fall on the corners have a slight curve whereas the centre pockets have a near sheer drop. Have they been tampered with? Also would a complete re-rubber bring these tables to tournament spec? as this is what we would like, if possible.
The other picture shows the entire cushion so can you tell if these are steel block from the picture? If they are'nt then they were defintaley taken a few years ago! damn!
Geoff please tell me as much as you can about these tables!

[Geoff Large]

Cushions are standard Cushions , NOT STEEL BLOCK .

I cannot tel if the falls have been rasped/sanded in on this picture , but with cushions removed , you should be able to take two pieces of wood and fasten to side of slate so that they meet at the corner , then take a compass put the point of the compass where the wood meets at the corner , the radius of the fall from the corner should be 3.1/2 inch with a slight curve on the lip to avoid the cloth splitting at the drop . 3.5/8th will be acceptable if allowing for a good curve at the point of drop .

the legs on that table do not look like aristocrat legs , a photo of the leg and the bolt holes where the panel is do not resemble an aristocrat , the picture is abit blured though . you state the arches are missing , the upper block on those legs do not allow for arches to be fitted .