Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Cue Oil. What to use?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cue Oil. What to use?

    Always been a Boiled Linseed Oil guy but changed to natural Orange Oil and love it!

  • #2
    Originally posted by wideride96 View Post
    Always been a Boiled Linseed Oil guy but changed to natural Orange Oil and love it!
    ditto - I have used it pure myself but it does darken the shaft a lot.
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by ADR147 View Post
      ditto - I have used it pure myself but it does darken the shaft a lot.
      Would you recommend thinning it out then? If so what with?

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Dom

        Used to use raw linseeed oil and it was OK but in the past 18 monts or so I have been using Mike Wooldridge's own oil both on my Black Legend and Parris cues. It works beautifully for me though it has darkened the shaft on the Parris a little. Takes a few applications to get it just so but if you follow his advice on a quick once over with 0000 gauge wire wool in between applications and persevere over a period it comes up lovely. Non sticky and quite lustrous on the ebony butts. Super smooth in the hand. It isn't the cheapest but the bottle size should do you quite a number of applications unless you have a completely untreated shaft. Dont know what is in it mind - its a "secret recipe". Though I'm biased cause I love the smell of the stuff!


        Cheers


        David

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by David Pleym View Post
          Hi Dom

          Used to use raw linseeed oil and it was OK but in the past 18 monts or so I have been using Mike Wooldridge's own oil both on my Black Legend and Parris cues. It works beautifully for me though it has darkened the shaft on the Parris a little. Takes a few applications to get it just so but if you follow his advice on a quick once over with 0000 gauge wire wool in between applications and persevere over a period it comes up lovely. Non sticky and quite lustrous on the ebony butts. Super smooth in the hand. It isn't the cheapest but the bottle size should do you quite a number of applications unless you have a completely untreated shaft. Dont know what is in it mind - its a "secret recipe". Though I'm biased cause I love the smell of the stuff!


          Cheers


          David
          Hi David,

          Thanks for the reply, I use Mike Wooldridge oil on my playing cue as it's the best finish I've found so far. I like to experiment on my other cues and occasionally refinish cues for people down at the club.I was just curious about the orange oil as i've heard it mentioned a few times now and one of the guys I play with regualrly was on about trying it.

          Regards

          Dom

          Comment


          • #6
            Some cuemakers seem to disagree on what type of linseed oil to use, some recommend boiled others recommend raw, not sure what the difference between them is.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by narl View Post
              Some cuemakers seem to disagree on what type of linseed oil to use, some recommend boiled others recommend raw, not sure what the difference between them is.
              there are driers in boiled oil.
              https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

              Comment


              • #8
                No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                  No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!
                  it is called a key.
                  https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                    No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!
                    So cuemakers have been getting it wrong for over 100 years? Doubt it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ADR147 View Post
                      it is called a key.
                      Wood soaks up oil, if it can't do so without abrasion; it's the wrong oil. My coffee table takes linseed oil. But I don't play snooker with it. Who wants to gum up a shot? Not me. Purer oils are the way fwd.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Big Splash! View Post
                        No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!
                        The John Parris cues have linseed oil all over? Website
                        Snooker Crazy - Cues and Equipment Sales Website
                        Snooker Crazy - Facebook Page
                        Snooker Crazy - You Tube Channel

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm using Howard product (Feed-N-Wax). It's blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil.
                          After applying about 2 times (each time I let the oil rest about 20min). It does finished nicely and silky smooth. But after a day game, the finishes seem fading off.
                          I have sweaty palms, those fading area are at the butt and about 6" below the tip where I use my left hand to hold the shaft while chalking with right.
                          Seem like the oil does not penetrate deep enough.
                          Should I just clean and oil the cue after every session or change to linseed oil instead?
                          It's a ash cue btw �� Would like to hear from you guys.
                          Thanks ~
                          Last edited by Fisherboi; 29th November 2016, 11:10 AM.
                          Hi Ho The Merry Yo, The Black Went In The Hole~

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Fisherboi View Post
                            I'm using Howard product (Feed-N-Wax). It's blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil.
                            After applying about 2 times (each time I let the oil rest about 20min). It does finished nicely and silky smooth. But after a day game, the finishes seem fading off.
                            I have sweaty plums, those fading area are at the butt and about 6" below the tip where I use my left hand to hold the shaft while chalking with right.
                            Seem like the oil does not penetrate deep enough.
                            Should I just clean and oil the cue after every session or change to linseed oil instead?
                            It's a ash cue btw �� Would like to hear from you guys.
                            Thanks ~
                            I'm not sure you should be holding the cue with them!

                            I think you mean sweaty palms, sweaty plums means something else completely

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jonny66 View Post
                              I'm not sure you should be holding the cue with them!

                              I think you mean sweaty palms, sweaty plums means something else completely
                              God.. Thanks. Lol..
                              Hi Ho The Merry Yo, The Black Went In The Hole~

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X