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  • Stiff Cue and Soft Cue

    I have a MasterCue PB1. (mastercue tip which is much harder than elk master).
    Borrowed my friend's MasterCue Classic (which is very stiff like a metal rod, with elk master tip).

    Using both cues i can do short straight pot easily.
    But its when I try doing a long medium strength pot with the stiff cue, my ball always goes to the wrong side of the object ball where i aim.

    I tried a number of times making sure no side was put on the cue ball, doing the same long pot and immediately changed back my cue which was softer, I can pot the long straight pot easily.

    I noticed that the stiff cue, i got to hit it lightly then i can make it straight.

    Any idea where went wrong? and why does a stiffer cue tend to "deviate" so much?

  • #2
    Originally Posted by Gallardo26 View Post
    I have a MasterCue PB1. (mastercue tip which is much harder than elk master).
    Borrowed my friend's MasterCue Classic (which is very stiff like a metal rod, with elk master tip).

    Using both cues i can do short straight pot easily.
    But its when I try doing a long medium strength pot with the stiff cue, my ball always goes to the wrong side of the object ball where i aim.

    I tried a number of times making sure no side was put on the cue ball, doing the same long pot and immediately changed back my cue which was softer, I can pot the long straight pot easily.

    I noticed that the stiff cue, i got to hit it lightly then i can make it straight.

    Any idea where went wrong? and why does a stiffer cue tend to "deviate" so much?
    From my experience, ask your friend to stand behind you and check your stance and cueing action, playing both cues. Mostly it's the technique, back & forth of the cueing hand
    It's in the Shaft

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally Posted by Gallardo26 View Post
      I have a MasterCue PB1. (mastercue tip which is much harder than elk master).
      Borrowed my friend's MasterCue Classic (which is very stiff like a metal rod, with elk master tip).

      Using both cues i can do short straight pot easily.
      But its when I try doing a long medium strength pot with the stiff cue, my ball always goes to the wrong side of the object ball where i aim.

      I tried a number of times making sure no side was put on the cue ball, doing the same long pot and immediately changed back my cue which was softer, I can pot the long straight pot easily.

      I noticed that the stiff cue, i got to hit it lightly then i can make it straight.

      Any idea where went wrong? and why does a stiffer cue tend to "deviate" so much?
      I don't know whether this will help but for the last few times playing UK 8ball and snooker, the white ball really hasn't been going where I wanted ...

      I checked everything ... is my stance OK? ... my sighting? ... my line of aim? my grip?

      After a week of frustration, I think I've finally sussed what was wrong ... I simply wasn't getting through the white nicely (just pretend it isn't there) ...

      I don't know but that could be what you are seeing too ... with your friends cue, perhaps you are a bit tentative and don't push through the white whereas you do push through with your own cue?

      Since you checked you were hitting dead centre ball with both cues, it can't be because of squirt caused by unwanted side ... must be just a lack of confidence to get through the white?

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks for the replies.

        Maybe my basics technique is not good enough, thus a stiff cue reveal my mistakes. (stiffer cue maybe hardder to control? softer cue may "absorb" my mistakes when making medium to hard shot).

        I do check my stances and grip with the help of my friend, do follow through the cue ball properly...

        interesting facts is that, the cue first owner was my friend "A", he do has this problem too, and then he sold his cue to my current friend "B" who is now using it.

        All of us found that this "Stiff, metal like cue" if you hit it hard especially a long shot, you have to have very good basic and accuracy.

        But if we hit it lightly, these problems will not occur...

        Everyone has no problem with a softer cue like mine.

        Another friend who bought a new MasterCue PB4, the stiffness is somewhere between mine and the "Stiff metal like mastercue classic", it seems that it does not "deviate" as much...

        Comment


        • #5
          A few weeks ago those of us who attended the TSF big day out were given a talk by Chris Henry who designed the Acuerate series of cues. What he demonstrated was that the stiffer the cue the more deflection you will get when playing with side, so you must be more accurate in your centre ball cueing for the ball to go exactly where you want.
          The acuerate cues have a very (and i mean very) springy top section of the shaft. You can push them down on the floor upside down and the end of the cue bends (demonstrated by Chirs Henry himself not us lol).
          Now I would not buy an Acuerate myself as I still have a few issues with them considering the price, but you cannot argue with the results when demonstrated.
          sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks.

            Think it still boils down to my cueing and accuracy of where I hit the cue ball...

            Do the professional use very stiff cues?

            I hear on TV that even a dead center shot, the sound of the shot made seems like the cue is very stiff. (the Tip might have big difference too).

