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Is This Ferrule Too Long? (Picture Attached)

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  • Is This Ferrule Too Long? (Picture Attached)

    I've attached a picture of my team mates tip and ferrule. He asked me to take the cue home and shape the tip for him properly as the tip is a bit flat and too high. Upon looking at the tip and ferrule, I couldn't help noticing that the ferrule seemed far too long (maybe just me but I don't think so). I was told by the local cue doctor fairly recently that the length of a ferrule is best being not any longer than the actual width of the tip that is on the cue. What do you guys think about it? Are there any advantages to having a longer or shorter ferrule? Also the tip seems quite spongy and too soft. I told my team mate that I can shape the tip better than it is at the moment, but ideally he needs to take his cue to our local cue doctor and ask to have a new shorter ferrule put on it and change the tip on it to a medium hardness.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by dmorley85; 3rd August 2017, 04:15 AM.

  • #2
    What is the cue doctors reasoning? It's longer than most brass ferrules I've seen, but I don't know why that would be an issue. To be honest the only thing I know about cues is that they should be straight and made out of some sort of wood.

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    • #3
      There's no need to change it all, but I would be cleaning it up with wire wool tho

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by dmorley85 View Post
        I've attached a picture of my team mates tip and ferrule. He asked me to take the cue home and shape the tip for him properly as the tip is a bit flat and too high. Upon looking at the tip and ferrule, I couldn't help noticing that the ferrule seemed far too long (maybe just me but I don't think so). I was told by the local cue doctor fairly recently that the length of a ferrule is best being not any longer than the actual width of the tip that is on the cue. What do you guys think about it? Are there any advantages to having a longer or shorter ferrule? Also the tip seems quite spongy and too soft. I told my team mate that I can shape the tip better than it is at the moment, but ideally he needs to take his cue to our local cue doctor and ask to have a new shorter ferrule put on it and change the tip on it to a medium hardness.
        Personally I've seen lots of ferrules over the years not dissimilar to this one, it's a struggle to say that it's not right so take it off. How much difference would it make if it were a 1/3 less in height compared to shortening the cue, I'd probably leave it if it were me.

        The tip just looks like an Elk that hasn't been taken down and played in. If so you could just take a bit off and let it play in?
        Snooker Crazy - Cues and Equipment Sales Website
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        • #5
          Originally posted by Shockerz View Post
          Personally I've seen lots of ferrules over the years not dissimilar to this one, it's a struggle to say that it's not right so take it off. How much difference would it make if it were a 1/3 less in height compared to shortening the cue, I'd probably leave it if it were me.

          The tip just looks like an Elk that hasn't been taken down and played in. If so you could just take a bit off and let it play in?
          Apologies for coming in on your thread dmorley85 but I would like to ask a non-ferrule question if I may.
          When I put a new tip on my cue, which I have done recently, I always leave it the thickness that it is and just put a slight dome on it. I have read before of people 'taking the tip down', by how much should I do it and what are the advantages please.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bluenose1940 View Post
            Originally posted by Shockerz View Post
            Personally I've seen lots of ferrules over the years not dissimilar to this one, it's a struggle to say that it's not right so take it off. How much difference would it make if it were a 1/3 less in height compared to shortening the cue, I'd probably leave it if it were me.

