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  • my new table

    Hi Guys
    So, i finally got my table and i've just started to install it. Right now i'm on my own fitting it, and i've never done it before. Any advice on installing a BCE Westbury would be appreciated.

    At the moment i'm interested in the brackets that attach to the inner frame to support the slates. Should the brackets be attached before the slates, or should that all be levelled before the slates go on?

    Cheers.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Congratulation mate .. it's very beautiful ~~ ^^

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    • #3
      My advice...get some proffessional help/advice pronto!
      Unclevit C Brand - CueGuru Tip.

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      • #4
        The brackets should be fitted before the slabs are in place. Level the table and then screw up the supports. If the previous fitter has done his job properly you should have no trouble with `dished`unsupported slates, but if there is a slight `dishing`just give an extra half turn upwards on the brackets. If the problem still persists try it again, but be careful that you dont go at it like a bull in a China shop.
        Use an engineers level when levelling, as this will show the tinyest alteration to the level (a builders lever is of no use). When everything is spot on, you can then plaster the slate joints and fit the cloth.
        Best of luck.
        When you but cheap... You buy twice !

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        • #5
          Could i use a normal spirit level for the frame and then use something better after the slates are on? At the moment one side of the frame (long side) is going one way and the other side is going the other way, as though it's slightly twisted. I haven't put anything under the feet yet, so it's basically sitting directly on the floor.

          Re: adjustable mounting brackets
          I used 2cm screws thinking that they would meet up in the middle, as there is one bracket on each side of the cross-beams. Do you think that will be good enough, or should i move the mountings slightly so i can use full length 4cm screws on the brackets?

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          • #6
            clearly use a pro save yourself a problem

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            • #7
              hi Bricktip , Iv'e certainley got nothing against anyone attempting to put a table together , bolting a wood frame together and bolting cushions on is within most peoples skills , but fitting the bed cloth and getting it level can be a bit hard for a novice , but I will point out that you must be carefull that you get the frame almost level before you put the slates on , if not almost level , the slate will bend and twist the frame making the later fine leveling almost impossible if left too long out of level , sometimes having to take the slates back off the frame and reshoot the frame square again . and Iv'e done this a few times when Iv'e been called out by a novice installer .

              use a 6 Builders foot level WITH a good Engineers level on top of it , I only use the 6ft level as a straight edge , do not take the vial on the 6ft builders level to be anywhere near level . there ok for laying bricks and checking for vertical correctness but not leveling Billiard tables . some fitters use an end cushion to level the width of a frame with an engineers level on top of it , you just cannot be sure the end cushion is not bowed slightly so use a good straight edge and a quality engineers level which can be sourced off ebay just search for one , many can be bought for around £20 to £40 , a 12 inch one would be agood choice , make sure it is not the GG tube version as they are too accurate , just get one with two black lines on it , not 4 or 5 segmented red lines like a GG tube one .
              RABONE AND CHESTERMAN are a good make .

              if the adjusting brackets do not have a lip that sits ontop of the inner frame cross bearers then use Bolts to bolt the centre ones together and descnt screws on the end one's that back up to the polished ends .
              if they have the lip then you will not have to worry about them sinking downwards when adjusted to take the weight of the centre of the slate . and those small screws will be ok .

              But I have to agree use a Time served qualified billiard fitter if you can afford to as the result will be much better , getting one in to put things correct if the job goes wrong could cost you more in the long run .

              Geoff
              [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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              • #8
                Thanks to those who offered help here. It was always my intention to get a fitter to do the things that require experience, but they weren't available so i started building the basics myself.

                Anyway, I got it all fitted yesterday by an experienced fitter friend of mine, and it's all done now. First impressions are that the cushions seem slow when hitting head on. They are supposed to be with new northern rubber. Any thoughts why this should be?

                Image1.jpg

                sorry about the picture quality. It's taken with my iPhone zero. Will take nicer pics with the wife's better phone later.
                Last edited by bricktip; 26th September 2011, 11:09 AM. Reason: photo added

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                • #9
                  A bad table well installed will always play better than a top class table badly installed.
                  王可

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                  • #10
                    I have a used Riley (says made in England but others here identify it as Shender) and if I roll a ball forcefully from the D end (head here in the US but not Britain) toward the Black spot end (foot here in the US) it will travel 4 lengths ie down, up down and up.

                    I had a 10 ft Brunswick previously and only got 3 1/2 lengths of the table in this manner.

                    I believe if the rail cloth is newly installed it will retard the rebound but it loosens a bit after playing (experienced fitters may say this is bolloks as I am only repeating what I have read elsewhere)

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                    • #11
                      It is true new cloth will hold the rubber back until the cloth on the cushion gives a little , the Billiards fitter has to get the cloth on tight to avoid wrinkles and loose cloth , but it only takes a few days of playing to fully settle in and give a little .

                      Youre table is a chinese Riley shender table from the leg design ( previous thread info ), the wood on these shender made tables is a little less heavy than a more denser Brazilllian Mahogany , I suspect it is made from a wood not too far off Phillipino Mahogany , Weight in a cushions wood is very important for stiffness , and a ball will rebound off a heavy type mahogany more so than a phiilipino type mahogany , steel blocks and cuban mahogany being the ultimate heavy cushion for extreme bounce over 5 runs sometimes when the rubber is worn in , which can take around 6 months to fully bed in .

                      bottom line is youre table may improve in run lenth with time , and wear down of nap and if new cushion rubber bedding in time , or it just may stay the same .

                      I take it the Brunswick had differant rubber than the Riley shender , the brunswicks rubber being triangle shape rather than the L shape rubber of an english billiards table . My experience tells me that the triangle american rubber is no match for Good northern L shape rubber ( made in Retford nottinghamshire )when it comes to rebound , also the Brunswick may be the bolt upwards attachment rather than the Bolt into from the side attachment of the Riley , again I think a better rebound is given from the bolt into the slate from sidways rather than from under like the american pool table .
                      side ways movement of the cushion is more restricted as it it is anchored from the side and kinetic energy is not lost too much , the Brunswick can loose a lot of the kinetic energy of the ball as it is anchored from under the slate

                      Geoff
                      [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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                      • #12
                        I'm getting 4 runs on mine also, with new rubbers and cloth. The cushions have R&W stamped on them underneath the sliding bolt covers, and i'm guessing this is not what a BCE Westbury should have if original. Can anyone enlighten me on R&W?

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                        • #13
                          send me closeup of the cushion edge and I can tell if they are BCE.

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                          • #14
                            I've been away without internet for a week, but will post a picture of the cushions when i get the chance. Is R&W a brand?

                            Since my last post, I've ironed the table, and now i'm getting a little over 4.5 runs when throwing the cue ball down the length of the table.

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                            • #15
                              I've also noticed that the table creaks sometimes if i bump the side. I'm thinking perhaps the packing under the legs is not sufficient.

                              Perhaps you know something about this Geoff and Chris? I think the table is pretty solid, and i would think the weight of the slates would compress it down quite a bit. I'm not too happy about the table creaking though.

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