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  • #16
    Although Ferrules are made straight, when fitting it's easy for them to end up slightly smaller at the top because of the taper of the shaft and will often happen when cleaning the ferrule after retipping, brass is pretty soft.

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    • #17
      Originally Posted by Mark187187 View Post
      I don't think I've experienced a ferule taper of 0.3m on a new cue. Maybe after a few years of cleaning and playing that amount of material may have been removed. I suppose an issue could be, like VMax says, a small tipped cue could have a thinner walled ferule and removing another 0.3mm from this is probably going to have some impact on how long it will last if the owner cleans/polishes it too often. If I acquired an older cue with this much taper I'd get someone to look at it, because you don't want to cause damage to the shaft by playing with an overly weakened ferule.
      To be honest Mark an awful lot of old cues without ferrules have survived for 50 years or more after bashing around heavier balls on slow tables, though these tended to have tips 10mm or above. Like I stated before the brass threaded ferrules below 10mm diameter have the same side wall thickness as the the larger ones in order to encompass the same size thread, which leaves quite a small hole in the middle so a small tenon needs to be cut, the smaller the tenon the weaker the end of the cue will be.

      We have to be careful here as thousands of people around the world now will be measuring their ferrules looking for something to blame for their poor performance at this game, when it really doesn't matter.

      I can see it now "I waited four years for my Parris ultimate only to discover it has a ferrule with a 0.02mm difference between top and bottom, with this and staring at my 5mm uneven splices while playing it's no wonder I can't get on with it". :upset:
      Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
      but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

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      • #18
        Thank you, that's a good point. I was just speaking from personal experience, I don't think that this is a big deal. If I had any concerns about a part of one of my cues I'd get it checked out. There does seem to be higher expectations for 'perfect' cues nowadays, and this makes things very difficult for cuemakers with people having unrealistic expectations for things which don't really matter. The OP asked if something was normal. I suppose the important point is whether it matters, and in this case it probably doesn't. If there was a problem it would be obvious i.e. the ferrule would be showing signs of stress, and I suppose if that was the case they wouldn't be posting questions on here, they'd have the cue at the doctors. 😀

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Mark187187 View Post
          Thank you, that's a good point. I was just speaking from personal experience, I don't think that this is a big deal. If I had any concerns about a part of one of my cues I'd get it checked out. There does seem to be higher expectations for 'perfect' cues nowadays, and this makes things very difficult for cuemakers with people having unrealistic expectations for things which don't really matter. The OP asked if something was normal. I suppose the important point is whether it matters, and in this case it probably doesn't. If there was a problem it would be obvious i.e. the ferrule would be showing signs of stress, and I suppose if that was the case they wouldn't be posting questions on here, they'd have the cue at the doctors. 😀
          Thanks for the replies everyone, very interesting. The only problem Mark is that the cue doctor that lived near me sadly passed away a few months ago and a lot of people used to go to him. I can re-fit tips but I don't have a lathe to fit new ferrules etc. Does anyone know of any good cue doctors or shops near Bury Lancashire or surrounding areas? I'd be willing to travel to Manchester at the furthest as I don't drive! I know there's a place in Manchester on Stockport Road called Snooker Shop but I don't know if it's any good or not. Bolton would be better but I don't think there's any places in Bolton.
          Last edited by dmorley85; 31 January 2018, 03:10 AM.

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          • #20
            Originally Posted by dmorley85 View Post
            Thanks for the replies everyone, very interesting. The only problem Mark is that the cue doctor that lived near me sadly passed away a few months ago and a lot of people used to go to him. I can re-fit tips but I don't have a lathe to fit new ferrules etc. Does anyone know of any good cue doctors or shops near Bury Lancashire or surrounding areas? I'd be willing to travel to Manchester at the furthest as I don't drive! I know there's a place in Manchester on Stockport Road called Snooker Shop but I don't know if it's any good or not. Bolton would be better but I don't think there's any places in Bolton.
            When you take the tip off does the side wall of the ferrule look really thin or shows signs of stress ie: tiny cracks ?
            If not then leave it alone unless you want a bigger tip.

            You can easily replace a ferrule without using a lathe; heat the ferrule with a hair dryer to expand the metal and melt any glue and then carefully screw it off holding it with a pair of pliers. Clean off any glue residue from the tenon and then apply a small amount of epoxy all round and fit new ferrule by screwing it on while holding it in a pair of pliers with ferrule wrapped in a small piece of cloth to prevent any major scratching; non threaded ferrules should be gently tapped on with a small hammer against a piece of metal held against the ferrule to prevent edge damage from a mistimed hammer stroke.

            Clean off any epoxy residue with white spirit or meths and leave overnight to set, once set file top of the cue and ferrule flat (if needed) with a fine diamond file by using short strokes drawn toward you while turning the cue 1/4 turn with each stroke. Then clean ferrule with 300 grit sandpaper and finally with 0000 wire wool for a bright finish.
            Diamond files are very cheap and can be found in your nearest poundshop.
            Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
            but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by vmax View Post
              When you take the tip off does the side wall of the ferrule look really thin or shows signs of stress ie: tiny cracks ?
              If not then leave it alone unless you want a bigger tip.

              You can easily replace a ferrule without using a lathe; heat the ferrule with a hair dryer to expand the metal and melt any glue and then carefully screw it off holding it with a pair of pliers. Clean off any glue residue from the tenon and then apply a small amount of epoxy all round and fit new ferrule by screwing it on while holding it in a pair of pliers with ferrule wrapped in a small piece of cloth to prevent any major scratching; non threaded ferrules should be gently tapped on with a small hammer against a piece of metal held against the ferrule to prevent edge damage from a mistimed hammer stroke.

              Clean off any epoxy residue with white spirit or meths and leave overnight to set, once set file top of the cue and ferrule flat (if needed) with a fine diamond file by using short strokes drawn toward you while turning the cue 1/4 turn with each stroke. Then clean ferrule with 300 grit sandpaper and finally with 0000 wire wool for a bright finish.
              Diamond files are very cheap and can be found in your nearest poundshop.
              Thanks for that info vmax. What's the best way to get the correct size ferrule so it fits perfect, just measure the width at the top of the shaft before the tennon starts and then get a ferrule that size? Are ferrule diameters measured from outer to outer or inner to inner? Also what's the best glue to use for a ferrule, maybe Araldite? What about superglue gel? Is a threaded ferrule better than a pigeon ring ferrule?

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              • #22
                Originally Posted by dmorley85 View Post
                Thanks for that info vmax. What's the best way to get the correct size ferrule so it fits perfect, just measure the width at the top of the shaft before the tennon starts and then get a ferrule that size? Are ferrule diameters measured from outer to outer or inner to inner? Also what's the best glue to use for a ferrule, maybe Araldite? What about superglue gel? Is a threaded ferrule better than a pigeon ring ferrule?
                I'd use epoxy as it melts with heat thus making it easier to replace anything simply by heating it. Ferrules are measured by their outer diameter, if you want to replace your ferrule yourself then take it off and check whether it's threaded or pidgeon ring and replace with the same as the tenon will be a similar size.
                Type 'snooker cue ferrules' into the ebay search box and take a look, don't confuse threaded ferrules with those for screw on tips. Peradon do many different sizes, over and out as I'm now off to work.
                Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
                but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally Posted by vmax View Post
                  I'd use epoxy as it melts with heat thus making it easier to replace anything simply by heating it. Ferrules are measured by their outer diameter, if you want to replace your ferrule yourself then take it off and check whether it's threaded or pidgeon ring and replace with the same as the tenon will be a similar size.
                  Type 'snooker cue ferrules' into the ebay search box and take a look, don't confuse threaded ferrules with those for screw on tips. Peradon do many different sizes, over and out as I'm now off to work.
                  Thanks for the info vmax. My current ferrule is 8.9mm at the bottom so am I best buying a 9mm ferrule or a bigger ferrule and then reduce the side wall on the ferrule. Or just get a 9mm one and keep the side wall as it is? Could you use a dremel with a grinding disc attached to take the ferrule down if it's too high rather than a diamond file to be more precise and get the ferrule flatter on the top?

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                  • #24
                    Nice answers vmax.

                    One point I might add is that if you have measured your ferrule at 8.9 are you using a digital vernier?

                    I went through 3 last year until I gave up and went with a dial vernier (non digital) and everything then measured more accurately - click here.

                    You may not have this problem as it may well in fact be an 8.9 ferrule but just thought I'd point it out as I had the ferrule last year measuring all sorts of different readings!
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                    • #25
                      Originally Posted by Shockerz View Post
                      Nice answers vmax.

                      One point I might add is that if you have measured your ferrule at 8.9 are you using a digital vernier?

                      I went through 3 last year until I gave up and went with a dial vernier (non digital) and everything then measured more accurately - click here.

                      You may not have this problem as it may well in fact be an 8.9 ferrule but just thought I'd point it out as I had the ferrule last year measuring all sorts of different readings!
                      I've used a digital vernier Shokerz. I've measured it a few times and it has said 8.9mm each time so it seems pretty accurate. Am I best buying a 9mm ferrule or a bigger ferrule and then reduce the side wall on the ferrule? Or just get a 9mm one and keep the side wall as it is? Could you use a dremel with a grinding disc attached to take the ferrule down if it's too high rather than a diamond file to be more precise and get the ferrule flatter on the top?

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                      • #26
                        Originally Posted by dmorley85 View Post
                        I've used a digital vernier Shokerz. I've measured it a few times and it has said 8.9mm each time so it seems pretty accurate. Am I best buying a 9mm ferrule or a bigger ferrule and then reduce the side wall on the ferrule? Or just get a 9mm one and keep the side wall as it is? Could you use a dremel with a grinding disc attached to take the ferrule down if it's too high rather than a diamond file to be more precise and get the ferrule flatter on the top?
                        You would be best leaving it to a professional. In your first post you said you would prefer tip to be 9.25 to 9.7mm, just use your digital vernier to see how much would need taking off to get ferrule to 9.5mm. If it's too short it's not worth doing unless you can add length with 4 lower splices on butt. Maybe buy a cue with standard snooker specs and sell the other to a pool player.

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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by vmax View Post
                          No, the cue is final fine sanded, wire wooled and finished with the ferrule in situ so the taper on the shaft will follow to the ferrule. This 0.3 of a millimetre difference is more than the taper of the cue but is probably just the result of the taking off and fitting of many tips over the years, the top of the ferrule will always come down a tad when a tip is cut down and shaped and the glue removed from the ferrule with fine sandpaper.
                          Brass isn't a hard alloy and is easily sanded down to size. Brass ferrules with internal threads have quite a thick side wall and for a 9.25mm final size I would fit a 10mm and take it down to 9.25mm along with the final fine sanding and wire wooling of the shaft leaving a ferrule with a thinner side wall that gives less defection to the cue ball.
                          I agree with this, also if you fit a ferrule like this, you might not have to shorten your cue, just make the ferrule the shape of a bell. narrow at bottom flush to cue then wider as it goes up to the tip end. I dont like the idea of shortening your cue, you might not like the way it plays after its done. Just a suggestion, Cheers, P.S. I got this done to mine and it plays great...
                          I try hard, play hard and dont always succeed, at first.!!!!:snooker:

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