Cue maintenance

[Nick80davis]

Ive got a maximus ultimate 1 piece. Which i had made for me about 3 years ago. Its an amazing cue which i play really well with. But recently I was told in my local snooker hall i should be rubbing it down with lin seed oil. To keep it looking and playing well. Never knew this, cue still looks and plays well if this is true how often should i do this because i haven't got a clue about cue maintenance, some pointers would be appreciated

[Nifty50]

If you put Linseed into the search field you should get a lot of useful information. Personally I do mine once a year but I’m sure the experts on here will post up some advice for you. Nice cue BTW. Look after it and it’ll last you a lifetime.

[mikee]

I give mine a rub down with some lemon oil a couple of times a year and just keep it clean ,had it twenty years now ,plays great .

[ADR147]

Ive got a maximus ultimate 1 piece. Which i had made for me about 3 years ago. Its an amazing cue which i play really well with. But recently I was told in my local snooker hall i should be rubbing it down with lin seed oil. To keep it looking and playing well. Never knew this, cue still looks and plays well if this is true how often should i do this because i haven't got a clue about cue maintenance, some pointers would be appreciated

Depending on how often you play the finish on a maximus cue will last a number of years with no oil - just wipe down with copy paper to keep the chalk off.. if the finish starts to wear a few drops of cue oil will be fine and done right will last you another 3 years. Linseed oil although traditional is actually one of the more difficult oils to use.

[ADR147]

I give mine a rub down with some lemon oil a couple of times a year and just keep it clean ,had it twenty years now ,plays great .

Lemon oil is brilliant but people need to check the ingredients because some of them have chemicals in that don't work well with the grain filler on cues. Parker and Bailey is the best I have seen.

[mikee]

I don’t put much on ,and not very often ,I use it on my guitars fret board too ,the cue is always in a controlled heated room and never left In a car or propped up .Ive always looked after it Well apart from once years ago when I lost a long match and it bounced off the table and on to the floor

[Starsky]

Depending on how often you play the finish on a maximus cue will last a number of years with no oil - just wipe down with copy paper to keep the chalk off.. if the finish starts to wear a few drops of cue oil will be fine and done right will last you another 3 years. Linseed oil although traditional is actually one of the more difficult oils to use.

Sorry to hijack this thread, in regards to keeping chalk off your cue what is the best way to get rid of the chalk marks you get around the bottom of your ferrule. Is it just a case of wiping with a damp cloth and drying straight after ?.

[ADR147]

Sorry to hijack this thread, in regards to keeping chalk off your cue what is the best way to get rid of the chalk marks you get around the bottom of your ferrule. Is it just a case of wiping with a damp cloth and drying straight after ?.

I don't let the chalk get anywhere near the cue shaft but as a general rule I would avoid water on a cue.

[64 Cueman]

Dont use linseed oil use tung oil its thinner and is easier too use

[Ed13]

For chalk on cue shafts and ferrules I use 99% alcohol and Mr Clean Magic Eraser if it does not come off easily just wiping it down. A quick way to burnish the shaft is use a piece of a brown paper bag. Also use microcrystalline wax on shafts when needed. Product is used by museums and art galleries for protection. Keeps moisture at bay. Also works great for metal wood working tools.

[Inoffthered]

Lemon oil is brilliant but people need to check the ingredients because some of them have chemicals in that don't work well with the grain filler on cues. Parker and Bailey is the best I have seen.

i do similar ( but with linseed oil ( not the boiled linseed oil as this one has chemicals and the like? Every so often wipe down with a damp cloth and buff dry. Works a treat

[vmax]

i do similar ( but with linseed oil ( not the boiled linseed oil as this one has chemicals and the like? Every so often wipe down with a damp cloth and buff dry. Works a treat

Don't be afraid of boiled linseed as any chemicals present are simply dryers that will not damage the wood but will make the oil cure properly giving the wood proper protection. Genuine boiled linseed has actually been heated to change it's molecular structure so that it does cure, raw linseed never cures even though it feels dry, good for cricket bats but not for cues.

[Crucible]

My cue suffered from sticky cue syndrome due to frequent oiling and oil left too long and harden. Damp cloth kind of help a bit but stickines soon return to some extent. Solution Mr Sheen furniture polish spray. Removes old grimes, waxes and polish and leaves its own waxy talc like residue that is very smooth. I'm not recommending it to everyone but it worked for me, the only thing I did'nt like was the perfume smell it left behind.