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Rail/Cushion/Pocket Height Problems

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Geoff Large View Post
    The old way of undercut was to file away the rubber under the nose of the angle until it was almost a sharp angle

    the modern and now the correct way , and you can see this on match tables on TV is to leave a square face almost like the face of the cushion going right around the angle and into the back of the radius , they have been doing this for over 10 years now look back on youtube at some old footage of TV tables and you may find the period they changed it , I think it was the mid 1990s

    look at my two examples in the link below of a proper finished smooth undercut and a rough speed fitters attempt

    I think it is not that the nose is now square going into the angle and all the way to the rear , but the rough undercut that may be your problem ?

    having studied your shot of the ball on the video link , the ball is already bouncing before it is anywhere near the pocket so is off the bed as it hits the pocket therefore it will bounce up more into the air as it rebounds as the centre of the ball is way above the nose of the lower angle of the flat edge , making the ball lift rather than be seated to the bed on the rebound .
    place the ball against the cushion , the ball should be slightly under the nose , so imagine a centre line on the ball , it should be under the lower edge of the nose of the rubber .

    if a rubber is too high the ball tends to die a bit , if it is level or below level the ball tends to jump , there is a fine line where you get maximum bounce from the cushions before it begins to jump , I always buy wood blocks from peradon they are made to the exact height for rubber
    so no problems when fitting and shaping for rubber .

    some fitters insist on making their own blocks unless they make them correct there will be problems , if oversized blocks are fitted then it is a full strip down and fit new blocks or plane old blocks down to correct height and refasten back on , this may also result in another Re-rubber , I have come across this twice recently and I have told the fitter concerned that he would be better off using Peradon standard blocks when re-blocking and re-rubbering . rather than make his own , but he is set in his ways .

    http://gclbilliards.com/a-couple-of-...-rubber-angle/

    and also http://gclbilliards.com/plenty-of-re...april-and-may/
    Thanks Geoff. I had a look at the table again last night. The balls sit just touching the lower edge of the nose so that's good. The pocket rubbers have been cut back the old way, not the new way. Would this account for balls pinging out? Sounds like the fitter who did our table is also set in his ways.

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    • #17
      There are plenty of expert advices for you here but let me suggest you something too. The problem might be with your pocket plate. Balls lifting from bed may be due to their weight differences too.
      Originally posted by Master Blaster View Post
      Thanks Geoff. I had a look at the table again last night. The balls sit just touching the lower edge of the nose so that's good. The pocket rubbers have been cut back the old way, not the new way. Would this account for balls pinging out? Sounds like the fitter who did our table is also set in his ways.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by hsn View Post
        There are plenty of expert advices for you here but let me suggest you something too. The problem might be with your pocket plate. Balls lifting from bed may be due to their weight differences too.
        Hi and thanks for the tip. I did look at the pocket plates and they're nicely shaped to take the ball down, inward and downward shaped. The leathers are in good condition as well. The balls are TCs and they weigh 140g each.

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        • #19
          I've had a few sessions on this match table and I've not entirely changed my mind about it but am more forgiving. Here's a video of me playing a few shots, a stun round the table off 5 cushions, a stun towards the yellow, stun towards the blue and a big bang stun on to the baulk cushion. I used stun because I find it to be the biggest test of what's potable in a pocket:



          What I've found is that the pockets are undercut the old way, not with a square face all the way in. This leaves the knuckle a bit more pointed than a WS template cut rubber so potting is slightly different. The table requires fine sighting up and down and dead straight delivery with the cue as low as possible to avoid any striking across the ball.

          A few chaps, some county have said it's unplayable across the table around the black but I'm not sure as the shots I played for two hours were all underneath, on, or above the black, across the table as per video. I think the cloth a little slow and a 6811 T would be better for speed. I hit the shots with a 17oz cue, nothing heavy. I measured pocket gap at 88mm at the fall. Let me know your thoughts.
          Last edited by Master Blaster; 26th March 2015, 02:10 AM.

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