            The tip just looks like an Elk that hasn't been taken down and played in. If so you could just take a bit off and let it play in?
            Apologies for coming in on your thread dmorley85 but I would like to ask a non-ferrule question if I may.
            When I put a new tip on my cue, which I have done recently, I always leave it the thickness that it is and just put a slight dome on it. I have read before of people 'taking the tip down', by how much should I do it and what are the advantages please.
            The only advantage to taking a tip down in height is it beds in quicker and will be firmer from the start so the tip won't change in feel too much through it's time on the cue, basically it'll have a more consistent feel from fitting it to changing it, it's personal preference for how far you take it down, personally I always leave plenty of height, bed the tip in and then re-shape, untill im happy with it, takes a bit longer to get the tip the way you want it but it's entirely down to what each player likes.
            Last edited by Dave Walton; 3rd August 2017, 11:15 AM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dmorley85 View Post
              I've attached a picture of my team mates tip and ferrule. He asked me to take the cue home and shape the tip for him properly as the tip is a bit flat and too high. Upon looking at the tip and ferrule, I couldn't help noticing that the ferrule seemed far too long (maybe just me but I don't think so). I was told by the local cue doctor fairly recently that the length of a ferrule is best being not any longer than the actual width of the tip that is on the cue. What do you guys think about it? Are there any advantages to having a longer or shorter ferrule? Also the tip seems quite spongy and too soft. I told my team mate that I can shape the tip better than it is at the moment, but ideally he needs to take his cue to our local cue doctor and ask to have a new shorter ferrule put on it and change the tip on it to a medium hardness.
              The ferrule is fine, it needs the scratches polishing out but otherwise leave it alone. The tip could be a dud and the fibers are lifting or its just not bedded in yet, or of course it's just naturally a soft tip, take the height down a bit and if it's still too soft after a few frames change the tip for him.

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              • #8
                I suggest not changing the ferrule and as for the tip...dome it and then lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or so to bed it in and then dome it. It looks like an Elk Master so it will need re-shaping in a little while anyway.
                Terry Davidson
                IBSF Master Coach & Examiner

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Terry Davidson View Post
                  I suggest not changing the ferrule and as for the tip...dome it and then lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or so to bed it in and then dome it. It looks like an Elk Master so it will need re-shaping in a little while anyway.
                  Years ago Terry we had a decent century breaker at the club who I saw tapping his tip into the wall with his cue like a machine gun.

                  When I asked him what he was doing he said it was quicker to break his tip in like this, couldn't say he was wrong.
                  Snooker Crazy - Cues and Equipment Sales Website
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                  • #10
                    This is the before & after of the tip & ferrule. I did the best I could with it.

                    Before: thumbnail_photo.jpg

                    After: thumbnail_photo (1).jpg

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dmorley85 View Post
                      This is the before & after of the tip & ferrule. I did the best I could with it.

                      Before: [ATTACH]18849[/ATTACH]

                      After: [ATTACH]18850[/ATTACH]
                      Looks a lot better now.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Terry Davidson View Post
                        I suggest not changing the ferrule and as for the tip...dome it and then lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or so to bed it in and then dome it. It looks like an Elk Master so it will need re-shaping in a little while anyway.
                        Are there any problems with changing the ferrule? Do you lose any length in the cue? Is it not just a case of taking the old one off and gluing a new one on? Oversimplification perhaps?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bigmeek View Post
                          Originally posted by Terry Davidson View Post
                          I suggest not changing the ferrule and as for the tip...dome it and then lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or so to bed it in and then dome it. It looks like an Elk Master so it will need re-shaping in a little while anyway.
                          Are there any problems with changing the ferrule? Do you lose any length in the cue? Is it not just a case of taking the old one off and gluing a new one on? Oversimplification perhaps?
                          The old tenor will probably not fit the new ferrule so the whole length of shaft under the old ferrule will need to be taken off to fit the new ferrule. Not a biggie but probably not worth changing if the player likes the feel of the cue as is
                          See how he likes the new tip first
                          Last edited by DeanH; 4th August 2017, 10:53 PM.
                          Up the TSF!

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bigmeek View Post
                            Originally posted by Terry Davidson View Post
                            I suggest not changing the ferrule and as for the tip...dome it and then lightly tap it with a hammer for a minute or so to bed it in and then dome it. It looks like an Elk Master so it will need re-shaping in a little while anyway.
                            Are there any problems with changing the ferrule? Do you lose any length in the cue? Is it not just a case of taking the old one off and gluing a new one on? Oversimplification perhaps?
                            Sometimes yes but more often than not the internal diameter of the ferrule will be different, so you may have to thin the tenon or worse, create a new tenon completely slightly shortening the cue.

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