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  • #16
    Hi Geoff,
    The slate is in two pieces. I've finished the assembly now and there is a little sagging. The p38 has made a nice smooth join. I might try and fit a threaded bar and brackets. Does this fit onto the wooden frame that supports the slate?

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    • #17
      look at this write up below , look at the photo's and you will see one with a bar running the entire length of the able , this is the anti bow bar , it must have L brackets at each end that does not foul the raise and fall area just drill a hole for the bar to exit at each end bracket

      a simple cut off piece of l shape metal with screw holes to screw into under slate surround at each end , a block of wood in the middle to act as the lever upwards when tightening the bar ,
      the bracket should be so that it cannot be wrenched off under pressure so screw it down to the undeframe at each end securely as this is the anchor bracket.

      http://gclbilliards.com/7ft-billiard...sworth-estate/
      Last edited by Geoff Large; 12 April 2016, 06:01 PM.
      [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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      • #18
        thanks Geoff. great write up. i've found your website to be very useful when researching snooker table rebuilding. absolutely fascinating. i think that the bar would need to be about 9 ft long, though only threaded for a few inches each end. i will see if i can find a local fabrication shop to build this for me. On another note, my cushions seem a little dead...perhaps they are have old rubber or maybe they have been replaced with cheap rubber??. i noticed that the baize was stapled to the cushions with a staple gun so i'm guessing its not original. one day (when my wife's not looking at the bank account) i will investigate this. for the time being, its a joy to have a table at home, any ready for a game, anytime. only 1 post away from being able to upload photo's!!!

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        • #19
          image.jpegimage.jpeg

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          • #20
            image.jpg
            Another pic of the rile 9ft diner

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            • #21
              image.jpganother pic of the diner. Does this help to determine its age?

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              • #22
                I do have most of the wooden'discs' to hide the screws. Missing a few....does anyone know where to get replacements...or will i have to get some made?

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                • #23
                  Also, at each corner there are two brass brackets, stamped with a number (corresponding to the rise and fall bracket numbers). One bracket, nearest the pocket is a brass round pin, then a few inches along the cushion is a brass slot about 3/4" in size.
                  Although geoff has said snoker diners dont have pocket racks, i cant think what else they could be for?image.jpg

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by Rodent View Post
                    Also, at each corner there are two brass brackets, stamped with a number (corresponding to the rise and fall bracket numbers). One bracket, nearest the pocket is a brass round pin, then a few inches along the cushion is a brass slot about 3/4" in size.
                    Although geoff has said snoker diners dont have pocket racks, i cant think what else they could be for?[ATTACH]18362[/ATTACH]
                    These brackets are not supposed to be on this Genuine EJ Riley billiard diner , the only thing I can think they are for is if one of the owners has made some sort of locking device to lock the top table leafs on so nobody can play on it
                    they look awful and spoil the table , take them off and fill the screw holes with brown wax .
                    all diners have to have pocket bags because any ball rail will get in the way of peoples legs when sat dining in it's lowered dining position .

                    I cannot see the genuine solid hard wood wood section leafs that go on top , there will be 5 on a 8ft and 9ft table , what size is the actual slate bed in length , do not include cushions just the slate size .
                    [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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                    • #25
                      Geoff, I have just looked at your site- the link to the Chinese table that you have finished in "piano black". Would it be asking too much for you to let me know how you get that level of black gloss on wood? The fact is that I have a grand piano lid which I need to refinish.
                      王可

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                      • #26
                        hi Phil

                        I only sprayed the sub frame black it was not high gloss piano black as that has to be done by spray gun polishing at a professional polisher .
                        I think you will find it is two pack cellulose lacquer they use the same as used on car body work , as with any high gloss finish you have to prep very well and build up over wood or fibre board the under layers to get such a top coat high gloss finish .

                        look at this demo http://capitalpolishers.com/portfoli...finish-london/

                        I like the way they do a whole piano change of colour on site in a gazebo
                        Last edited by Geoff Large; 23 April 2016, 02:17 PM.
                        [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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                        • #27
                          IMG_1730.jpg
                          picture of 5 section dining top

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                          • #28
                            picture of 5 piece dining top - undersideIMG_1734.jpg

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                            • #29
                              picture of side bracketsIMG_1743.jpg
                              Geoff, the slate is almost exactly 9ft x 4ft 6". i've added some photo's of the hardwood 5 piece top. the side brackets have been cleaned up and they look quite good i thin. they also look to me to be original as the number stamping is very similar to other parts of the table. the 5 pieces of the dining top are all marked with matching serial numbers

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                              • #30
                                My guess (from looking at pictures online) is that this table dates from somewhere between 1920-1950. Does this seem about right to you Geoff
                                Thanks

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