My workshop

[the lone wolf]

some fantastic looking cues being made on here, what do people prefer to use for solid butts or splices?

i have genuine and Argentine Lignum vitae if anyone is interested?

i also have Olivewood, african heavy mahogany, Wenge, rippled Jarrah, Angelim pedra and many more if anyone is interested?

Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

PM if preferred

[se7enthhell]

these are them rough but i do have a pic of a finished bit somewhere.

[se7enthhell]

one of my containers.

[se7enthhell]

these were a couple of blanks i sold. and another pic of a block.

[se7enthhell]

Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

PM if preferred

this is the heavy mahogany finished with just danish oil.

Species, Khaya grandifoliola or Khaya senegalensis.

[se7enthhell]

Do you have pics of the African heavy mahogany?

I'm currently having a few cues made and maybe able to do a deal for one cue which hasn't been spliced yet.

PM if preferred

this is a block that is super heavy and already sanded to 150g all 4 sides i think. i sanded this bit to 400g and added a bit of oil to see how nicely it came up.

[the lone wolf]

WOW!
Look really nice some of those pieces

[se7enthhell]

WOW!
Look really nice some of those pieces

it polishes up a treat and should look really nice as bits of snooker cue. the one i have here is 55lbft3 5"sq or i have some 2"sq

[vmax]

Some pics of the J. Ashcroft & Co one piece maple machined spliced cue I've just bought. 58 inches long, 16oz's, rosewood butt, 11mm tip and pro tapered which means that it's 11mm for 12 inches before it starts to taper out to the butt. It's a dead ringer dimension wise to the cue I used for UK 8 ball back in the 70/80's when I won the town championship.
The maple shaft is dead straight and top grade, rosewood butt is very worn at the end so needs taking care of. I will keep the pro taper, will fit a ferrule, a decorative front splice or even something more substantial. I've got lots of timber to choose from, ebony, palmira, wenge, purple heart, marblewood, leopard wood, ipe tabaca, thuya burl, mahogany, bocote, walnut and others that I can't remember and maple and wenge veneer and many wood dyes.

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[vmax]

Work in progress

In image one I've cut off a splice on my bandsaw that contains the badge and removed the badge.
In image two I've planed the splice down and sanded it on the belt sander to reveal most of the solid steel bar that's used as a weight
In image three I've cut around the weight with a chisel so that it can be removed
In image four weight removed
In image five buffalo horn ferrule added, don't worry it'll look good when sanded down and polished.
As one can see it's a bit of a pig to to remove the weight in order to hand splice over the top of the machine splices, the hole where the weight was will be gone when planed right back for new splices both there and opposite on the other side of the butt, then it will be a case of drilling and plugging some lead for weights under the splices which will move the balance point forward and a small steel bar added in the end of the butt to balance it.

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[vmax]

Busy this morning
Planed over the machine splice until the tip will be hidden by a new splice
Drilled and plugged with lead weight
Glued and clamped new wenge splices

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[vmax]

Finished it

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[akofb]

What a fantastic job! It's really interesting to see the steps you have taken to get the cue looking better then new again. Will you be using it Vmax?

[vmax]

What a fantastic job! It's really interesting to see the steps you have taken to get the cue looking better then new again. Will you be using it Vmax?

No, it's too short and too light for me, my own cue is 60.5 inches long and weighs 20 oz's. Had a few shots with it last night just to make sure that nothing rattled (nothing did) just an experiment really to see if it could be done. The core of the original machine spliced butt is still intact though there isn't that much left of it apart from the actual join, but the join is very strong and in no way affects the structural strength of the cue, the glue is stronger than the wood so the advertising blurb goes.
The butt doesn't have matching wenge splices as I used a few odd bits I had left over from other jobs as I didn't want to waste good timber on something that might not have worked, so it's not aesthetically pleasing to the eye but as a functioning tool for potting balls it works.
If I ever do it again I'll use better timber and increase the weight as well as move the balance forward in order to make it more sellable (is that a word?) as a snooker cue, as it is it's good for billiards so if that's your game give me a pm

[Cue crafty]

This could be a good fixer upper VMAX, If you can get it near the starting price. It's got a Bob Akers joint which is pretty rare. Bob was spoken about on the forum years ago and it could be of real interest to the right person if tidied up and lengthened. Just a thought whilst I was bored and killing time. 😉


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OLD-SNOOK...edirect=mobile

Found some nice info about Bob and his workshop etc. Really was a real piece of the history of cue evolution.


http://mybilliardsyear.blogspot.com/...bob-akers.html