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  • Redshift
    replied
    Thanks, maybe i will.

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  • tcollick
    replied
    Yep. Terry is da man. Maybe you should pop over and see him...you guys are next door right

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  • Redshift
    replied
    Good information. Thanks. I'm new on the forum so when you say Terry, do you mean Terry Davidson (he responded to one of my posts earlier)?

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  • tcollick
    replied
    Moglet and Terry both have template drawings which aren't on here, but if you ask maybe they will send to you. nideKer has posted templates here which I think also show Moglets in a different colour. When I did my pockets, I used those by nideKer but the problem is they are not to scale, so I also measured a local club table that I liked and based my own template on both. This is just my opinion and findings...a tough corner pocket (drop width..."B" on nideKer's original attachment) is between around 80-83mm, and a tough middle around 90-95mm. For the cushion curve start on corners, add around 20mm on each side. So the width between cushions at where the curve begins is around 120mm ("A" on nideKer's original attachment) For middle it is around double the pocket width, so 180-190mm. Most important is the angle of the curve..if you want it to be a tough opening think if it as the angle of a tennis ball (if easy it would be more like an LP). I used a compass, and connected point A to point B on both sides using the smallest radius possible. Hope this helps..I am happy with the results.

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  • Redshift
    replied
    Tough is the only way I would want it. Where can I find the tournament size dimensions? Thanks.

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  • tcollick
    replied
    Yep, sorry if that sounded confusing. I understand that its a 10footer.. for which fullsize pockets and fullsize balls are the standard...all I meant is that there are a lot of variations for fullsize pockets, so you probably want the template based on how tough or easy you want the table to play.

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  • Redshift
    replied
    Thank you. I am planning on purchasing a 10' table later this spring. I unfortunately cannot fit a 12' into the room without cramping the shots. When I decide on a builder, I will want to be sure they are using the correct template.

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  • tcollick
    replied
    Like Snookerpoolman (who is a pro table fitter and fine chap to boot) says on http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ad.php?t=23078 , I think the norm for 10ft is the same as 12ft with regards to pocket openings. But you will see by this thread that this varies greatly within full size tables from "WSA Tournament cut" through to "make everyone feel like a pro pockets like buckets cut". I changed mine from the latter to (closer) to the former, and its definately more rewarding even tho I miss a few...ok...loads.

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  • Redshift
    replied
    A newbie question: are the pocket dimensions different for 10' vs 12' tables? I wouldn't think so but this looks like the group to ask.

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  • anu11
    replied
    hey moglet,, could u send me the drawings of the pocket?

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  • tcollick
    replied
    Hi everyone,

    I am having my cushions and at the same time pocket size redone. (sorry Terry!)
    Using Moglets and nideKer's templates (thanks guys) I have managed to work out what is required for corner pockets based on a pocket width of 82mm (3 1/5"). For this I will use B = 82mm (pocket width at drop) A = 120mm (width between start of curve between cushions). The distance between A and B is around 40mm.
    With these dimensions I'm hoping to have close to tournament pockets. (rather than the very forgiving "home" pockets I have now on which the cushions are not parallel but open and pots go in even if missed on near or far jaws).
    Please let me know if I've gone horribly wrong here with the calculations!

    However I was hoping someone could help me out with the middle pockets.
    I read that the standard is 4 inches, but is that from where the cushions meet the pocket drop?, or from the very end of the cushions?

    On some tables I think this is irrelevent because both are the same, but on the one I use (a riley) the cushions meet the drop before the cushion ends, so the width here is wider then at the end of the cushions.

    Sorry if it all sounds confusing, and thanks in advance

    Note added: For middles I ended up using 95mm (3 3/4") for A , and 190mm (7.5") for B (distance between curve start on cushions either side of pocket). The curve is quite narrow..more like a tennis ball rather than a dinner plate. Conclusion...tough...brush the near knuckle and theres no chance of it going in...but very satisfying nailing the pink.
    Last edited by tcollick; 24 February 2010, 03:55 PM. Reason: update

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  • Terry Davidson
    replied
    The B&SCC function has been taken over by the IBSF for international side and I guess the EASB for England as the B&SCC used to run England too. The EASB and your association would report to the IBSF on snooker and English billiards matters

    Terry

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  • moglet
    replied
    Originally Posted by nideKer View Post
    sorry for the offtop, but what is B&SCC? I can`t find any information about this organisation.
    Billiards & Snooker Control Council, apparently went bankrupt but used to be the Governing Body:

    B&SCCBadge.jpg

    http://www.eaba.co.uk/mags/bqr/1992/04/editorial.html

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  • nideKer
    replied
    sorry for the offtop, but what is B&SCC? I can`t find any information about this organisation.

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  • moglet
    replied
    nideKer,

    I've put a B&SCC main template set onto your drawings, the corner is a near perfect match, the middles don't conform to any of the three types. The B&SCC are in green.

    Your drops would be unusual on a UK table, to get to the WPBSA template from a club type table the slate is normally built out with a suitable resin and reformed with a much sharper edge.

    Last edited by moglet; 30 August 2009, 10:50 PM.

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