north wales cases, market research

[ADR147]

i really dont understand why people think a lighter case is not as protective its absolute nonsense. if the case is built correctly then the weight of the wood shouldnt be a problem.

your physics teacher will be crying!

[nostawmail]

your physics teacher will be crying!

so your telling me it would be better to make a case (as a lot are) with mdf and because its heavy and that would make it better than say plywood????????

a lighter wood which is very strong built on a frame across a small area say 90mm width

[ADR147]

of course plywood will be stronger but as a general rule the heavier something is the stronger it is - try slapping a prop forward!

[cally]

Lol......

[poolqjunkie]

Sitting behind a nice solid wood antique desk is very different from sitting behind an Ikea desk made with particle board.
I would choose solid wood over plywood, medium density board, or particle board any day but perhaps I am just old school.

[finabb]

A few questions here, would like your input please.


1- Should i add straps as standard on all my cases ?No they dont look good and

2- What internal width would you consider to be a slimline case ? ]The width of the cue and extension, The width of the cue and extension,

3- Should i keep my cases solid and heavy ? or do you think they need lightening ? ie shaving the wood thinner before i make the box sections. a little lighter

4- should i embroider my logo on to the handle of each case (optional) of corse ?if its free

I would welcome any comments, good or bad !

cheers crispian.

Also a fix compartment for chalk etc, the suede rolls dont really work.
Still love my case though.

[ADR147]

Sitting behind a nice solid wood antique desk is very different from sitting behind an Ikea desk made with particle board.
I would choose solid wood over plywood, medium density board, or particle board any day but perhaps I am just old school.

yes but for a leather case layers are stronger.

[poolqjunkie]

A Stamford case is quite a bit lighter than Crispian's case. What does Stamford uses? I do not believe the difference is like that between MDP and plywood. It is more like balsa wood vs solid maple.
Is Stamford using MDP?
Stamford's case feels almost the same in weight as those cases from China.
Crispian's case feels very solid which speaks of quality, durability, and class.
By the way, Tony Glover's cases were quite heavy, too, weren't they?

[Neil Taperell]

I had a Glover case Airin , Full length for a 3/4 cue [ No i don't know why either ] . Very heavy but top quality .

[cally]

Not alot needs changing on crispians cases really, come on they would be the same as all the others if he starts adding straps etc......

crispians cases are spot on IMO, and i don't see the fuss about weight, i have an earlier case of crispians and i dont find it heavy really. and they are a bit slimmer now. it feels well built and solid.
Lighter always feels cheaper and less well made. Like amost things you buy, top end stuff is always heavier than inferior/cheaper made shat... same applies to most/majority of things you buy. ??

If i paid over 200 quid for a case and it felt like balsa wood i wouldn;t be impressed as it WOULD feel terribly cheap , but that maybe just me, i dunno...

So i reckon not too bother worrying about the 'weight'

End protectors would be good but i don't know what you would put there that will fit in and look good! (maybe subtle brushed chrome plates, like very slim, rounded runners that wrap the corners and taper down to a thinner edge,(if ya get me) just enough to stop contact to the leather????)

And leave the straps off, they are not needed.. (IMO)

Maybe start doing a few std 'off the shelf cases' and add as many ''extra" options to a order form as you feel wouldn;t take up too much time/fuss, like a sort of parris cue builder, ppl can add options on what they want then... and have straps if they wanted like....

Just a thought...

[DeanH]

(maybe subtle brushed chrome plates, like very slim, rounded runners that wrap the corners and taper down to a thinner edge,(if ya get me) just enough to stop contact to the leather????)

ooh "brushed chrome" end protectors! they could be good!

[crispian jones]

thanks guys, i am watching this thread, and have been toying with a few ideas, i dont add straps for the simple reason "i dont like them"! and when i ask about the weight, all i would have done is thin the edges a few mm so it would not have been to big a difference, but in doing this it would mean snipping the screws a few mm to, so i might just leave it be

[ashbash]

A few questions here, would like your input please.


1- Should i add straps as standard on all my cases ?
I would have to say no leave everything as a option if possible
2- What internal width would you consider to be a slimline case ?
Not sure to be honest? I would have thought as long as you get just a one cue in the case and its secure bobs your uncle sorted?
3- Should i keep my cases solid and heavy ? or do you think they need lightening ? ie shaving the wood thinner before i make the box sections.
yes if you can still make it secure and sturdy enough
4- should i embroider my logo on to the handle of each case (optional) of corse ?
If its not asked for then why give yourself the extra work?
I would welcome any comments, good or bad !

cheers crispian.

Hi Crispin, good to see you thinking of making some changes.
I would add protectors for the ends of the cases mines scuffed and it looks crap Like the look of Airins protective ends it blends I with the case rather than spoiling the look so something like that would be good
Neil makes a good point about the new extensions, the screw bit is really thick and in my case it squashed into the center of the case so if you could do something about that? It would be great
A compartment to put all your bits and bobs in would be great. I use a chalk pouch and I have to fold it up and squeeze it beside the long extension.

[Neil Taperell]

[ Neil makes a good point about the new extensions, the screw bit is really thick and in my case it squashed into the center of the case so if you could do something about that? It would be great A compartment to put all your bits and bobs in would be great. I use a chalk pouch and I have to fold it up and squeeze it beside the long extension.[/QUOTE]

Mine is actually putting pressure on the latches and it does not matter where in the case you put the extension , so much so that the latches do not catch correctly .

They have definately made them bigger , as it never happened before with my previous cue and extension . And obviously not a fault with the case .

[crispian jones]

[ Neil makes a good point about the new extensions, the screw bit is really thick and in my case it squashed into the center of the case so if you could do something about that? It would be great A compartment to put all your bits and bobs in would be great. I use a chalk pouch and I have to fold it up and squeeze it beside the long extension.

Mine is actually putting pressure on the latches and it does not matter where in the case you put the extension , so much so that the latches do not catch correctly .

They have definately made them bigger , as it never happened before with my previous cue and extension . And obviously not a fault with the case .[/QUOTE]

i have done some cases with less padding in the bottom to house the coller of extensions better, but i would need to know how the intended layout was for this beforehand.

i dont think i will be adding straps just yet, but will definatly look in to the end protectors ! (although i hate them)

i think that the case is to protect your cue, but it seems like there is a need for case protection to, so there could possibly be a gap in the maket for a "cue case case protector" ha ha.

my answer is - 3/4 high jointed cues all round = shorter cases = less chance of scuffs = less wood = less leather = less suede = less glue = less thread = less postage costs = a better world all round (more hapy bunnies) ha ha