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Got myself a used cue- need advice on a few things

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  • Got myself a used cue- need advice on a few things

    Hello everyone,

    I have recently purchased a very fine cue. It is a Master Connoisseur-S. Had to go for a used cue for two reasons- this one new is 350 pounds which was way beyond my budget and I got this one for around 180 pounds. Second reason is that I play with 59 inches and getting a 59 inches cue isn't easy here. You either have to have one locally made to custom or get one from abroad. This piece luckily made its way to me and surprisingly had the specs almost similar to what I play with so I was happy enough.

    It is a pretty beat up cue and has been badly kept. However, I was able to clean it and restore it as much as I could and it looks fine enough now. Only used to for two days with a new tip on and made a 56 yesterday in fact my highest break - previous was a 54.

    Now I have a couple of issues that need a discussion. When I sight it like a rifle I can see the cut tip turning just a tad bit so it isn't 100% straight but while playing I do not notice anything. The ferrule raise its head when I roll it on the table too. However, this doesn't hamper my playing and I can't detect any problem I have a 50 and took on long shots dead weight rolls etc everything works fine to my satisfaction. Should I bother about that?

    Secondly, the previous owner had the butt end lacquered like a think coat of a film type material to keep the decorative splices protected. I don't mind that but it get a bit sticky in the grip hand and I need to wipe it up every now and then and I do not mind that too. Should I have it taken off ? I don't want to because it might make the cue look bad and since its nothing much and I can live with it.

    Thirdly and most importantly, the owner said he did not use the lacquer on the shaft. However, I am not sure if there is lacquer on the shaft or not. So how to know if there is lacquer? What would tell me that there is something on? When I feel the grain I can't detect too much perhaps because it has been sanded pretty fine by the makers. The shine on shaft is less than or a bit dull as compared to the butt. Does that mean there is no lacquer or does that mean there is thick lacquer on the butt? How to ascertain if there is lacquer on the shaft. If yes, I would like to sand it down and give it a linseed oil finish but I do not want to ruin the cue so I am hesitating going down that road.

    Below are some pictures of the cue:


    IMG_5161.JPG IMG_5162.JPG IMG_5160.JPG IMG_5173.JPG


    Thanks,
    Sidd.
    "I am still endeavouring to meet someone funnier than my life" - Q. M. Sidd

  • #2
    Remove the badge and remove the laquer on the butt with 120 grade sandpaper. Then sand the whole cue with 240 grade sandpaper until it's smooth all over. Then sand the whole cue with 300 grade sandpaper until it's super smooth. The apply some black wax or shoe polish with a soft cloth to the shaft only, leave for ten minutes and then remove with a clean soft cloth and go over the cue with a pad of 0000 grade steel wool until its super smooth, paying special attention to the ferrule and joint to get them nice and shiny.
    Get some Danish Oil and oil the whole cue liberally, nice and wet, leave for five minutes and remove any excess with a soft cloth, leave for 24 hours to dry. Then apply a little danish oil over the whole cue, leave for five minutes and dry with a soft cloth and leave overnight; do this everyday for a week. Leave cue to dry completely for a couple of days, refit the badge and it should be as good as new.

    The slight bend may dissapear after applying the danish oil as it could be that the wood has dried out and warped a bit and the oil might bring it back, then again it may not but if you hold the cue where it looks straight then it doesn't matter, many cues have slight bends in them, Hendry's cue was bent, Doherty's cue is bent and they were world champions.
    Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
    but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by vmax View Post
      Remove the badge and remove the laquer on the butt with 120 grade sandpaper. Then sand the whole cue with 240 grade sandpaper until it's smooth all over. Then sand the whole cue with 300 grade sandpaper until it's super smooth. The apply some black wax or shoe polish with a soft cloth to the shaft only, leave for ten minutes and then remove with a clean soft cloth and go over the cue with a pad of 0000 grade steel wool until its super smooth, paying special attention to the ferrule and joint to get them nice and shiny.
      Get some Danish Oil and oil the whole cue liberally, nice and wet, leave for five minutes and remove any excess with a soft cloth, leave for 24 hours to dry. Then apply a little danish oil over the whole cue, leave for five minutes and dry with a soft cloth and leave overnight; do this everyday for a week. Leave cue to dry completely for a couple of days, refit the badge and it should be as good as new.

      The slight bend may dissapear after applying the danish oil as it could be that the wood has dried out and warped a bit and the oil might bring it back, then again it may not but if you hold the cue where it looks straight then it doesn't matter, many cues have slight bends in them, Hendry's cue was bent, Doherty's cue is bent and they were world champions.

      Thanks for the response Steve. I shall keep that in mind if I ever go down that route or maybe guide a local cue maker accordingly. But then again, it is only the lacquer on the butt which feels a bit not ok but even that can be ignored. I made a 56 on my day two with the cue and it plays just about fine as it is... So I shall leave it like that. But if the lacquer on the butt disturbs me in future I shall do as you said or have it done for me.

      s for the shaft, I am not sure if its lacquered varnished or oil finished. Need ot find that out and move accordingly. Any insight as to how I can identify the kind of finish on the shaft ?

      Regards,
      Sidd.
      "I am still endeavouring to meet someone funnier than my life" - Q. M. Sidd

      Comment


      • #4
        If the shaft is laquered it will feel sticky on your bridge hand, if the shaft has a shiny finish but is not sticky then it's a wax or oil finish, if the shaft looks a little dull then it could be bare wood which will need finishing to preserve it.
        Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
        but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by vmax View Post
          If the shaft is laquered it will feel sticky on your bridge hand, if the shaft has a shiny finish but is not sticky then it's a wax or oil finish, if the shaft looks a little dull then it could be bare wood which will need finishing to preserve it.
          The shaft is shiny but is not sticky as such. I played 3-4 frames and just a wipe down with towel every now and then felt just about ok. Whereas, the butt (which is lacquered and I know that) get more sticky in the grip hand. The shaft is shiny but has a lesser shine as compared to the butt. So I think the shaft has been waxed/oiled...

          The butt is lacquered and till I decide to remove it, I shall stick to it- it sticks to me anyway

          What general treatment would you recommend for the shaft. After cleaning etc should I give it an oil coat. If yes, what oil- I was thinking processed linseed as its available easily?

          Thanks again mate,
          Sidd.
          "I am still endeavouring to meet someone funnier than my life" - Q. M. Sidd

          Comment

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