Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cue Filler

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cue Filler

    Does anybody know what to use to "fill' the grain on a cue. I emailed John Parris Cues after seeing them use this black substance when making cues on the Ronnie O'Sullivan show. Parris Cues replied back with "sorry trade secret". One of my mates, who makes cue, reckons its indian ink! I'm not so sure.

  • #2
    Originally posted by fa1con View Post
    Does anybody know what to use to "fill' the grain on a cue. I emailed John Parris Cues after seeing them use this black substance when making cues on the Ronnie O'Sullivan show. Parris Cues replied back with "sorry trade secret". One of my mates, who makes cue, reckons its indian ink! I'm not so sure.
    I used the search bar on here, try this thread.

    http://www.thesnookerforum.co.uk/boa...hlight=Luthier

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks markz.

      Comment


      • #4
        if your on about highlighting the grain try black car spray just spray it on then rub with wire wool straight away paint will sink in to the more porous grain but will sand off the wood inbetween leaving highlighted grain rub it down straight away no need to let it dry plus i don't know if you leave it too long will it sink in there too

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mikeharris1701 View Post
          if your on about highlighting the grain try black car spray just spray it on then rub with wire wool straight away paint will sink in to the more porous grain but will sand off the wood inbetween leaving highlighted grain rub it down straight away no need to let it dry plus i don't know if you leave it too long will it sink in there too
          Never heard that one before, I'd stick to grain filler as that's what it's made for.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by mikeharris1701 View Post
            if your on about highlighting the grain try black car spray just spray it on then rub with wire wool straight away paint will sink in to the more porous grain but will sand off the wood inbetween leaving highlighted grain rub it down straight away no need to let it dry plus i don't know if you leave it too long will it sink in there too
            Are you being serious????*

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by markz View Post
              Never heard that one before, I'd stick to grain filler as that's what it's made for.
              If the paint is acrylic, he may have a point. I've used artists acrylic to finish a cue. It doesn't have to be an oil based filler. Also, grain filler is made for furniture, not snooker cues that will be used in a sport but it works so I can see car paint working. However, I consider cues to be precious, so I wouldn't use either as they involve sanguine the shaft which is somewhere won't go. I filled a syringe will artists acrylic, then pumped each grain, gently flattening and removing any tiny excess with the blunt side of a scalpal. This takes a long time but if you value your shaft, time is worth it. The fill has held, it's shiny and smooth and it hasn't fallen out. AD is precious!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                If the paint is acrylic, he may have a point. I've used artists acrylic to finish a cue. It doesn't have to be an oil based filler. Also, grain filler is made for furniture, not snooker cues that will be used in a sport but it works so I can see car paint working. However, I consider cues to be precious, so I wouldn't use either as they involve sanguine the shaft which is somewhere won't go. I filled a syringe will artists acrylic, then pumped each grain, gently flattening and removing any tiny excess with the blunt side of a scalpal. This takes a long time but if you value your shaft, time is worth it. The fill has held, it's shiny and smooth and it hasn't fallen out. AD is precious!
                Depends which grain filler you buy. In the link I supplied to the original poster it was for a filler used by luthiers making guitars. I've used this when I tried making a few cues and it worked well.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by markz View Post
                  Depends which grain filler you buy. In the link I supplied to the original poster it was for a filler used by luthiers making guitars. I've used this when I tried making a few cues and it worked well.
                  Well, Robin recommended Liberon. Lovely bloke. Personally, I think most are a gloopy mess, hence why cue makers put it on, then sand back. But my shaft is too good for sanding and that's why I wanted something richer, heavier and finer that would suit a syringe tube. Ok, it took 8hrs to do this and it was painstaking to say the least but the result is very good.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Artists' Acrylic fill on angel ash. Zero sanding, the wood as it was made. Like a baby's bottom.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                      Artists' Acrylic fill on angel ash. Zero sanding, the wood as it was made. Like a baby's bottom.

                      Is this your Powerglide Purist ?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mikeharris1701 View Post
                        if your on about highlighting the grain try black car spray just spray it on then rub with wire wool straight away paint will sink in to the more porous grain but will sand off the wood inbetween leaving highlighted grain rub it down straight away no need to let it dry plus i don't know if you leave it too long will it sink in there too
                        works a treat. I use it. Maybe when I have time make a vid. Too busy this week though.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                          Well, Robin recommended Liberon. Lovely bloke. Personally, I think most are a gloopy mess, hence why cue makers put it on, then sand back. But my shaft is too good for sanding and that's why I wanted something richer, heavier and finer that would suit a syringe tube. Ok, it took 8hrs to do this and it was painstaking to say the least but the result is very good.
                          you'd probably try and grain fill a maple shaft, Master.
                          #jeSuisMasterBlasterBarryWhite2v1977Luclex(andHisF ictiousTwin)BigSplash!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            ......my shaft is too good for sanding and that's why I wanted something richer, heavier and finer that would suit a syringe tube. Ok, it took 8hrs to do this and it was painstaking to say the least but the result is very good..
                            But you couldn't be bothered to spend 5 mins to get them 3 dinks out of it. hahahahaha

                            Yeah ok that'd mean a bit of steam and we all know you'd run a mile from that.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jrc750 View Post
                              Is this your Powerglide Purist ?
                              Yes mate. c. 1985

                              @Bolton, you're back! Now go post on the snooker/pool skills thread please.

                              @groller, too small to be fussed about, never coming into contact with the bridge. I'll water the out later maybe. Only a fool would try steam and warp his cue! You're so obviously Mr Big Shout as well. lol
                              Last edited by Big Splash!; 19th August 2016, 08:23 AM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X