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Cues manufacture technicality

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  • Cues manufacture technicality

    As I am fairly new to this cue production and manufacturing world, I have some dillemas that I need your help with.

    1. How is possible for 3/4 cue to be spliced when the butt is completly detachable from the shaft? Where are the splices then? And what's the point of having them?
    2. Are there "unspliced" cues on the market (just painted) or every cue is spliced whetherwhether hand or machine? (One piece and 3/4 cue

    Thank you

  • #2
    (not a cue-maker ) Generally they add butt splicing of ebony or rosewood (most common) to add weight to the cue, either the splicing themselves or to hidden the added weight (lead sluigs0 added to the shaft.. Without splicing a cue will be very light.

    1. they do the slicing and then cut the cue for the joint. Also if the joint is no where near the butt splices points (top & bottom) and any "front splicing" you can do the "front splicing" after cutting.
    2. I have only seen two cues that had no butts splicing and they were very nice ash 1pc cues, both were light at around 16oz - both owners were used to them as they had had the cues for years.

    I hope our resident cue-makers come on and add their comments
    Up the TSF! :snooker:

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you for your answer. It does make sense. So basically, a cue heavier than 16oz is almost impossible to be unspliced, right? Even if the butt is made from dense ebony there is no point of not adding the splicing on such a premium wood. Thanks mate

      Comment


      • #4
        1. Most 3/4 jointed cues are made with a solid wood butt, very rare that it's solid ebony as this can be quite expensive so it's usually a generic hardwood that's been dyed black. The splices above the joint on the shaft are ebony as these are quite small and therefore relatively inexpensive. Some 3/4 jointed cues are made as a one piece and then split to 3/4, some have been used as a one piece for many years before being split at the 3/4 point at the behest of the owner probably for ease of transport.

        2. There are many unspliced cues on the market that are simply painted to look like they have been spliced, these are relatively cheap in price, there are some cues on the market that are unspliced and unpainted, some have just the one decorative splice where the badge sits on the mace flat some don't even have that. These cues are weighted by drilling up from the end of the butt and inserting a length of steel bar, otherwise they would be very light at around fourteen ounces, kiln or air dried ash or maple isn't very heavy so cues are spliced with a heavier hardwood or weighted to give some substance to them in the hand. Cues that weigh over 16 ounces are usually spliced and weighted.

        Hope this helps
        Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
        but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

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        • #5
          That makes perfect sense, yes. But how can I be sure when buying a cue, especially online, if the cue is spliced or painted or whatever?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally Posted by Martin_Lee View Post
            That makes perfect sense, yes. But how can I be sure when buying a cue, especially online, if the cue is spliced or painted or whatever?
            Genuine ebony ALWAYS has flecks of brown in it, if it doesn't then it's a dyed generic hardwood or it's been painted. Check the sellers description, 'ebonised' is a give away that it's been treated to look like ebony, if it states ebony and it isn't then you have a genuine grievance.
            Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
            but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks a lot mate. I really appreciate it. Cheers

              Comment


              • #8
                All of what Vmax says is true but it doesn't mean to say any of these cues are bad cues, they could all play well, it's important to learn about these things so you know what your buying and don't over pay or get ripped off. Most of the less expensive cues will be "enhanced" shall we say but as long as the price reflects that, then you are getting what you paid for and they can play very well.
                This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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                • #9
                  That is a marvelous point to have in mind. Very helpful. Cheers mate.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'll second that, when I started playing again I had bought a cheap Jian Ying Chinese painted butt cue that I played pretty well with, but spent many hours and research finding and trying several other more expensive cues until I finally found one that I could play just about as well with.....
                    ⚪ 🔴🟡🟢🟤🔵💗⚫🕳️😎

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                    • #11
                      Thank you for sharing that. I also agree that getting to know your tools is far more important than having the "best" tools. Are you somewhat connected with Cue Craft company (because of the name and the logo)?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by Martin_Lee View Post
                        Thank you for sharing that. I also agree that getting to know your tools is far more important than having the "best" tools. Are you somewhat connected with Cue Craft company (because of the name and the logo)?
                        No not at all connected, long time ago now when I chose my avatar and just liked the logo and the fact I could change the name slightly to something that made me smile! (If you zoom in it's easier to see it's Crafty)
                        ⚪ 🔴🟡🟢🟤🔵💗⚫🕳️😎

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
                          All of what Vmax says is true but it doesn't mean to say any of these cues are bad cues, they could all play well, it's important to learn about these things so you know what your buying and don't over pay or get ripped off. Most of the less expensive cues will be "enhanced" shall we say but as long as the price reflects that, then you are getting what you paid for and they can play very well.
                          That Asia cue that I posted pictures of is a case in point, badged as an ultimate and sold for over four hundred quid but with a painted or dyed butt. Yes you could buy one and it could play very well, but only if you're a good player the average club snooker player, and I include myself here, might as well get something for half of that price and might even get real ebony if one is lucky.
                          Those chinese made cue and case specials that cue crafty mentioned are very, very good value for what they are. I bought one for a mate as he's not online and he loved it at first, but suddenly it became a crap cue when I told him it wasn't real ebony and simply painted so I bought it back, took off the paint and underneath was some nice dark hardwood with a pleasing grain pattern, sold it on at a profit. Some people seem to think that ebony will pot the balls for you
                          Buy a cue, get used to it and keep it 👌
                          Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
                          but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Great points

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