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Ferruling old cues

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  • Ferruling old cues

    Opinions/advise please ...i have a fair few old cues with no ferrules...some over 100 years old.Obviously it's unwise to play with them with just wafers on.Would it be sacrilege to ferrule them or should I just not use them

  • #2
    I'm interested in other opinions here too. My gut feeling is that vintage cues are losing their market, as the older generations pass on. Seems to me they are in the main unfit for the modern game unless remastered by skillful people like J6 on here.

    I say this based on my bad habit of looking at cues on eBay and feel generally that the price of old cues is no longer quite what it was.. hopefully ADR147 may be able to opine here too.
    ⚪ 🔴🟡🟢🟤🔵💗⚫🕳️😎

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    • #3
      I think you hit the nail on the head on prices...theyve definitely dropped off in my opinion...some on eBay have plummeted. I get 5he awful feeling it's the gas and electric taking all our spending power that may cause some of it.But yes in general I have found the majority of my old cues play horrendously...by that I mean the general feel of them..especially the under 15oz ones.

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      • #4
        This becomes the issue to me, mess around and make useable ( some terrific shafts on these old cues) or leave as be and store on a cupboard where no none will love or appreciate them.... I'd go with remastering myself. Make do and mend fits well with me.
        ​​​​​​
        ⚪ 🔴🟡🟢🟤🔵💗⚫🕳️😎

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        • #5
          I completely agree...i bought a Burroughs and Watts brochure from the 50s...which actually showed most cues in their range did not come with ferrules as standard.The high end ones did.So you had to request a ferrule on 5he cheaper cues...so from a purist point of view it's not absolutely terrible to retrofit a cue to make it playable

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          • #6
            Cues are made to be played with. If they are up to playing in modern conditions I would definitely refurbed them.
            If they're not, or of course if they are very rare and are a special cue in some way, then leave them alone.
            This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
            https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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            • #7
              Thanks for the response...i fully agree on the rarer cues to not ferrule them...ive ferruled a few of the more common 1930s cues ..like the Riley cue and similar...not least because they play quite nicely and I don't want them splitting.Im thinking the billiard era cues , say pre 1900 were never meant to be used for 'power' shots so didn't need them.

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              • #8
                I'm going to make a 2mm deep ferrule from steel at work and black it so it looks like a thick wafer...then try it on an older cue ...only other way is 2 mil brass and paint it..but the paint might come off in use on the table.Ill try on a cheaper common cue.

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                • #9
                  Originally Posted by GR1 View Post
                  I'm going to make a 2mm deep ferrule from steel at work and black it so it looks like a thick wafer...then try it on an older cue ...only other way is 2 mil brass and paint it..but the paint might come off in use on the table.Ill try on a cheaper common cue.
                  Steel is a nice idea if you can hot oil dip to black it.
                  ⚪ 🔴🟡🟢🟤🔵💗⚫🕳️😎

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                  • #10
                    Yea...just at 2mm deep to simulate a wafer...then if anyone in future want to bring the cue back to original state..its only 2mm to remove. I'm going to turn the steel down in the vertical Miller and drill out...as you say heat it and oil dip.Generally it shouldn't rust as the spirit glue will stop moisture and air getting to the inside and the outside can have a Matt varnish.

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                    • #11
                      It's best of both worlds...being able to use a 150 year old cue in a proper way rather than worrying it's going to split

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                      • #12
                        I think I may have solved the 'should I ferrule or not conundrum...ive twined and superglued strong black cotton thread around the underneath of the tip on a very old cue to mimic a wafer..about 2mm deep.Up to now...ive given it some decent force...without being daft.Obviously it sits slightly proud of the shaft but I've put an oversize tip on to fit it.I just have to get used to the slight bulge.At anytime the cotton can be removed.

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                        • #13
                          Clearly outline your objectives, expected outcomes, and service level requirements. Communicate these expectations to the potential providers during the evaluation process.
                          https://mlsdev.com/blog/outsourced-it-services-guide
                          Last edited by Rubyf; 20 July 2023, 01:02 PM.

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                          • #14
                            As a final on this one...ive twined 4 old cues with black cotton thread and superglue just under the tip on 3 old unferruled cues.A B&W..W.Cook pre 1910..a Wright's 24 medal cue after 1908..an 1874ish..W.Cook Pattern cue by Cox and Yeman and a probably 1940s Cannon Match cue.Ive put them through their paces , playing some fairly heavy power shots and a few games and it works perfectly well.Theg do sound quite nice on striking...the tips being sat directly onto wood rather than a ferrule.

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                            • #15
                              Any chance of some pictures of your collection, can't beat a nice cue collection
                              This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                              https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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