Table maintenance

[Geoff Large]

I do not think it would be wise to cover Good Brick work up on the outside of a house Garage if it is in keeping with the property even if it is a detached Garage , my garage was perfectly ok and passed by the building inspector for building regs , with a coating of water proof paint on the inside then a grid of 3 inch studding with insulation wool inside the studding then heat reflecting plaster Board , No damp in that room in 23 years of use , I remember when I finnshed Decorating it just before christmas 1988 as the Lokerbie pan am 103 air crash happened that night I finnished laying the carpet tiles .
insulation was that good it was the warmest room in the house , no sweating to the walls , I had the walls checked some years later when part of the plaster board had to come off for wiring in a new fuse box for outbuildings . not a single trace of damp or mildew rot inside the new studding .

Geoff

[sklskl]

I used the inclinometer today on the table to sort out the level and surprisingly it was only 0.1 degrees out in 2 places.

When I sorted it out the table still didn't feel right and the ball still curled towards the cushion on certain cushions so I just levelled it with eye with the white ball trial and test method. I eventually got it right but I'm thinking whether my purchase was all in vain?

I also noticed that when I test the level with the white ball across diagonal pockets I play it as slow and consistent as possible that it just reaches the other pocket and when it does curl left or right I get frustrated because I'm just constantly playing around with the legs. What I did realise though is that the test shots I play are so slow that realistically I will never play those that much in a real game so am I worrying over nufin....

I dunno maybe I've just had enough. Would the engineers level have been more accurate?

Table is fine level is fine at the mo but lets' say in a few months time it does become a bit unlevel I may just pay a proffessional to come sort it out who has a better eye for these things and maybe do the pyramid thing for me as well.

[andy carson]

I used the inclinometer today on the table to sort out the level and surprisingly it was only 0.1 degrees out in 2 places.

When I sorted it out the table still didn't feel right and the ball still curled towards the cushion on certain cushions so I just levelled it with eye with the white ball trial and test method. I eventually got it right but I'm thinking whether my purchase was all in vain?

I also noticed that when I test the level with the white ball across diagonal pockets I play it as slow and consistent as possible that it just reaches the other pocket and when it does curl left or right I get frustrated because I'm just constantly playing around with the legs. What I did realise though is that the test shots I play are so slow that realistically I will never play those that much in a real game so am I worrying over nufin....

I dunno maybe I've just had enough. Would the engineers level have been more accurate?

Table is fine level is fine at the mo but lets' say in a few months time it does become a bit unlevel I may just pay a proffessional to come sort it out who has a better eye for these things and maybe do the pyramid thing for me as well.

could be a daft thing, which way are you brushing the table where its rolling off?

[sklskl]

could be a daft thing, which way are you brushing the table where its rolling off?

Towards the end where the balls are racked. In straight consinsent lines with the nap.

[bricktip]

Hi,
Does anyone know of a special tool for the frame bolts on the BCE Westbury? For those that don't know, It's a huge slot head (25mm) but way too big for a normal screwdriver.

[Geoff Large]

Hi,
Does anyone know of a special tool for the frame bolts on the BCE Westbury? For those that don't know, It's a huge slot head (25mm) but way too big for a normal screwdriver.

You will have to make a bit from an old arbour bit from ebay , you will also require a Carpenters bit brace

Take the old bit and grind it down then form a large slot bit to fit into the slot on the large frame bolt .

look at this on ebay the bit stored at the right side of the roll is the one to grind down

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brace-2-an...item519bece596

also
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-BR...item3cbec06ef5

a closer look at the bit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-la...item27c0bc6ad5

[bricktip]

Interesting. Was there ever a special tool for these bolts, or was it always a case of improvising?

[Ex Enbild Fitter]

I've got one that fits on the end of my socket brace, I also have a homemade one for my carpenters brace somewhere but always favoured the socket brace one!

[maryfield]

Chane the screws to a hex head frame bolt. The BCE fixing usually has a spring washer to prevent loosening. You will get the frame tighter with a proper frame bolt which you can tighten with a socket.

[bricktip]

Took me a while to realize you meant "change". I thought you mis-spelt "chain"!

The thing with changing them is that the original ones are quite a low profile. I imagine the hex bolts would protrude making it difficult to put the decorative panels on.

[bricktip]

[QUOTE=Geoff Large;607492]You will have to make a bit from an old arbour bit from ebay

I just went to the diy shop to see if there is anything that could work. They had something that looked something like the bit you mentioned, for making rebates in wood. I don't know if that would be hard enough though - and I think could twist out of shape. Are the arbour bits you're talking about very hard?

[Ex Enbild Fitter]

Try and get the biggest spade (flat) bit you can and if you have access to a bench grinder you can fashion a slotted bit that will do the job, grind the point and cutting edges off and try that.

[Geoff Large]

Interesting. Was there ever a special tool for these bolts, or was it always a case of improvising?

yes but the outlets that supplied them have all disapeared replaced by B&Q so no one sells them anymore , just make one like I explained , you may be lucky and find one allready made on ebay , I have seen them but very rare to find these days, our last batch of 6 was made by a blacksmith we got two each but one of mine snapped , but I have my back up brace with one of the home made ones as described .

[Geoff Large]

[QUOTE=bricktip;607550]

You will have to make a bit from an old arbour bit from ebay

I just went to the diy shop to see if there is anything that could work. They had something that looked something like the bit you mentioned, for making rebates in wood. I don't know if that would be hard enough though - and I think could twist out of shape. Are the arbour bits you're talking about very hard?

yes they are hard , you need the chuck grab shank on the ends of them , the modern spade bit drills are soft and no grip shank on the other end , you also need the carpenters brace , they are very cheap on ebay and i doub't that you would pay over £10 for the whole lot , sometimes only 99p , the wood on youre table has shrunk over time with C/H ? and the screws are now proud of the wood , they will require nipping up now and again .

[bricktip]

Quote: "the wood on youre table has shrunk over time with C/H ?"

I don't know what you mean Geoff?