Wire Wool On Cue...Yes Or No???

[jonny66]

NO!
Would you take an axe to a shaft to make it smooth?
Axes and wire wool are made up of similar properties.
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Use fine sandpaper and or wet & dry paper. The finer the better :snooker:

You do know that the stuff they use to make sandpaper rough is harder than steel don't you?

[the lone wolf]

Wet & Dry paper. No need to look any further...
Depending how deep the shaft needs to be cleaned I'd recommend 400 (for deep cleaning) going upto 1200 wet and dry.
1200 will give the sweetest finish to a shaft, but more so to a maple shaft.
How do I know?
I'm a pro model maker by education and once upon a time had the need to finish wood to make it look like plastic.
I could do a video but a video can not clearly demonstrate the finish using wet and dry + I don't have the time.
A live demonstration would be best...
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I'd take the Pepsi challenge of my wet and dry technique up against anyone who wants to apply steel to their cue!
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For reference, I have used wire wool on a shaft and will never do so again.
This is my own conclusion :snooker:

[markz]

Wet & Dry paper. No need to look any further...
Depending how deep the shaft needs to be cleaned I'd recommend 400 (for deep cleaning) going upto 1200 wet and dry.
1200 will give the sweetest finish to a shaft, but more so to a maple shaft.
How do I know?
I'm a pro model maker by education and once upon a time had the need to finish wood to make it look like plastic.
I could do a video but a video can not clearly demonstrate the finish using wet and dry + I don't have the time.
A live demonstration would be best...
---
I'd take the Pepsi challenge of my wet and dry technique up against anyone who wants to apply steel to their cue!
---
For reference, I have used wire wool on a shaft and will never do so again.
This is my own conclusion :snooker:

What happened to the cue you tried wire wool on?

[the lone wolf]

What happened to the cue you tried wire wool on?

It was ok but nothing I should do again nor recommend.
It my belief that wire wool is used to get into the grain of the ash. But this is not necessary as the grain in most case is black anyway.
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In the past I have taken the poor finish from some so called new cues and finished them myself for friends. :snooker:

[Shockerz]

It was ok but nothing I should do again nor recommend.
It my belief that wire wool is used to get into the grain of the ash. But this is not necessary as the grain in most case is black anyway.
---
In the past I have taken the poor finish from some so called new cues and finished them myself for friends. :snooker:

I see where you're coming from but even at 1, 2 and 3,000 aren't you still taking wood from the cue?

I take it 0000 is 10,000 grit at an equivalent measure, so less wood?

I see where you're going but surely the grade depicts how much of a surface will be removed, or it doesn't work that way........more of a question than an answer I know.

[Big Splash!]

Wet & Dry paper. No need to look any further...
Depending how deep the shaft needs to be cleaned I'd recommend 400 (for deep cleaning) going upto 1200 wet and dry.
1200 will give the sweetest finish to a shaft, but more so to a maple shaft.
How do I know?
I'm a pro model maker by education and once upon a time had the need to finish wood to make it look like plastic.
I could do a video but a video can not clearly demonstrate the finish using wet and dry + I don't have the time.
A live demonstration would be best...
---
I'd take the Pepsi challenge of my wet and dry technique up against anyone who wants to apply steel to their cue!
---
For reference, I have used wire wool on a shaft and will never do so again.
This is my own conclusion :snooker:

Got to disagree with you there bud as I use oiled p2000 to finish cues and it's still not enough. I then like to use used and shiny p2000 (probably p4000 at this point), followed by wool cloth with oil, then cotton cloth with oil. Then a lot of dry cloth buffing.

But I'd never use any emery to clean a cue, totally unnecessary. A damp cloth or dry cloth after every session suffices. I say this as someone with a short, 8'' bridge to ball so I get more chalk on my cue as a result. Sticky dirt can be removed with meths or silicone. Both are non-abrasive, so why use abrasives that wear away the shaft near the ferrule and chew up a load of time?

I've said this before but I'll say it again; there is no way JP would take any abrasives of any kind to a shaft service or clean.

[Shockerz]

Got to disagree with you there bud as I use p2000 to finish cues and it's still not enough. I then like to use used and shiny p2000, followed by wool cloth with oil, then cotton cloth with oil. Then a lot of dry cloth buffing.

