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  • #16
    Originally Posted by pottr View Post
    That's not the table, that's the nap of the cloth
    We do have a couple of slight bellies either side if the pink so the ball moves off at a slow place, this is due to the fact that instead of 2 main supports running the length of the table under the slate we have 1 so the slate has bellied in the gap; If you play a slow pink toward the black pocket it will go slight against the nap (uphill!). Good to remember this in tight frames and catches others out not from the club.

    Mostly talking about nap in this instance for the middle pocket, aiming dead weight at the furthest jaw obviously helps to make the pocket bigger, especially at really acute angles.

    What I'm about to say sounds like tripe but I hit a red dead weight up the table along the cush (toward yellow pocket) and as it died at the middle pocket area it turned just a twitch and fell into the middle (after going along the cushion). I have tried for as long as I can remember to do it again as would love to do it in a match (lots of nap on that table).
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    • #17
      Originally Posted by pottr View Post
      That's not the table, that's the nap of the cloth
      You'd think that until you see a long pot the yellow pocket roll more than a ball out. On some of this fitters tables the balls roll in to the middles from the baulk and top end; and the nap only runs one way, so it shouldn't affect the brown to the middle as the brown is rolling with the nap, not against it. This fitter reclothed and moved a table in a pub, installed there by Rileys. The table was perfect with no perceptible roll before he got his jacks out and rolled it six inches across the floor. It's not been level since, whether the cloth has been new or shagged. I know what you mean about nap, that can affect the path of the ball but not a whole balls width. The fitter doesn't know how to level the table with balls and the middle legs on both sides are the wrong heights on all of his jobs; a tad too high compared to the end legs, causing tenting. He does half the league's tables and all of these roll. He even messed up a table with a no.10 cloth on it, with almost no nap to speak of. The owner was furious!
      Last edited by Big Splash!; 10 August 2016, 09:32 PM.

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
        You'd think that until you see a long pot the yellow pocket roll more than a ball out. On some of this fitters tables the balls roll in to the middles from the baulk and top end; and the nap only runs one way, so it shouldn't affect the brown to the middle as the brown is rolling with the nap, not against it. This fitter reclothed and moved a table in a pub, installed there by Rileys. The table was perfect with no perceptible roll before he got his jacks out and rolled it six inches across the floor. It's not been level since, whether the cloth has been new or shagged. I know what you mean about nap, that can affect the path of the ball but not a whole balls width. The fitter doesn't know how to level the table with balls and the middle legs on both sides are the wrong heights on all of his jobs; a tad too high compared to the end legs, causing tenting. He does half the league's tables and all of these roll. He even messed up a table with a no.10 cloth on it, with almost no nap to speak of. The owner was furious!
        You've got me thinking about how far the ball rolls out as a maximum with the nap.

        I like to roll a lot of balls with the nap dead weight when things are going well (on my home table), If I remember I might try and measure it, interesting though.
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        • #19
          Finger marks can't half knock a ball off course when playing dead weight.
          This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
          https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
            Finger marks can't half knock a ball off course when playing dead weight.
            Funny you should say that. found it difficult to remove some finger marks as it's probably grease on their fingers and have been thinking of trying that 'Ambersil Pool and Snooker Cloth Cleaner,' does it remove grease does anyone know?

            A little off topic but affects roll off?
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            • #21
              Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
              Funny you should say that. found it difficult to remove some finger marks as it's probably grease on their fingers and have been thinking of trying that 'Ambersil Pool and Snooker Cloth Cleaner,' does it remove grease does anyone know?

              A little off topic but affects roll off?
              Just thought I'd mention it as I have had some folk say tables have rolls in the club but they are just all marked up from a few days play( they don't get cleaned every day, not even every other day,don't ask!) but when clean brushed and ironed , if you are first on ,the same tables roll very true.
              This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
              https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
                Just thought I'd mention it as I have had some folk say tables have rolls in the club but they are just all marked up from a few days play( they don't get cleaned every day, not even every other day,don't ask!) but when clean brushed and ironed , if you are first on ,the same tables roll very true.
                It's true. I would guess most tables suffer from that lack of love and attention on a regular basis, it would certainly help consistency if they were brushed and ironed daily.
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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
                  You've got me thinking about how far the ball rolls out as a maximum with the nap.

                  I like to roll a lot of balls with the nap dead weight when things are going well (on my home table), If I remember I might try and measure it, interesting though.
                  I've played on Star tables and the roll is zero. Ok, those are no.10 cloths so there is less nap. On a flat table with a 6811T, the roll is minimal. But when it's a ball or more, you know something is wrong with the feet/slates/bearers. For example a table with a no.10 cloth I know of only rolls to the green pocket. That's down to a warped slate sag due to a lack of support underneath. I can see the gap!

                  @INE, do you block the table, is your block worn? I've looked after tables and I used to get the offcuts after each new cloth and make a new block. The helped to pull the cloth firmer and flatter. I wee mist of water from a sprayer will help on troubled areas too.

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                    I've played on Star tables and the roll is zero. Ok, those are no.10 cloths so there is less nap. On a flat table with a 6811T, the roll is minimal. But when it's a ball or more, you know something is wrong with the feet/slates/bearers. For example a table with a no.10 cloth I know of only rolls to the green pocket. That's down to a warped slate sag due to a lack of support underneath. I can see the gap!

                    @INE, do you block the table, is your block worn? I've looked after tables and I used to get the offcuts after each new cloth and make a new block. The helped to pull the cloth firmer and flatter. I wee mist of water from a sprayer will help on troubled areas too.
                    Yeah I block it myself and encourage the others, especially between frames in matches. I purchased one around 18" which was great and just had it reclothed when the table was done a few weeks ago.
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                    • #25
                      I looked at the Peradon type at £30 but realised I could make one better that is three sided (three times more life in it) with a block of leftover wood, some spare cloth and some tacks. It's heavier than a Peradon due to the timber so you get more compression and a nice flat finish after just one pass. Maybe I should make them and punt them? lol

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                      • #26
                        Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                        I looked at the Peradon type at £30 but realised I could make one better that is three sided (three times more life in it) with a block of leftover wood, some spare cloth and some tacks. It's heavier than a Peradon due to the timber so you get more compression and a nice flat finish after just one pass. Maybe I should make them and punt them? lol
                        It was the Peradon one I purchased for the club and it does a pretty good job as it's quite a size (must be 18 inches?). It's what I say is a medium weight but's not bad.

                        Could make one but you don;t get a lot for £30 nowadays. You make em and I'll sell em!
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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
                          It was the Peradon one I purchased for the club and it does a pretty good job as it's quite a size (must be 18 inches?). It's what I say is a medium weight but's not bad.

                          Could make one but you don;t get a lot for £30 nowadays. You make em and I'll sell em!
                          Crank the tips out and we'll have to start a company! :biggrin-new:

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                          • #28
                            Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                            Crank the tips out and we'll have to start a company! :biggrin-new:
                            Have stuck 11 layers of leather together over the last couple of days and am awaiting a circular punch tool so I can then see what to do next.

                            Problems already with it still being too flexible so will cut out and try to harden the edges etc.

                            I should have done a video of me sticking the layers together as you would have wet yourself. The glue on the layer kept stick to my hands and when I went to get the layer off something else!

                            Before you ask for pictures, no chance, feel like a big enough pillock as it is. I'll have a go for a bit and if I can churn anything out that resembles a tip shape I'll post them then.

                            In no way could I see this being a tip at present so I'll keep you up to date when the rest of the gear comes!

                            If you don't see me posting much it'll be because I'm stuck to something so send help.......
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                            • #29
                              Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
                              Have stuck 11 layers of leather together over the last couple of days and am awaiting a circular punch tool so I can then see what to do next.

                              Problems already with it still being too flexible so will cut out and try to harden the edges etc.

                              I should have done a video of me sticking the layers together as you would have wet yourself. The glue on the layer kept stick to my hands and when I went to get the layer off something else!

                              Before you ask for pictures, no chance, feel like a big enough pillock as it is. I'll have a go for a bit and if I can churn anything out that resembles a tip shape I'll post them then.

                              In no way could I see this being a tip at present so I'll keep you up to date when the rest of the gear comes!

                              If you don't see me posting much it'll be because I'm stuck to something so send help.......
                              Haha, I've been there plenty with contact adhesive or flippin waxoyl or summat else. Meths should clean it off without ruining your skin, if you have any left.

                              Yeah, I see a lot of makers using 6 layers. I know Kamui use more but they make this 1cm tip which is complete overkill as no-one will play with a tip that fat. Kamui's I've sold always get filed down and lose a couple of layers; I wonder what the point of them being that fat to begin with is. As long as the tip is as thick as a Cue Soul, you'll be ok. Talisman is quite thin in comparison, but with minimal filing, it's ready to go quickly given it comes pre-formed. I don't think it has more than 6 layers either.
                              Last edited by Big Splash!; 11 August 2016, 01:22 PM.

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                              • #30
                                Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                                Haha, I've been there plenty with contact adhesive or flippin waxoyl or summat else. Meths should clean it off without ruining your skin, if you have any left.

                                Yeah, I see a lot of makers using 6 layers. I know Kamui use more but they make this 1cm tip which is complete overkill as no-one will play with a tip that fat. Kamui's I've sold always get filed down and lose a couple of layers; I wonder what the point of them being that fat to begin with is. As long as the tip is as thick as a Cue Soul, you'll be ok. Talisman is quite thin in comparison, but with minimal filing, it's ready to go quickly given it comes pre-formed. I don't think it has more than 6 layers either.
                                Talisman has 11 layers. The tip is rock hard all the way through almost like it's soaked in glue. I used 0.5mm pigskin and gave it a really good coating and at the moment it expands like an accordion, or a bad Elk that's broken down.

                                It certainly gets your brain going though so I'm sure I'll have some fun!
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