            I do only get the "stiff" sound when i played alot of screw, or Top spin shot.

            Comment


            • #7
              DandyA doesn't reckon you get unwanted side when playing a shot, but I reckon you do, thus the much stiffer cue throwing your shot of line with a bit of power, where as a softer cue will abosrb some of the unwanted side and squirt giving you some le-way for mistakes, remember it doesn't take alot of unwanted side to create very unwanted affect, specially for long shots where cue ball has further to travel.

              Like unclevit says, ask a friend to stand directly in front or behind to check if you're cueing/following through straight cause its very very hard to realise or know when you're doing it on your own.
              You will always think you're hitting the ball where you're aim or hitting straight through white when actualy you put a bit of left or right, even applies to screw and follow shots.
              I've known many occasion where myself and others think they're aiming at the right place when actually they're either not low or high enough to create that affect, then taking shot and thinking, why didn't it screw or follow?
              or not aiming center ball when we think we are. Ask your friend when you're feathering/cueing where the tip is pointing on the white, then get up and have a look yourself, bet you'd be suprised at the result some times

              So I believe you do put unwanted side (like myself at times, specialy with power shots), and like you say the much stiffer cue has brought it to light. Least now you can work on it, ask a friend cause a coach is very expensive Remember even a pro needs a coach, so a friend with some snooker knowledge would be much help.

              In this game you need to be precise.

              Hope this helps, sorry to be bragging on so long, but I just want to help

              K good luck and hope you achieve what you want to achieve in this lovely game

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally Posted by RGCirencester View Post
                A few weeks ago those of us who attended the TSF big day out were given a talk by Chris Henry who designed the Acuerate series of cues. What he demonstrated was that the stiffer the cue the more deflection you will get when playing with side, so you must be more accurate in your centre ball cueing for the ball to go exactly where you want.
                The acuerate cues have a very (and i mean very) springy top section of the shaft. You can push them down on the floor upside down and the end of the cue bends (demonstrated by Chirs Henry himself not us lol).
                Now I would not buy an Acuerate myself as I still have a few issues with them considering the price, but you cannot argue with the results when demonstrated.
                Sure they do what is promised, and imply that accuracy when using side is the "be all and end all" of a snooker cue, but in all the comments about acuerate cues tried at TSF big day out there is not one mention of how they perform when using stun or screw.
                Tear up that manure-fed astroturf!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you for the reply and encouragement nam1977.

                  Will try out and pratice more to improve my game.

                  Being quite unhappy about my snooker recently that I have played for years and could not get good average break constantly.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by eaoin11 View Post
                    Sure they do what is promised, and imply that accuracy when using side is the "be all and end all" of a snooker cue, but in all the comments about acuerate cues tried at TSF big day out there is not one mention of how they perform when using stun or screw.
                    There was actually talk of the Acuerate and top/bottom during the day I just havent previously mentioned it but now you bring it up....

                    The theory behind having a very whippy tip section is that in the split second the tip is in contact with the ball the cue will bend with the curvature of the ball and thus stay in contact that split second longer. This is apparently tested using ultra high speed cameras. I did try the acuerate myself and got on quite well with it. My only issues would be with the finish and quality of case and extensions really.

                    But I do personally see the whole concept as a bit of a gimmick, though having tried it I won't knock it so much if somebody does decide to purchase one.
                    sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think may be you just do not like the "stiffer" feel of the hit. The delivery does not feel "right" for you and you try to cue differently to compensate.
                      I also think may be the harder you hit your cue ball, the more squirt you have as you did not hit the center of the cue ball, so it is off by more than when you hit it softer.
                      It is never easy to make the long pots consistently even for pro players anyway.
                      Last edited by poolqjunkie; 22 July 2009, 06:53 AM.
                      www.AuroraCues.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by RGCirencester View Post
                        There was actually talk of the Acuerate and top/bottom during the day I just havent previously mentioned it but now you bring it up....

                        The theory behind having a very whippy tip section is that in the split second the tip is in contact with the ball the cue will bend with the curvature of the ball and thus stay in contact that split second longer. This is apparently tested using ultra high speed cameras. I did try the acuerate myself and got on quite well with it. My only issues would be with the finish and quality of case and extensions really.

                        But I do personally see the whole concept as a bit of a gimmick, though having tried it I won't knock it so much if somebody does decide to purchase one.
                        Fair enough, I'll have to try one myself to know for sure.
                        Tear up that manure-fed astroturf!

                        Comment

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