But I'd never use any emery to clean a cue, totally unnecessary. A damp cloth or dry cloth after every session suffices. I say this as someone with a short, 8'' bridge to ball so I get more chalk on my cue as a result. Sticky dirt can be removed with meths or silicone. Both are non-abrasive, so why use abrasive's that wear away the shaft near the ferrule?

I've said this before but I'll say it again; there is no way JP would take any abrasives of any kind to a shaft service or clean.

I've felt a refurbished shaft from Mr Parris and it was superb.

The question would remain, what does he do to get the shafts so good and they were really good.

[markz]

I've felt a refurbished shaft from Mr Parris and it was superb.

The question would remain, what does he do to get the shafts so good and they were really good.

I had the opposite, my cue came back from Parris and was as rough as hell. It couldn't have seen an oily rag either. I ended up doing it myself.

[Shockerz]

I had the opposite, my cue came back from Parris and was as rough as hell. It couldn't have seen an oily rag either. I ended up doing it myself.

Oh. Not heard that before, I was well impressed with my mates.

[itsnoteasy]

I had the opposite, my cue came back from Parris and was as rough as hell. It couldn't have seen an oily rag either. I ended up doing it myself.

The work experience boy has done yours Markz, ten to five on a Friday

[Big Splash!]

The work experience boy has done yours Markz, ten to five on a Friday

hahahaha! Some folk have complained (including Byrom) about the quality of finish of JP's NEW cues. I think for a grand, they should be like glass. Aurora did that for a third of the money.

[markz]

The work experience boy has done yours Markz, ten to five on a Friday

Next time it's going to big splash for some Angel loving lol

[Shockerz]

hahahaha! Some folk have complained (including Byrom) about the quality of finish of JP's NEW cues. I think for a grand, they should be like glass. Aurora did that for a third of the money.

Strange to have different opinions on various cues. It seems obvious that there are multiple people finishing them as you would expect but surely they don;t do it their own way, there must be a uniform approach to get the same result.

The one I looked and felt was superb and one of the best, if not the best finish I have felt and especially for smoothness.

If I could get that finish every time it would be the way forward, someone there obviously knows how to do it, maybe it needs sharing.

[itsnoteasy]

hahahaha! Some folk have complained (including Byrom) about the quality of finish of JP's NEW cues. I think for a grand, they should be like glass. Aurora did that for a third of the money.

Yep I have read others say the same Splasher, that it felt like it had no oil on it ,or very little and felt quite rough. On the flip side I have only had a hit with one JP cue and the finish on that was very good, it was an older cue though.

[the lone wolf]

I see where you're coming from but even at 1, 2 and 3,000 aren't you still taking wood from the cue?

I take it 0000 is 10,000 grit at an equivalent measure, so less wood?

I see where you're going but surely the grade depicts how much of a surface will be removed, or it doesn't work that way........more of a question than an answer I know.

OK so...
Cleaning the shaft - Use 400 wet & dry and move up. 800 is enough. Remember you can use Wet & Dry - WET! With a very damp cloth and quickly use the wet & dry in a fast motion. The heat produced will quickly dry wet residue from the shaft. Try it on a scrap piece of wood first and you'll see and feel what I mean.

Smooth shaft finish - I like to use up to 1200 wet & dry but it's not essential as 800 will do. same motion but even faster! You will need a strong wrist, but I'm sure you have had enough practice at other wrist applied actions just like myself!

To answer your questions directly;
1. MINIMAL wood is taken from the shaft - literally dust, but the majority is dirt.
2. I'm not technical enough to answer this question
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NOTE;
Using any type of wire wool will scratch the surface of any material. This is why plumbers use it to clean pipes. Its a quick way to scratch dirt away.
IMO; This is a no no on wood.
On an ash shaft it is more difficult to see the scratch marks because of the grain, but they are there. On a maple shaft it really shows and you can feel it when rubbing on either shaft.
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Further to this - I have witnessed 10's of Pool Cue Maple shafts being cleaned by professionals. Not ONE has ever used wire wool... :snooker: